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Old 01-11-2019, 04:37 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Are you putting a whiteblock in your 940?

Getting it to fit involves poking 4 holes on the uprights of the core support and bending some thin sheetmetal 75 degrees. Hardly a drastic change. Just checked last night in fact
Yep, this. I went to Park Rose hardware and bought nice new isolators and bolted mine right in a few months ago.
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:46 PM   #52
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Here is my idea of an AC circuit built around my PWM heater fan and MS3X, with the 1993 diagram below. Feel free to chime in. I'm assuming that the sensor at the accumulator is a simple pressure switch and not a fancy variable signal sensor.


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Old 08-16-2019, 01:06 AM   #53
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I'm still working on retrofitting a '93 system into my '85 (fuel pumps and seats took priority).

There are 4 main functions within the orifice tube AC system:

1) When the snowflake button is pressed, the main AC relay delays turning on power to the AC system for a few seconds after turning on the car. This prevents trying to start with the compressor engaged. The AC system power also automatically runs the cabin heater box fan on low to prevent icing up the evaporator.

2) The pressure switch on the accumulator turns on and off the compressor clutch - high pressure turns on compressor.

3) The pressure switch by the orifice tube turns on and off the front cooling fan relay - high pressure turns on cooling fan relay.

4) The ECU gets signals for AC Button On and Compressor Clutch Engaged. I'm assuming these are used to bump up the idle and spark advance as needed to prevent idle from dropping when the compressor kicks in.
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Old 08-16-2019, 03:26 AM   #54
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I read that 91-92 got the improved HVAC set up prior the switch to r134.
Curious to see how your project plays out.
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Old 08-16-2019, 03:38 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
I'm still working on retrofitting a '93 system into my '85 (fuel pumps and seats took priority).

There are 4 main functions within the orifice tube AC system:

1) When the snowflake button is pressed, the main AC relay delays turning on power to the AC system for a few seconds after turning on the car. This prevents trying to start with the compressor engaged. The AC system power also automatically runs the cabin heater box fan on low to prevent icing up the evaporator.

2) The pressure switch on the accumulator turns on and off the compressor clutch - high pressure turns on compressor.

3) The pressure switch by the orifice tube turns on and off the front cooling fan relay - high pressure turns on cooling fan relay.

4) The ECU gets signals for AC Button On and Compressor Clutch Engaged. I'm assuming these are used to bump up the idle and spark advance as needed to prevent idle from dropping when the compressor kicks in.
Thanks for the feedback. Here are my answers:

1) My ECU has a time delay function built in, so no need for the timed relay. As for the fan switch, my circuit disables the AC request signal from reaching the ECU (which in itself drives the +12v to the compressor) unless the blower fan is on.

2) OK in that case I should revise the diagram and put the accumulator switch in line with the +12v from ecu to compressor

3) In that case I'll just bypass this one altogether. The e fan is also controlled by ecu, as on whenever the AC signal request is present.

4) I think this is the case as well. My MS3X box handles that out of the box also, through one of the spare input signals that I reserved for it.

Let me know whether that all makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Mattik View Post
I read that 91-92 got the improved HVAC set up prior the switch to r134.
Curious to see how your project plays out.
Correct, very similar except for the fittings were metric and they did not get a parallel flow condenser.

Last edited by Harlard; 08-16-2019 at 09:16 AM..
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Old 08-16-2019, 12:39 PM   #56
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Correct, very similar except for the fittings were metric and they did not get a parallel flow condenser.
Waiting to see your fitment of the 93 one year only condenser.... into the early sheet metal.
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Old 08-16-2019, 02:35 PM   #57
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Check my project thread. It's all in place.
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Old 08-17-2019, 12:36 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Here are my answers:

1) My ECU has a time delay function built in, so no need for the timed relay. As for the fan switch, my circuit disables the AC request signal from reaching the ECU (which in itself drives the +12v to the compressor) unless the blower fan is on.

2) OK in that case I should revise the diagram and put the accumulator switch in line with the +12v from ecu to compressor

3) In that case I'll just bypass this one altogether. The e fan is also controlled by ecu, as on whenever the AC signal request is present.

4) I think this is the case as well. My MS3X box handles that out of the box also, through one of the spare input signals that I reserved for it.

Let me know whether that all makes sense.
Sorry, I didn't understand your diagram -- is there a relay that MS turns on to enable&power AC? If so, the easiest is to wire the accumulator switch in series to the compressor clutch from the relay. You need the relay, the clutch takes ~4amps (and the fan takes 8 to 15 amps)

The 940s use a different scheme for the compressor. Instead of a switch that closes at high pressure to turn on the fan, the 940s use a switch that opens at high pressure. The 940s then wire the accumulator switch in series with the over pressure switch to the compressor clutch. Normally, the accumulator switch turns on and off the compressor. If high pressure it too much, the high pressure switch opens and the compressor stays off until the pressure drops.

I'll post some pics of my '93 condenser into '85 sheet metal later -- I used 4 home depot nailing plates, and a bunch of bolts/screws to extend the condenser frame to the the sheet metal. Pretty simple once I figured out how to do it.
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Old 09-06-2019, 04:39 PM   #59
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Quick update on the diagram: I will redraw what I ended up doing. I have zero formal training in designing electrical circuits so bear with me. Duane, I have some more detailed shots for you now. I drilled a total of 4 7mm holes and used a combination of donut type isolators and rubber cushion mounts, plus high temp weatherstrip foam to seal the cooling package. 1850CFM SPAL fan is barely cutting it in terms of cooling the engine. Might throw the 1000CFM fan in the front location as a pusher. If that fails I will revert to the stock 940T fan as it moves 4500 CFM on its own according to internet lore. We shall see.









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Old 09-07-2019, 11:21 PM   #60
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You need a pusher fan for a truly efficient ac
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:11 PM   #61
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I have a 1000 CFM deal ready to drop in.

Finally got the pre-fill bugs sorted. System is vacuumed, oil is charged (7.5oz of ester), compressor clutch is verified working. We did run into a snag when we realized that there is no high side pressure port for a gauge.

So, now what?
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:13 PM   #62
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Good reason to charge by weight.

Another port can be added if you are going to test by hi/lo pressure/temperature readings.
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Old 09-20-2019, 07:05 PM   #63
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I forget if you have a full '93 system or a converted '91/'92, but either way, you want to fill by weight since Volvo didn't provide a factory high-side port. I'm also not sure if ester oil is the right choice, I'm not an A/C Tech.

Posts on this site say 1.62lbs r134a, or do some searching for fill capacity, e.g.
https://www.techchoiceparts.com/refr...pacities/volvo

You'll need 3 12oz cans, a screw on can tap, a manifold gauge set (just the can and low pressure hoses connected), and a scale that you trust. Weigh the cans before and after to see how much has gone into your system.

When I charged my '85, w/ a full '93 swap, I needed to warm up the cans and rev the engine some to get it all in. Otherwise, at idle, the compressor was always engaged but didn't drop the low side pressure enough for the cans to empty. Also, check the accuracy of your scale beforehand. My cheapo kitchen scale varied by a few tenths of an ounce depending on how long it had been on and the phase of the moon.
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Old 09-20-2019, 08:48 PM   #64
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I decided to go with Ester over PAG 46 because the person that sold me the evaporator could not confirm whether it was a 91 or 92/93 one. Either way I flushed it with acetone and let it dry. Just want to avoid potential problems if possible.

Good call on filling by weight. Will do that.
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Old 09-25-2019, 01:06 PM   #65
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OK, filled by weight as best as we could, while maintaining a low side pressure of 30-40 PSI. Only found self-sealing 12oz cans of refrigerant but could not get the can tap adapter to work without leaking a significant amount of R-134A. Vents blow at ~54*F with a cowl inlet temperature of ~95-100*. Asked Gary about it and he suggested pinching the heater hose...made no difference.

I think I'm going to take the car to an AC shop to get the charge dialed in. Hopefully they would be able to evacuate as well as fill it to dial in the right amount of refrigerant.

Either that or the charge is totally fine and what's screwing me turns out to be the suction line being 1" away from the turbine housing of the turbo. There is gold foil tape and a turbo blanket to mitigate, but I don't know quite how effective those are.
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Old 09-25-2019, 02:26 PM   #66
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What temp do you get with the system in recirculate?

The factory specs for my 82 is 48 to 54 degrees. Mine runs at about 48 degrees in recir.
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:49 PM   #67
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About the same, mid-50s.
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Old 09-26-2019, 07:32 PM   #68
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Close . . . no cigar.

A vacuum and recharge by weight might make a few degrees difference but you are a long way from the 30's. A pusher fan that runs whenever the AC clutch is engaged will help but only a few degrees.

I know it has been mentioned but a little leaking temperature valve in the heating system can easily overcome the best AC systems. I have installed a shut off valve in the heater hose in a couple cars.
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Old 09-26-2019, 10:38 PM   #69
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A good fan and air guides will help get the high side pressure down a lot.

A good compressor and a clean/proper working TXV is also crucial.

I use a machine to put the proper WEIGHT.
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Old 09-26-2019, 11:12 PM   #70
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My garbage uses an orifice tube/dryer system...
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Old 09-27-2019, 11:32 AM   #71
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My garbage uses an orifice tube/dryer system...
Where is it?
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Old 09-27-2019, 10:48 PM   #72
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My garbage uses an orifice tube/dryer system...
Nothing wrong with that. Im using the orifice tube in my 93 and Im getting mid 30's at the vents. I would get rid of the ester oil. You need pag 100 or something. Take one of your high side hoses and have a port put into it.
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Old 09-28-2019, 02:35 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Vents blow at ~54*F with a cowl inlet temperature of ~95-100*.
That sounds pretty good to me if you're running without re-circ. I don't think my retrofit will drop the incoming air temp by 40░-45░ on a hot day (but I'm worried that my '93 salvage yard compressor isn't doing so well).

What's the official test procedure? Re-circ or cowl inlet? Windows cracked? Idle or highway speed? Fan speed? Looking for mid 30s center vent temperature, or XX░ drop from outside air?

Edit: is recirc working? Stick your head in the passenger footwell with a flashlight and see if the big flap on the front of the air box opens/closes correctly.
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Old 09-28-2019, 04:21 PM   #74
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This was side vent qith car idling in the garage. Recirc works, I redid the entirety of the under-dash area when I replaced the passenger side panel

As for ester oil, the performance difference is negligible at worst. I'm not flushing and redoing the whole thing just for that.
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