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Old 03-31-2010, 11:15 AM   #101
Redwood Chair
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Originally Posted by smokeyfan1000 View Post
Got lucky, I think. I found one brand of epoxy, in a spray can, with a good range of colors(not just beige white & black). Have you ever used "ZERO RUST" epoxy paints??
They had blue, & looks like it might match IPD blue fairly close. I got 2 cans coming.
Nope I haven't.

It's under car and the bars already have the correct coating on them.

I guess I'm missing something here?
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 03-31-2010, 01:39 PM   #102
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The new IPD sway bars are blue, as rest of my IPD suspension parts. The older IPD sways I have are the gold/cadmium color. I want it all to match. So painting the sways. Just to be "nit pickin'" good.
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Old 03-31-2010, 02:33 PM   #103
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See you at Pebble Beach?
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Old 03-31-2010, 02:42 PM   #104
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Not this year, I'll be to broke to go, due to all these parts. I'm just a nit pickin SOB.

I read to many Hot Rod Magazines when I was a kid, and evidently ,it has ruined me for life.

And Parents worry about kids veiwing porn. It's the car magazines they should not let kids read.
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:36 PM   #105
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I've got to say, the Redwood's project cars are just awesome to me. He takes a fleabag old Volvo and through some careful cleaning, preparation, and smart parts swaps makes a terrific looking very functional car in no time. Many kudos to you sir.
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:49 PM   #106
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I've got to say, the Redwood's project cars are just awesome to me. He takes a fleabag old Volvo and through some careful cleaning, preparation, and smart parts swaps makes a terrific looking very functional car in no time. Many kudos to you sir.
Thanks.
Actually I buy the nicest ones I can find.
So you know.......
I can get to work in the morning.
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:26 PM   #107
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Hey man, there is like a wire dangling underneath that 240.. It's gonna catch the car on fire!!!
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:33 PM   #108
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Hey man, there is like a wire dangling underneath that 240.. It's gonna catch the car on fire!!!
I deny any knowledge of that car!
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:40 PM   #109
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Never mind the OT gauge wire, you should see the sender. I killed it onna median. See my new Non perf & maint thread.
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:46 PM   #110
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Redwood, dos the IPD aluminum skid pan hang down lower than the OEM pasltic one? Does it magnify/act as a sounding board, any engine vibes or sounds?
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:35 PM   #111
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Redwood, dos the IPD aluminum skid pan hang down lower than the OEM pasltic one? Does it magnify/act as a sounding board, any engine vibes or sounds?
No it's quite a nice piece.

I put a 5" square of 1/2" plywood between it and the X member
so it doesn't get bent with the floor jack when I pick up the front end.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:44 PM   #112
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My plastic will break if I don't remove it before jacking. Since I'm lowering my 240, thought it might be a good idea to get the aluminum skid pan.
The plastic one is merely a "water/air guard" IMO.

Is aluminum one shaped just like the plastic one? As far as how far it hangs down/ground clearance, and all? Not lower to ground, I guess it's best to say?
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:45 PM   #113
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It's still a belly pan.
Skid pans are a bit more substantial.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:47 PM   #114
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Well, better thn plastic IMO.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:51 PM   #115
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Well, better thn plastic IMO.
So's the price.
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:27 PM   #116
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Tips for pulling the windshields off my 1800?
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:57 PM   #117
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Rear drivers side 1/4 window removal.
Seal is pried back,and propped up.
Feet push the glass out to a helper.
Once the bottom is out the window is pulled down and forward to keep the seal and the window together.

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Originally Posted by Sir Psycho View Post
Tips for pulling the windshields off my 1800?
Your glass is set in rubber seals like the rear 1/4 glass on a 145.
Except you want to push the top out first on a windshield.
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:28 AM   #118
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Got some stuff done today.

Scuffed the cowl inlet with scotch brite and wax and grease remover to clean tape residue,and surface rust on the bottom edges of the inlet vents.
Hit the bare metal several times with Metal Ready.
Cleaned the spray grease off the hinges with isopropyl alcohol,then windex [ammonia],soap and water,then rinsed with the hose.

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Old 04-02-2010, 01:42 AM   #119
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Thinking about taking the stainless window cladding off,stripping it with aircraft remover,and going 140 & early 240 brightwork style.
The main piece wouldn't release where it's curved.
I'll try again to see if I can get it off without damaging it.
Perhaps I should practice in the JY.

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Old 04-02-2010, 01:48 AM   #120
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Peeled the windlace for the hatch,removed the striker,and alcohol scuffed the jamb.
Went back over the body,and windshield opening to remove tar,and scuff marks.
Some days it doesn't look like anything happened at all.
Supper time.

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Old 04-02-2010, 11:38 AM   #121
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Slacker!
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Old 04-02-2010, 04:30 PM   #122
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You may have stated it, but what color are you going with?
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:57 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Your glass is set in rubber seals like the rear 1/4 glass on a 145.
Except you want to push the top out first on a windshield.
I tried exactly what you said and wedged little flathead screw drivers in there at the top of the windshield. When I tried pushing the top of the windshield it wouldn't budge.

Am I doing something wrong that I don't know of you think?
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:37 PM   #124
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Slacker!

Rain delay.
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:25 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Psycho View Post
You may have stated it, but what color are you going with?
Color change from # 42 bone white to # 189 arctic white.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Psycho View Post
I tried exactly what you said and wedged little flathead screw drivers in there at the top of the windshield. When I tried pushing the top of the windshield it wouldn't budge.

Am I doing something wrong that I don't know of you think?
Might be gooed in flip back the seals,and take a look.
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