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Old 04-12-2010, 10:26 PM   #151
Sir Psycho
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Is it difficult to align the doors?
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:38 PM   #152
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Is it difficult to align the doors?
Yes.
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Old 04-12-2010, 11:02 PM   #153
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Yes.
Joy.
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Old 04-12-2010, 11:12 PM   #154
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Joy.

Especially once you remove the hinges from the car,and lose the basic settings.
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Old 04-12-2010, 11:19 PM   #155
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Especially once you remove the hinges from the car,and lose the basic settings.
Yeah, well I guess it's just another thing I'll have to master
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:28 PM   #156
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82 245 GLT Paint 48
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:44 PM   #157
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..And it took 4 hours to remove that wiper grommet, oh veyy what a day!
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:48 PM   #158
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..And it took 4 hours to remove that wiper grommet, oh veyy what a day!
No 8 hours.
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:50 PM   #159
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How do we know he removed it?
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:31 AM   #160
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Painted the windshield pinch welds,and rear 1/4 window trays with Epoxy.
This is the stuff they paint bridges,and offshore oil platforms with.

82 245 GLT Paint 49
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:16 AM   #161
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Getting it ready for painting the door jambs.
Removing the doors one at a time to clean the sprayed on white lithium grease from the hinge areas from the mechanics that don't have an aircraft style pinpoint grease gun.

82 245 GLT Paint 50
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:22 AM   #162
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^ The photographic evidence is there.

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How do we know he removed it?
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:22 PM   #163
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This post is making me realize that I'm going to have to take the 145 off the road to do everything I want to do.

I'm going to pull the dash, there are so many leaks from behind it (body seams or windshield, not sure) that I'm sure the metal isn't in good shape back there. Windshield needs to be pulled and re-sealed. I've also been sitting on the parts to do the electric door locks. A good portion of the door hardware needs to be replaced (rotted window tracks). The rest of the hardware needs to be adjusted, cleaned, and re-greased. Rear quarter windows need to be pulled and seals replaced (you know this), and I'm sure the seams will need attention. I'm seeing signs of rot under the rain gutters. Driver front fender needs to be replaced (have a straight one already, yay $10 CL find). Rust holes in the passenger side doors.

It just needs to be stripped the rest of the way. I'm already driving it with no interior.

I guess I'll focus on getting the 444 on the road, in a "for now" fashion.
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:09 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by bmessina View Post
This post is making me realize that I'm going to have to take the 145 off the road to do everything I want to do.

I'm going to pull the dash, there are so many leaks from behind it (body seams or windshield, not sure) that I'm sure the metal isn't in good shape back there. Windshield needs to be pulled and re-sealed. I've also been sitting on the parts to do the electric door locks. A good portion of the door hardware needs to be replaced (rotted window tracks). The rest of the hardware needs to be adjusted, cleaned, and re-greased. Rear quarter windows need to be pulled and seals replaced (you know this), and I'm sure the seams will need attention. I'm seeing signs of rot under the rain gutters. Driver front fender needs to be replaced (have a straight one already, yay $10 CL find). Rust holes in the passenger side doors.

It just needs to be stripped the rest of the way. I'm already driving it with no interior.

I guess I'll focus on getting the 444 on the road, in a "for now" fashion.
It's really not that bad as long as you have another car to be able to drive during the time you're working on the 145. And keep in mind you can do more than one thing per day . I've been doing similar stuff on my 1800 and have just spent about an hour per day on it. It's fun (I think at least) and will make you appreciate the car more. I say go for it and don't hold back because you think it's too much work for you, unless of course it really is too much work i.e. rust.
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:55 PM   #165
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The Industrial Epoxy paint was still soft this morning when I put the car out in the sun.
Full cure time is a week at 50º and 25 minutes under the trisk lights at 200º
A couple of more hours in the sun and it felt pretty hard.

This is U-POL Fiberall filler.
Basically a fiberglass epoxy filler that bridges gaps and holes.
I was mixing it with the hardener at the ratios for bondo,and it was hardballing in about 7 minutes.


82 245 GLT Paint  51

Last edited by Redwood Chair; 04-16-2010 at 02:20 AM..
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:08 AM   #166
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I wasn't happy with the holes in the rear 1/4 window tray.
Here;
82 245 GLT Paint 31

I think they are for riveting the GL aluminum cladding trim on.
Not a good feature,nor is the fact that the tray itself is pitched back slightly to trap the water.

Last edited by Redwood Chair; 04-16-2010 at 02:21 AM..
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:14 AM   #167
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This is my favorite mud knife,nice and flexible it is actually a stainless wall paper knife.
Perfect to lay the U-POL in the pan,and pitch it back out.
Plus the fiberall is waterproof so it won't change shape or absorb water like bondo does.

82 245 GLT Paint  52
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:33 AM   #168
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A subtile pitch back out for the water,and no more holes.
2mm to zero this stuff is really nice to work with.

82 245 GLT Paint  53
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:44 AM   #169
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Here's the latest in sandpaper.
Dragonskin.
It is actually a wire screen with the abrasives bonded to it.
Fast cutting and no load, it seems to last forever.
The red 'sanding block' is actually a snippet of a bondo spreader.

82 245 GLT Paint  53

Last edited by Redwood Chair; 04-16-2010 at 02:23 AM..
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:14 AM   #170
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On to the 89.5+ flush glass rear window washer delete.
The wash nozzle is in the center of the tailgate up top,and has the water supply hose running across the tailgate door jamb,and into the door.
Kind of a messy system in my opinion.

The 82 already has a working system on the passenger side D pillar.
I noticed the fiberall was sticking to my knives like crazy.
In fact it is designed to bond to bare metal,and fill holes up to 3/8 ".
With a backing plate larger holes can be filled.
Unlike bondo this stuff can be laid on pretty thick,and remain stable.

Welding burns through and starts rust on the inside of a panel if you can't get to it and treat it.
The hole is coarse wire wheeled and punched in slightly to get a feathered contact area on the outside.

82 245 GLT Paint  54

Last edited by Redwood Chair; 04-16-2010 at 02:25 AM..
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:22 AM   #171
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What do you think of using epoxy to do filling and fairing instead of welding and using a filler putty? With the trim holes on the side of mine, Im considering filling them in with West System mixed with fairing fibers. Ive used it quite a lot on boats and liked it. And I have a ton of it....



Great progress by the way!
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:14 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by mavawreck View Post
What do you think of using epoxy to do filling and fairing instead of welding and using a filler putty? With the trim holes on the side of mine, Im considering filling them in with West System mixed with fairing fibers. Ive used it quite a lot on boats and liked it. And I have a ton of it....



Great progress by the way!
It will work if the material is designed to bond to metal.
I really should have cut some of that dragonskin gooed it and stuffed it on a screw for backing. The U-POL kept flopping in and required 2 applications. No big deal it was hardballing fast in the sun.
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:08 PM   #173
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
On to the 89.5+ flush glass rear window washer delete.
The wash nozzle is in the center of the tailgate up top,and has the water supply hose running across the tailgate door jamb,and into the door.
Kind of a messy system in my opinion.

The 82 already has a working system on the passenger side D pillar.
I noticed the fiberall was sticking to my knives like crazy.
In fact it is designed to bond to bare metal,and fill holes up to 3/8 ".
With a backing plate larger holes can be filled.
Unlike bondo this stuff can be laid on pretty thick,and remain stable.

Welding burns through and starts rust on the inside of a panel if you can't get to it and treat it.
The hole is coarse wire wheeled and punched in slightly to get a feathered contact area on the outside.

82 245 GLT Paint  54

I'd be really tempted to delete the wiper arm too, on that smooth looking flush glass unit.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:07 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Psycho View Post
It's really not that bad as long as you have another car to be able to drive during the time you're working on the 145. And keep in mind you can do more than one thing per day . I've been doing similar stuff on my 1800 and have just spent about an hour per day on it. It's fun (I think at least) and will make you appreciate the car more. I say go for it and don't hold back because you think it's too much work for you, unless of course it really is too much work i.e. rust.
I'm past the point of wondering if it's too much work. I love the car, I'm going to get it back to some form of glory. The big sticking point is as you mentioned, I don't currently have a 2nd functioning car. I'm going to transition over to that one for a bit, hopefully the engine isn't too bad off and I can get it back on the road with some carb work, brake rebuilds, complete fluid flushing, and a few rubber seals to keep out the weather.

You also have a good point in doing a little bit every day. Just an hour or so sounds like a good plan, as opposed to waiting for the weekend. Especially now that I have some light after I get off work.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:13 PM   #175
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Originally Posted by bmessina View Post
I'm past the point of wondering if it's too much work. I love the car, I'm going to get it back to some form of glory. The big sticking point is as you mentioned, I don't currently have a 2nd functioning car. I'm going to transition over to that one for a bit, hopefully the engine isn't too bad off and I can get it back on the road with some carb work, brake rebuilds, complete fluid flushing, and a few rubber seals to keep out the weather.

You also have a good point in doing a little bit every day. Just an hour or so sounds like a good plan, as opposed to waiting for the weekend. Especially now that I have some light after I get off work.
I agree do it piece at a time.
Keep it running and driving as long as you can.
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