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Old 08-05-2019, 04:13 PM   #1
matt b
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Default P1800 restoration - early Jensen car

I don't do catchy titles, great social media posts or regular updates so bear with me.

1311atpickup

Volvo P1800, VIN 1311, type 18394 VA, making it a pre-March 1962 Jensen built car. Gearbox would be an unusual M40 and not an M41 with overdrive. (source: http://volvo1800pictures.com/from_ye.../1961_1962.php

Bought this car out of LA in October 2018. On the surface, the seller seemed knowledgeable and legitimate. Reality bit hard when I had to bicker with me until late May to finally get the car to HiPerformance Auto in Torrance, CA.

E194E124-6084-401E-A7A8-3C24EEC97403

Things got ever grimmer when Eric explained that the car came in with no hood, no grill surround, and with over 20 lbs of rat feces spread out over the interior and engine compartment.

%IRg57jqT6qGKt5%OhESVA

I was traveling and couldn't communicate with the seller beyond the odd text message every 3-4 days. I felt awful that Eric and Ian had this health hazard on their hands.

Fast foward to late June and I made arrangements to have the car brought to me in Tucson.

593B1966-FEB9-4233-9622-3F2571C07D22

FC7A3CBD-88C9-44D1-AC41-5CE9AA83C25F

Here it sits next to 6501, the 1964 I picked up last summer. 6501 needs extensive rust repair and is currently on a rotisserie. Buddy and I are welding panels as time allows.

A1267883-C7D7-4AB5-B8B0-544CD54CEA09

Eric thought that only media blasting would truly rid the car of any rat feces and associated issues, and it's exactly what we did. Local company hauled it off, blasted it and gave me a clean, poop free shell:

X6hvGZ2vTkqTeArnWahauQ

Media blasting reveals surprises, 1311 was no exception...

IMG_3865
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Old 08-05-2019, 04:22 PM   #2
matt b
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1311 is a red 70 car, according to its VIN plate. I couldn't find a suitable panel on the car but 6501 had this splash panel painted in the correct color:

58587035100__20314725-18E0-46BB-8271-D3C26498EBDD

I'm assuming that when Volvo took production over from Jensen, some panels had been pre-painted and were used as-is. (6501 is a white car)

I started collecting parts, cleaning up others and made a little progress:

wheels:
58543872193__6DF9F7FE-4BFC-458F-B169-00B6592CB322

The wheel color is based on a few factory pictures from 1961 and 1962 showing what the wheels looked like underneath the early Jensen hubcaps.

Worked on the rear end, cleaning up grime and other issues and re-flaring brake lines to accept the 1965-1968 wheel cylinders.

UUldm009Roe4ErCq62R5eg

Engine cradle/front cross member/front end:

OclUhmmGTAufMvIHD9BsOA

Pretty sure the color should be black on that part but it's already powdercoated and I don't have it in me to have it re-done.

Rhys from Island Automotion did the carbs, confirmed as early 60's carbs (based on their tags)

fullsizeoutput_d

According to literature, the early Jensen cars had tons of production issues and panel fitment was amateur-ish. So Jensen used lead to hide flaws and 1311 is a prime example of that:

58665978556__8C372069-2699-4B31-9945-FD4F8500CCE7

I will take a picture of 6501 in the same area, there's barely any lead at the seam.

That's it for now. I'll grab pictures of the dash soon, as well as the body repairs. I'm waiting for the temps to drop a little bit before welding in my garage. It's hard to have a hood on when it's 105-110F in my garage...
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Old 08-05-2019, 04:28 PM   #3
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My, if I didn't know better I'd say you are restoring an English car...
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Old 08-05-2019, 06:25 PM   #4
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Good progress on this one so far. I saw it in person at HiPerf - Ian and Eric told me about some of the grief you'd experienced and I saw that mountain of poop for myself. Didn't realize the car came from the seller who has had a handful of 1800s and 544s listed for ages on LA craigslist. I recognize that first pic! Up north of Santa Clarita, right? Did he seriously remove the hood and grille surround before shipping the car to you?
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:40 PM   #5
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Good progress on this one so far. I saw it in person at HiPerf - Ian and Eric told me about some of the grief you'd experienced and I saw that mountain of poop for myself. Didn't realize the car came from the seller who has had a handful of 1800s and 544s listed for ages on LA craigslist. I recognize that first pic! Up north of Santa Clarita, right? Did he seriously remove the hood and grille surround before shipping the car to you?
That's the guy, good ole crooked Charles. He has had his ad flagged so many times, and he keeps trying to put it back up. Owns a pet store in Beverly Hills but keeps his cars in Santa Clarita.

I don't know the specifics on the hood, but I know it was supposed to be there (and he acknowledged it). The back window is also missing, but was there when it was loaded so I'm assuming it flew off at some point. The grill surround, he says wasn't supposed to ever be there.

Eric and Ian were amazing, and continue to be very involved with the car. The M40 slated to go in the car was rebuilt by them, and the car will go back to Torrance once it's put back together.
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:34 PM   #6
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Man, that sucks to hear you were jerked around. I've never talked to that guy myself but figured something was fishy based on the sheer volume of ads and the ambiguity around which cars he is actually offering for sale. It's obvious he's got a big stash of iron... so represent each car accurately and sell to the highest bidders - WTF is wrong with people?

Looking forward to seeing more shiny parts in your thread. The wife and I had a '66 1800S a few years ago that really needed a complete restoration, but we were on a budget and just trying to enjoy it as-is. Ian & Eric helped me get that thing running & driving so sweetly before we sold it. Major body issues but it was fun to drive. You are working with the right guys!
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:54 PM   #7
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Really looking forward to following this project!
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:20 PM   #8
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Thanks, definitely stoked on this car. I'm trying to get the details right without losing sight of the larger project and the time needed to complete it.

A shop had done rust repair on the last Amazon I owned, and they may be involved in getting some of the panels repaired/replaced on this one. Rear floors and the bottom of the rear quarters need help. The driver's fender had no splash guard so it rotted from the inside out. Thankfully, everything is fairly simple to replace.
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Old 08-06-2019, 02:04 PM   #9
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Did you buy Matt's house?
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Old 08-06-2019, 03:59 PM   #10
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Did you buy Matt's house?
I did not. Person who owns it was someone out of Phoenix, I haven't talked to Matt's widow or Roy's widow (Matt's partner at the yard, and owner of the red 122S I did) in over a year so I am not sure where those parts went.

I am currently working out of my garage and looking for a shop in Tucson. Preferably north of Speedway, and east of Country Club. I may have something lined up, things are getting way too crammed at the house and I don't like having helpers come up to my house. I'd love to buy the old Revolvstore building but I can't swing that much coin.
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:25 PM   #11
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Your garage just looked a lot like his.
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Old 08-08-2019, 12:05 PM   #12
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Congratulations on now owning both a Jenson and the 1964. It appears you are going to restore the Jenson to factory original condition? How is it rust wise?
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Old 08-08-2019, 12:36 PM   #13
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Congratulations on now owning both a Jenson and the 1964. It appears you are going to restore the Jenson to factory original condition? How is it rust wise?
The Jensen is rust free, especially when compared to the 64. The 64 sat in a field in MN between 1972 and 2016, so you can imagine what that did to the undercarriage.

The only spots of rust that will be removed next week are:

-the rear floors. Doing full replacements on these.

-the trunk floor panel has some rust in two small spots but not enough to warrant replacing the entire thing. So we will cut out and weld what's needed.

-the driver's fender at the bottom has some rust. This was probably from the lack of splash guard. There is a dent in it that will be cut out when the rusty portion is replaced, I'm assuming it's why the splash guard wasn't re-installed. It probably didn't fit anymore since they Bondo'ed over the dent instead of beating it out.

All in all, the car is amazing straight and rust free.
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:28 PM   #14
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Little bit of progress made. I am doing some of the welding with the help of a friend who is more experienced than I am.

Some of it is easy (floors need love)

IMG_0122

Some of it will be turned over to a local shop, given the angles and multiple panels coming together:

IMG_0123

IMG_0121

I just ordered both panels from VP, along with the glass this car and my other one needed.

Engine is coming along and should be ready sometime next week.

IMG_0120

Gas tank will need to be replaced, I pulled approximately 8 gallons of this stuff:

IMG_0125

IMG_0124

It's basically oily water at this point. I didn't try to ignite it or test it, but it wasn't great news. Lots of rust.
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:37 PM   #15
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Some of body work being done here involves pulling dents out and making sure that panels are straight. I have a simple dent puller from HF and it works well.

IMG_0097

Then fill the holes with a quick weld and sand down.

IMG_0099


Paint has been more problematic than expected. The panel I scanned couldn't give us a good read. It's old laquer paint and it is a giant spider web and full of blisters. We tried matching it, I shot a quick section:

IMG_0101

Close but not quite there.

Got a little annoyed with the temperatures in the garage this week (we hit 109 on multiple days so the garage can easily see 120 F) and decided to finish up the rear axle work

IMG_0103

Replacing old lines with fresh ones, aiming for clean bends. I love the Eastwood brake line flaring tool. Worth the purchase.

IMG_0104

The front calipers were a mess. Lots of rust, a bleed nippled that needed to be drilled out, etc...

IMG_0111

IMG_0112

IMG_0114

IMG_0118

Here is the other side after soaking in Evaporust and receiving fresh seals and pistons.

IMG_0105

IMG_0107

IMG_0106

IMG_0108

I wanted to keep the original front calipers. Pre-64's are hard to find but since I have the correct pads, this will help me keep the car accurate.
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Old 08-22-2019, 05:00 PM   #16
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Iíll post the formula used on my 70 later tonight. Iím assuming yours is 46 cherry red as well and that the color stayed more or less consistent over years. We used unpainted original from under trunk lid and got a very close match.
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Old 08-22-2019, 06:24 PM   #17
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hope this can be of some help:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

I don't have any photos of this but the original chassis number plate (whatever the hell the plate is called that is mounted next to the data plate) still has the original paint on it. When it was cleaned up and put back on the car it shows that the match to the original 1970 code 46 paint is nearly dead on.

Last edited by didenpx; 08-22-2019 at 06:29 PM..
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:15 PM   #18
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Thanks. 70 Red is earlier than the 46 color code and slightly darker. I had some 46 mixed and it's a brighter red (I did an Amazon in 46 red, I love the color).

I'm going to try to match a chip again tomorrow.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:34 PM   #19
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Careful with the brake calipers. I practiced rebuilding a caliper by separating the halves and then reassembled them. Not sure where I went wrong buy the leaked from the 4 bolts.
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:10 PM   #20
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Careful with the brake calipers. I practiced rebuilding a caliper by separating the halves and then reassembled them. Not sure where I went wrong buy the leaked from the 4 bolts.
That sucks.

These are easier:

IMG_0105

IMG_0106

The two halves are only sharing fluid through a hard line that runs from the top of one half to the top of the other half. As long as the seals are good (and they're new), I should be OK. Post 1963 calipers have the two halves linked through a couple of small holes that require a rubber gasket to seal properly.

IMG_0111
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:28 PM   #21
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Started on the body panel replacements. Thanks to a friend of mine who is a great welder, we made significant progress in just a few hours today. I guess welding for the AF for 10+ years doesn't hurt.

Driver's side rear floor. I will finish welding it in, and will cut a small strip to finish the rear portion of it where the existing metal is still a little too thin. The rear floors are the only significant rust, everything else will be just simple patches.

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97oQP7oPRY2HfYJp2HinPA

fullsizeoutput_1375
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:35 PM   #22
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I'm not very good at updating threads.

Been putting in roughly 4-5 hours a day on this thing, as my schedule allows. Friend who's more comfortable with a welder puts in a good 20 hours/week. It's coming along.

Did the floors and found rust on an area of the frame I would have found in 2-3 weeks... Glad we caught it.

58925543533__51C0286E-6E58-465F-883D-B4F3AC292005

Had a spare frame section from VP already here so cut it out where it connects to the frame in the rear and connected it underneath the passenger feet.

58949253700__2EC0F7D5-B4E8-4D94-A1A0-E3665D402DC9

Not the prettiest welds on the inside but it's rock solid and smooth on the underside.

Addressed the battery box which was rusty and had issues in the front, where it connects to the wheel well.

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W1P05uMqSkybD0nfknZJLQ

I will go over the welds and seam-seal the entire thing. I have no desire in seeing this car rust again, ever.
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:42 PM   #23
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Pulled the quarter panel on the driver's side. The car had been hit hard in the driver's rear corner.

Early indication of a Bondo sculpture:
FC7A3CBD-88C9-44D1-AC41-5CE9AA83C25F

Oh yeah, that's how you fix it!
IMG_3866

Except it's not fixed....
IMG_0121

IMG_0123

So we cut out the booty and the side, knowing that VP-Autoparts' panels were made on the original tooling. They're OE, many, many years later.

Just draped on, but you can see how the left side droops a little from the impact.

58932017938__4EEC898A-B245-4993-BB64-6BE59D2A6489

2 hours of grinding welds later, we have this.

7Y3aBF2MRkGYvIPM6k5lCA

Look Ma, more surprises....
58992315709__1E2D0094-8096-4DF1-84C0-B92D1FBF4A0B



20 mins later, we have this:
jPrpJdUwTBihAX9QCk4TMg

Quick run with the MIG welder and a sanding disc. We'll TIG it over the weekend to give it a little more meat.

Threw the panel on to test fit it:
Yr5HdXDfQp++KNzFLdvmPw

That took us to Wednesday evening....
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:52 PM   #24
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Nice work. I would go over that entire inner panel with some POR15 before welding on the 1/4 panel.
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Old 09-14-2019, 12:38 AM   #25
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Nice work. I would go over that entire inner panel with some POR15 before welding on the 1/4 panel.
Good advice but Iíd imagine this isnít his go at body work and metal fabrication...
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