B230FT Operating Temp Range

TLR Happy operating temperatures for a B230FT?

1995 940T, auto, B230FT. Bone Stock.

Car runs great, had a leaky water pump, a cracked/failing coolant res, etc. Everything replaced, and new.

At length:
I bought one of those laser infrared thermometers, and poked the water neck on the head... it was right at 200 degrees, poked the outlet of the water pump, 208. Block was about 200, between 195 and 200. This is after a five mile drive home. Gauge on the dash is perfectly dead center. I don't trust Volvo temp gauges since they all have some sort of compensator circuit so the gauge doesn't move. Nearly lost a P2 car to that dumb BS.

If you have the 92 degree thermostat that seems fine to me.

Ultimately you need to be sure that the oil is warm enough to work, and to evap the water/fuel/whatever out of itself.

I'm trying to remember the thermostat temps rn though I want to say they were like... 82 87 92? Someone will surely know... or look it up.

That is indeed the thermostat that I have.

I was thinking that 87C thermostat is specified for B230FT.

The 92C thermostat is for winter up in the North. I see that you are in FL. You would want to use the 82C thermostat or the stock temp of 87C lummert mentions. I've used the 82C all year round here for many years and it helps have things get a little less heat baked in the engine compartment as well as have a cooler running engine.

Surely, but it's well within operating range, at those temps, right? I also have an e-fan. I've only heard it kick on twice. I feel like I read they don't even kick on until 215F? That seems so high.

I'm in Raleigh and also have a 92C because that's what those clods had in stock when I needed it.

Based on the useless gauge, it does run hotter than my 87 with the 87 did.

My IR temps are about what yours are though and I'm +T... I'd think you'll be fine right up to the moment when you aren't.

It is too hot for my liking and is not a choice I would make but it isn't out of spec because as mentioned it is the temp range of that thermostat. It is important to know that you are going to put more stress on a cooling system with a bunch of plastic parts in it. It is especially helpful to use a cooler thermostat if you are going to use a/c a lot.

I think I will probably go down to an 87C thermostat, just to keep it a little happier. Hopefully this is the end of my worry. I suspect it won't be. I think i may install an aux temp gauge that actually responds in real time..

Vernet or Wahler thermostat.

dl242gt said:

The 92C thermostat is for winter up in the North. I see that you are in FL. You would want to use the 82C thermostat or the stock temp of 87C lummert mentions. I've used the 82C all year round here for many years and it helps have things get a little less heat baked in the engine compartment as well as have a cooler running engine.

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I too have been happy with the 180-189 thermostat.

Hotdoggin said:

Surely, but it's well within operating range, at those temps, right? I also have an e-fan. I've only heard it kick on twice. I feel like I read they don't even kick on until 215F? That seems so high.

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Yeah and it’s stupid. I can idle ~185-195 all day long in the summer with the ac blasting. I use a 180 stat and a NEW aisin fan clutch, rad, etc.

dl242gt said:

It is too hot for my liking and is not a choice I would make but it isn't out of spec because as mentioned it is the temp range of that thermostat. It is important to know that you are going to put more stress on a cooling system with a bunch of plastic parts in it. It is especially helpful to use a cooler thermostat if you are going to use a/c a lot.

Click to expand...

Again I agree. I think you should switch to a lower temp stat as well as a 10 psi cap from a 240. It shouldn’t boil over unless you’re already getting hot. I have never seen mine boil over and it’s essentially a stock turbo car with an even smaller radiator than yours.

Fwiw every 7/9 driver ever should switch to a 10 psi cap. It was stupid on volvos part to switch to the 20+psi cap especially considering the weak points in these are the heater core and heater control valve. It is very unnecessary to bring the boiling point that high IMO.

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