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Old 08-27-2018, 09:00 AM   #51
MadDog_945
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:D yeah.. thought it would be wise, using a jig in the vise to not bend the **** out of it? ;)
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:37 AM   #52
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Nah, just a few pieces of plastic/wood so the teeth don't mar/scratch the surface. That's how I did the oval runners on my header

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Old 08-28-2018, 02:01 AM   #53
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did you put the tube through the holes and welded both sides or tight fit on the flange?
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:42 AM   #54
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Just welded it directly to the flange.

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Old 08-28-2018, 06:23 AM   #55
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cool
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Old 09-03-2018, 04:12 PM   #56
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please help me to position my turbo and flange..

i bought a hx35ii for a good price and thats the turbo i always wanted.. it is settled now ;)

i will post some pics tomorrow but until then id like to see some hx35 in the enginebay.

setup will be like 2 wastegates, one on each scroll directly before the flange so there will be not much room.. i would like to have it topmounted just for the looks but where ;) engine is tilted and it has water also. better to have it centered between 2-3 or like the rsi one far forward ?
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Old 09-04-2018, 02:08 AM   #57
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pics:
















I believe this is not the position at all i want it to be.. mh.. kind of indecisive..
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Old 09-05-2018, 02:35 AM   #58
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Maybe more like this?

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Old 09-05-2018, 07:11 AM   #59
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is there a cad model of an 533 head (16v) out there?
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Old 09-06-2018, 03:49 AM   #60
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Started to fiddle around with my bandsaw to get some decent cuts to fab a collector.. havent found the best way, but i got 2 scrolls welded together yesterday looking not that bad
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Old 09-06-2018, 05:42 AM   #61
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If you've never made a header/manifold before you will get way more experience by cutting op pieces of pipe & elbows and figuring it out then by drawing a cad model.
You did sone fabrication before on exhausts iirc, you will figure this one out also ;)
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Old 09-06-2018, 06:02 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
Started to fiddle around with my bandsaw to get some decent cuts to fab a collector.. havent found the best way, but i got 2 scrolls welded together yesterday looking not that bad
You can't say that and not post pictures!!!

BTW: Your cad model looks good, but the cylinder head flange is upside down for a top-mounted turbo

As far as positioning, I think where you put it next to the motor looks good, but definitely wait till you can mock-up in the car so you can place it as far back to the strut tower as possible. Otherwise you might have to do some impromtu mods with a hammer to get it in...

But these would also be fun to use
https://www.trick-tools.com/Icengine...ng-Systems-864

For a kit costing $1,400 you could just buy a 3D-Printer and make a bunch as you go for 20% of the price.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1831000 2.000"
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2053049 1.750"
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1649639 1.625"
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305656 1.500"

And for the downpipe and exhaust
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305581 3.000"
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1994896 2.500"

Last edited by JerryJS8; 09-06-2018 at 07:14 AM..
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Old 09-07-2018, 03:54 AM   #63
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Is this turbo going on your 240 or the 940? -hope for your sake it's the 940!
I fitted a turbo in a 240 & it was a nightmare- your turbo looks bigger than the one I have!
It's best to trial fit it in position in the engine bay. I didn't but took lots of measurements & fabbed it up on an engine on a stand. You tend to miss a lot of obstructions doing it that way - like the water pump/hoses, distrubutor & that pipe that goes from the water pump to the heater. I think there's a lot more room in the 940.
Have you seen any of "The Fabrication Series" on youtube? - he does a manifold for a forward facing turbo which gave me a few ideas. Trouble is he's made a few manifolds & makes it look too easy!
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Old 09-07-2018, 04:00 AM   #64
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yeah, i love his channel
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Old 09-11-2018, 04:07 AM   #65
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built myself a tool to form the collector tubes.. pics will follow

and i bought 309L filler to weld the pipes to the flanges..
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:49 AM   #66
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as promised ;)

The jig works really good actually.. you just have to make sure it is clamped down well in the jaws. Always reproduceable quality of the workpieces!













































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Old 09-12-2018, 03:41 AM   #67
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do you think it would make sense to tilt the 2 scroll like 5 or 10° to eachother? right now i dont really know how to weld the seams on the seperator thwart. Ot just cram them together straight and dip like crazy to shut them off each other? still no weld on the thwart then..
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:11 AM   #68
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I'd lean them away like you mention, it'd be a lot easier to get to your runners to weld them in the end.
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Old 09-12-2018, 06:04 AM   #69
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And would you weld the seams close on the inside? Without filler?
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:46 AM   #70
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Yes mate I would, not very easy with a standard TIG torch though, easier with a pencil style torch but it is doable. Nice work so far.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:25 AM   #71
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Nice jig. Gonna copy that style. My Kasto hacksaw makes mince meat of anything that's not clamped down solid.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:27 PM   #72
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thx! i just ran into a wall with the saw.. im not able under any circumstances to saw off a 10° with that wiggly vice from a 2-1 merge :/
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:02 AM   #73
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Looks very nice so far!
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Old 09-07-2019, 05:28 AM   #74
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https://prlmotorsports.com/115schedu...ngfixture.aspx

found a nice jig for cutting fittings.. i think i will spend the bucks!
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Old 09-10-2019, 08:41 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadDog_945 View Post
https://prlmotorsports.com/115schedu...ngfixture.aspx

found a nice jig for cutting fittings.. i think i will spend the bucks!
Or you could just buy this?

https://elmerracing.com/raceshop/bil...15sch10-detail

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