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Old 09-06-2019, 08:15 PM   #1
xDread92x
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Default Volvo 240 M47 Drivetrain

Decided to go ahead and make a new thread.

So for a while now the gearshift has been super wobbly and even at times going uphill in 1 or 3 the tranny will even come out of gear from the movement. I figured without a doubt my guibo was shot but after further assessment i saw minimal cracks and when grabbing the shaft to check play at guibo, it was solid. Ill post pics for you guys opinion. UPDATE** (zooming in on the pics guibo cracks seem alittle more significant. Ive thoroughly looked into it and the guibo seems expensive and hard to get a good reliable one..not junk)

https://ibb.co/rs7807T
https://ibb.co/BN0GyRc

The engine mounts and tranny mount have been replaced and the center bushing is still solid with little play. Over time i have felt the difference in the drivetrain. I have been dealing with clunks and over time i have felt the loss of power and pull. Definite instability in the driveshaft. (I replaced TAB and still got clunk and “whirl sound” so definite ujoint, everything’s s been replaced except panhard and ujoints)

After further assessing and measuring the rear ujoint at differential seemed solid for the most part and measured 3” i believe, not the larger 3-3/16”

The middle ujoint had significant play but everything was still intact, retaining clips and no caps pushing through uneven, etc. The measurement for this was the smaller 2 5/8”

At this point i feel the middle u joint is all that needs replacing. Since i will be removing the whole assembly..the ujoints and center bushing may be all I replace as it makes the most sense.
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Old 09-06-2019, 10:09 PM   #2
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I think Lemforder sells a quibo. There is also a BMW one for the M5 that fits but it will be expensive. I haven't had any problems with the aftermarket ones. The only thing wrong I've noticed is they don't last as long. But that is applicable to everything rubber nowadays. Since the forumula changed over time you replace all the rubber mounts much sooner than when these cars were new.

I would suggest you replace the quibo, and both ujoints. The rear ujoint may not have play. But they dry up inside and make noise and cause vibratioin when that happens. I would replace both ujoints and make sure the driveshaft bearing spins freely without play.
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Old 09-06-2019, 10:57 PM   #3
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A possible nightmare i could also be looking at is the potential of my differential leaking and needing to replace that seal. I should have taken a pic to show.

Can anyone speak on the meyle or MTC ipd flex joints?

Thanks
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Old 09-09-2019, 01:36 AM   #4
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...Nzuk8Skg%3D%3D



Rock auto lists 2 more selections if you enter BMW 1983 533i(it cross references the same as the URO part for the 240 and the same URO part is listed for both BMW and Volvo)
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:43 PM   #5
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Fitment and all is exact for M47?
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Fitment and all is exact for M47?

If you're referring to the Guibo(aka flex joint), I compared my BMW Guibo to the Volvo 240
Guibo and they look identical.

But make sure you cross reference to be safe
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Old 09-09-2019, 02:38 PM   #7
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The pinion seal is a cheap seal and easy to replace.
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:20 PM   #8
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Dl242 thats the diff seal right?
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Dl242 thats the diff seal right?
Yes, the pinion seal and the gasket on the back cover usually take care of those leaks.
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:27 PM   #10
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Cool. Im attempting u joints tomorrow. Hopefully local parts store has my u joints for center and rear
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Old 09-11-2019, 03:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post

Some of the Italians in my family think the spelling matters if you're searching the webs.

Uff da ...never knew...thanks for the clarification



* When I look at my flex joint for the 240(m47) it looks exactly the same as the spare for the BMW 528/533. Make sure you compare and measure.
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Mattik View Post
Uff da ...never knew...thanks for the clarification
No criticism intended.

I recall getting "guages" for real cheap on ebay before they clued their search software into the common misspellings. Have no idea if the dude at Autozone would call it a "gweebo" or a "joobo". But I have heard (no personal experience) the BMW part is identical.
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:30 AM   #14
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So local parts store is saying their system tells them u joints are the same size in all areas but i know thats not correct.

I can visually see the center joint is smaller??

Has anyone got u joints from local parts stores and had success?

Really need to know asap
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:58 AM   #15
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Hopefully not a derail - but does anyone just switch to single piece just to bypass all the headaches of reviving an old 2 piece with poor aftermarket parts?
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbochimp View Post
Hopefully not a derail - but does anyone just switch to single piece just to bypass all the headaches of reviving an old 2 piece with poor aftermarket parts?
Yes but that conversion has it's own set of problems, usually starting with an expensive rebalance and ending with it hitting the seatbelt anchor weld nuts, and or back of the tunnel.
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Old 09-10-2019, 01:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbochimp View Post
Hopefully not a derail - but does anyone just switch to single piece just to bypass all the headaches of reviving an old 2 piece with poor aftermarket parts?
The only headache I've had from refurbishing the stock driveshaft is from not eating during the day while working on it. Seriously, it's not a bad job and the car really benefits from the work.

Re the ujoints. I'm pretty sure the two ujoints are the same size on my 93 wagon. They are the medium size ones. 3".
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Old 09-10-2019, 02:56 PM   #18
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Yea so i got the driveshaft up to the parts store and they measured the ujoints finalizing they are in fact the same size. It was hard for me to get the correct measurements on the yolk so i was unsure.

I really feel my entire drivetrain needs refreshing. Guibo and center support bushing.

The older gentleman who looked at my ujoints said he really didnt feel much skip or rough movement on the joints, stating they may not be as bad and he believes potentially alot of my movement and issues could be coming from the bad center bushing, which is possible.

I also have noticed ATON of slop in my shifter with crusty housing bushings (the long bolts that hold those bushings on the bracket and definite shifter play. It may be wise to go ahead and replace shifter linkage bushings etc. while the guibo will be out (which im told can be a PITA)
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:01 PM   #19
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...Okay otto mattik i ordered the bmw guibo you referenced. Hopefully it fits.. i was told the only possible issue is that the thicker guibo affects the bolts and length. Hopefully i can still use original bolts with no issue

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Old 09-12-2019, 04:05 AM   #20
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LOL...

Well I checked Rock Auto and the URO part number is the same CA7575, interesting that for a 92 Volvo 240/m47 they only list the URO part, yet for an 83 BMW 528e 5spd(Getrag 260 I believe) it lists the URO part CA7575, and two others: Beck Arnley 12208435 and SKP 935403
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:33 AM   #21
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What do you concur otto?
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:22 PM   #22
dl242gt
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That Beck Arnley number is a volvo part number.
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Old 09-12-2019, 02:06 PM   #23
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The bmw guibos are the same unless you order the M5 racing bmw guibo. It is a wee bit thicker stronger. Will probably still work also people have used them on volvos. All the other regular bmw guibos are the exact same size as the volvo ones. Thickness. In the past the stock volvo guibo's and the bmw ones are the same but they did look a little bit different in the moldings of them. But dimensionally they are the same. Who knows what they are selling nowdays new for guibos. I don't, but I've used both types in the past BMW and volvo and they both fit perfect and work if you install them correctly is the trick. The bolts have to be inserted the right way with the nuts on the other side should be arrows on the guibo to know which way the bolts go. Three one way, other three the other way.
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Old 09-12-2019, 02:25 PM   #24
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Okay so the bmw guibo that otto referenced and I bought finally came in.

THE ONLY difference is that the center opening that goes onto the shaft is a wee bit bigger. The bolt patterns line up the same. The guibo is bolted and secured to the 6 bolts, so honestly i dont believe the bigger center opening will cause any issues. The smaller one wasnt snugg on the center shaft guibo opening anyway
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:43 PM   #25
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So UPDATE...

The last few days of work was okay, but the results are so so. The drivetrain feels a lot more solid but now I have an unbalanced vibration that I didn’t have before.

Im not new to drivetrain work. I made sure the drivetrain arrows were together. Im also pretty sure I installed the guibo correctly.

I almost wonder if the larger center hole of the bmw guibo is causing the imbalance. So pretty much a fail, not totally but doing all that work and having to re-do it all is a pain.

I also didn’t spend $70 on the guibo for next day shipping to deal with this. Ive already missed work and school this week so idk im going to have to drive it as it is until I can get it figured out
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