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Old 07-19-2019, 03:02 PM   #26
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I grabbed the tester and gauge on Amazon last night so I'll have them here this weekend. I figured I might as well keep them for future use.

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Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
A vacuum gauge can measure the fitness of vacuum line from intake to IGN-MOD, when measured at both ends...two tests, one at intake, and the other and end of vacuum line.
That is my exact plan for the gauge.

Thanks for the info on timing advance, I'll give that page a read.
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:19 PM   #27
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I'd have to visually look, but on throttle body, there may be two ports...one for emission, and the other for IGN-MOD. When engine is at base idle, there should not be a vacuum on IGN-MOD's port on throttle body.

IIRC, from years ago, on distributor based engines, when doing timing, pulling vacuum line off was a prudent measure...so timing was set with no vacuum going to distributor (or IGN-MOD).

I've not examined vacuum ports on throttle body, but I assume the emission port gets vacuum when engine starts up. It's function is to suck gas fumes from charcoal canister.

Hence, each vacuum port may "suck" differently.
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:45 PM   #28
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I was able to get everything tested this weekend. I put the vacuum pump on the Ignition Module and it held 15in Hg without loosing any pressure. I also noticed a cracked line on the vacuum pump for the cruise control so I fixed that.

Vacuum at Intake Manifold

Vacuum at Ignition Module


The vacuum line for the Ignition Module is located on the intake manifold on my car. The throttle body has both ports used by the charcoal canister. I've noticed it's that way on friend's 240 as well. The line itself doesn't seem to have enough length to get to the throttle body.



I am hearing what sounds like a rushing of air in near the head next to the fuel rail. I'm not sure if this is just the sound of fuel rushing through the rail or if I have a leak somewhere. I checked all the lines and they seem good, I also sprayed some starter fluid around everything to check for leaks. I am going to pull the breather box out and inspect it. Video for sound reference below.

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Old 07-27-2019, 08:12 PM   #29
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I've been out of town for a week....

If knock sensor is working...ask others how to test...one might set timing to 15°

IGN-MOD's vacuum sensor appears to be shot, if this Volvo test indicates a failure.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:18 AM   #30
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I picked up an Ignition Module from a board member and it didn't seem resolve the cut out issue. I have not checked yet to see if the timing advance is working with this Ignition Module. I will look up how to test the knock sensor.

When the weather gets a little cooler I'll get back to working on the car.
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:04 AM   #31
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I noticed that with the timing set to 15 degrees or higher there is still a cutout but the return to normal is much quicker, only drops about 300rpm. With it below 15 degrees the car cuts out at 2000rpm, like "normal", then drops to ~1000 rpm before it runs to normal.

I checked the wiring on the knock sensor and in doing so I noticed the spade on the knock sensor moves around when touched... One would assume that's not normal. I took a picture of the sensor and it looks like the soldering has broken up.

I am going to grab the knock sensor from a LH 2.2 240 wagon that's at the yard, tomorrow or Sunday. It seems the LH 2.2 knock sensors are hard to come by new.

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Old 08-04-2019, 11:56 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchb0x View Post
...knock sensor...spade on the knock sensor moves around..
1985 LH 2.2's knock sensor was specific to Vehicle Fitment: Volvo: 242 1983-84 | 244 1983-88 | 245 1983-88. ...Volvo 1317296...$125.00 @ IPD

Cross Reference - Doing quick searches, STANDARD MOTOR KS82 comes up at $150.00 price range.

I suspect someone got "physical" with your knock sensor...two hands should have been used...one to hold spade down, while other to remove terminal.
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:17 PM   #33
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So I replaced the knock sensor and nothing has changed... but I had a feeling that was going to be the case.

I set the timing back to factory and noticed that if I start up the car and rev it up so it cuts out and then set timing, once I turn off the car and start it up the timing is lower than what it was previously set at. Not sure if this is due to the cut out or just from me reving the car up and letting it idle before adjusting timing.

Still have not checked fuel pressure, I have been lagging on getting the testing equipment from a friend. I am going to try and get that done ASAP.
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:16 PM   #34
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Quote:
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...timing back to factory...turn off the car and start it up the timing is lower than what it was previously set at.....
Timing would be controlled via Chrysler Box....I'd have to review its pin-out, but if it is "aware" of engine temperature, this can change timing, or if LH 2.2 is "talking" to it.

Timing is suppose to be done with engine warm, as explained in TP 30432/2; here's a snapshot of instructions.

Older vehicles with a vacuum and mechanical advance, timing is changed by changes in vacuum and changes in RPM. Chrysler Box is doing both also, electronically. Google that TP, and look at charts
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:51 PM   #35
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Quote:
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timing back to factory...idle.
Never owned a vehicle with LH 2.2, but on schematic, the throttle position sensor (TPS) switch has a wire for "Idle Speed Adjustment Point." TPS does have a wire going to Chrysler box.

SEE: Setting Base Idle Specs and Mixture on Bosch LH2.2-Equipped Cars.

Needless to say, TPS must be set correctly. A tach is required to set idle correctly
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:11 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
Never owned a vehicle with LH 2.2, but on schematic, the throttle position sensor (TPS) switch has a wire for "Idle Speed Adjustment Point." TPS does have a wire going to Chrysler box.

SEE: Setting Base Idle Specs and Mixture on Bosch LH2.2-Equipped Cars.

Needless to say, TPS must be set correctly. A tach is required to set idle correctly
Thanks! I ordered some led diodes so I can make the tool needed so set the base idle after checking the O2 sensor.
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:35 PM   #37
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Led Test Light 999 5280
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:43 PM   #38
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"You don't really need the 750 ohm resistor, and its value certainly isn't critical to the function; just protects the LED if you drop the ECU end of the probe on a ground."
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:04 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
"You don't really need the 750 ohm resistor, and its value certainly isn't critical to the function; just protects the LED if you drop the ECU end of the probe on a ground."
I didn't bother to order the resistors after reading that. I ordered a pack of 100 led diodes so I should be good. I will just have to figure out what to use all the extra led lights on
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:53 PM   #40
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So I finally got the fuel pressure measured. Not sure if the idle pressure is within spec I will try to find a manual to get that information. All I did to when checking is hook up the gauge to the car and let it idle up to temp. I did check the fuel pressure when the car cuts out and it did not budge.

I also checked the voltage on the O2 sensor and it appears to be cycling within spec. I noticed that when I rev up the motor and it does the cut out the voltage on the O2 sensor drops to 0.00. I will try adjusting the AMM this weekend following that guide.

Fuel pressure at Idle


Fuel pressure with FPR unplugged


Fuel pressure after a few minutes of the car being turned off
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:45 PM   #41
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"At full throttle, manifold pressure is close to barometric, so the fuel pressure gauge reads about 2.5 bar (36 psi). At idle, absolute pressure in the manifold is about 0.3 bar (0.7 bar less than barometric). Now the manifold absolute pressure pushing the pressure regulator diaphragm is only 0.3 bar instead of 1 bar. The reduced manifold pressure on the diaphragm allows it to move away from the opening, returning more fuel to the tank, and dropping the gauge fuel pressure in the distributor pipe to about 1.8 bar (2.8 absolute). The relative pressure at the injector tip is still 2.5 bar (2.8 minus 0.3 absolute). That's why fuel delivery per injector is not affected by changes in the manifold absolute pressure."


1.8 bar = 26.1 psi
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Old 09-06-2019, 11:08 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchb0x View Post
tachometer will immediately jump to ~1200 RPM ... I can press the gas pedal all I want but the car doesn't respond until the RPM gets down to normal idle and then the car snaps back and drives just fine..I noticed yesterday the car feels as if its lurching when I'm cruising around in higher RPMs while the A/C is on.

Tach Test - Remove wires going to positive side of coil and tape them so they don't ground out, and hook a direct wire from the battery to this coil's post. Each vehicle requires a coil designed for that EFI (ignition side)...check coil's number and see if its for LH 2.2...might ohm spec it also.

Temp Sensor - I'd ohm check it....Volvo had two different temp sensors for EFI side...1984s is different from LH 2.4...don't know which sensor LH 2.2 used When I get a vehicle, that's the first thing that gets replaced. Generally, they tell EFI engine is colder than it is when they fail, which is not what you have reported (like a lean mixture).

Timing, throttle plate, and idle RPM must be set to OEM's spec...as they explain how to do it.

Last edited by 84B23F; 09-07-2019 at 01:45 PM..
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Old 09-07-2019, 01:46 PM   #43
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Correction Made - "Tach Test - Remove wire(s) going to positive side of coil and tape them so they don't ground out, and hook a direct wire from the battery to this coil's post."
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
Correction Made - "Tach Test - Remove wire(s) going to positive side of coil and tape them so they don't ground out, and hook a direct wire from the battery to this coil's post."
I will test this when I get a chance. The tach issue has been pretty intermittent and I haven't seen it in a while.


I pulled and stripped the wiring harness back to the firewall and replaced/repaired a couple wires. The wire for the cluster temp sensor and wire for the oil pressure sensor were degraded inside the harness. I also replaced the coolant temp sensor for the ECU with a bosch oem replacement as it was cheap.

So before doing all this I screwed up and applied power to the ground wire (blue/white) for the IAC when trying to adjust the MAF with the LED tool. I absentmindedly pulled into the wrong wire and I think I fried the IAC as the car died when I did so and would start and idle at like ~200rpm. I picked up an IAC from PnP from a LH 2.2 240.

When I got the car back together with the replacement IAC the car idled at ~1500 rpm. I gave the IAC a few delicate love taps and the idle dropped down where it should be. I had cleaned it with some carb cleaner but it might of still been a little sticky. After driving it around a bit Sunday the car is idling where it should and seems to run fine besides the cutout.

I noticed that when the IAC is unplugged the car does not cut out like it has been. With the IAC plugged back in the car cuts out on first start when rev'd to ~1900 rpm. Still only cutting out once and only after the car is started, does not happen again while running.

When I inspected the harness I did not see any other wires with degraded shielding or breaks. I've also swapped ECU's and ICU's previously and the cut out persists. Is there any other relays or anything that the IAC runs through that can be checked?
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Old 09-17-2019, 11:37 PM   #45
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Quote:
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I noticed that when the IAC is unplugged the car does not cut out like it has been.
......Still only cutting out once and only after the car is started, does not happen again while running.
IAC Unplugged - IAC (Idle Air Control) is for idling...once throttle is pressed downward, and if throttle switch is set correctly, IAC is not operational (no signal sent to IAC). Make sure your throttle switch is operational, as based upon OEM specs. Cutting out at 1900 RPM should have nothing to do with your IAC...your throttle plate is in control of air volume passing into intake.

Cutting Out - AMM and ECU's temp sensor determine amount of fuel going injectors.

I bought a 1990 240, parked it for several months, installed parts, and took injectors to injector shop for flow testing....it runs like it did when new.


So, try this: Techron® Complete Fuel System Cleaner
Techron® Named Best Fuel Additive in Autoweek's 2019 Readers' Choice Awards
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en...m-cleaner.html
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Old Yesterday, 09:27 PM   #46
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Quote:
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I noticed that when the IAC is unplugged the car does not cut out like it has been.
Footnote - IIRC, IAC's trigger signal is a Hz signal, which means an automotive grade multi-meter is required to examine a Hz signal.

If your electrical switch on throttle shaft is set correctly, once peddle is depressed, IAC becomes in-active.

Hence, one could check for and evaluate its Hz signal....but I doubt this is relevant. If IAC was working after peddle was depressed, logically, it would be doing it after engine was warmed up.
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