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Old 05-27-2019, 06:39 PM   #76
LloydDobler
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The cam plates are flat when new, but it'd be normal for it to wear over time because it is a helical gear on it which does put a thrust load on. They last hundreds of thousands of miles with regular oil changes but they all will wear a bit.

As for the seat, yeah stock seats are really nice in these cars, always have been. Have you checked the webbing underneath? Not sure if your car is old enough to still have the rubber web but if it does, you can get a later or aftermarket wire webbing and the seat will feel like new even on original foam. Just pop the snaps on the front of the seat cushion and lift it up and look.
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:34 PM   #77
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The cam plates are flat when new, but it'd be normal for it to wear over time because it is a helical gear on it which does put a thrust load on. They last hundreds of thousands of miles with regular oil changes but they all will wear a bit.

As for the seat, yeah stock seats are really nice in these cars, always have been. Have you checked the webbing underneath? Not sure if your car is old enough to still have the rubber web but if it does, you can get a later or aftermarket wire webbing and the seat will feel like new even on original foam. Just pop the snaps on the front of the seat cushion and lift it up and look.
The webbing this car has are 3 red straps that run from side to side. I got a dozen of the clips from VP to make sure the webbing stays where it should.

For those who are paying attention/interested, nothing new has happened since Sunday. I dilly-dallied and ordered stuff from VP on Monday night. Got a new steel plate and ring, 6 headlight bulb clips, 8 new bleeders, and a dozen copper crush washers so I can take care of the brake system.

I really, really want to register this car next week and drive it to the local friends meet and Dunkin Donuts with my younger brother on Thursday evening. His last final exam of his 1st year of high school is that afternoon, and I think it'd kick the summer off well.
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It's all just lifter noise til it comes out the side.
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Old 05-31-2019, 01:33 PM   #78
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Your cam thrust plate looks better than the one I pulled out of my '75 B20. Similar wear; it's not obvious in the photo below but it had also fractured into several pieces. This was after cam gear failure so maybe related, not sure.

Are those still available new? There's probably an accepted minimum thickness or axial thrust lash measurement you could use to determine if it needs replacement.

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Old 05-31-2019, 07:48 PM   #79
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Your cam thrust plate looks better than the one I pulled out of my '75 B20. Similar wear; it's not obvious in the photo below but it had also fractured into several pieces. This was after cam gear failure so maybe related, not sure.

Are those still available new? There's probably an accepted minimum thickness or axial thrust lash measurement you could use to determine if it needs replacement.

Yes. I couldn't find the brass/bronze version, but iPD and VP both sell a new steel plate, which according to the guys at HiPerfAuto, is original/correct for B18's.
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Old 06-01-2019, 07:04 PM   #80
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Well, she's a runner!!
I spent/ wasted the morning jacking around with some thread issues and various fiddly bits, and attempted the first crank at 2:00 ish.
I elected to delete the secondary butterflies in the intake per HiPerfAuto/Planetman's advice. I was able to tap the open hole on each runner for a 3/8-24 thread and threaded a bolt in for now. I will have to order two pipe plugs that don't protrude.

After wasting an hour diagnosing why when cranking, it would cough like it was 180 out and the dizzy drive was lined up, I realized that the last idiot to work on this car put the dizzy drive with the smaller part pointing downwards, and to compensate, put the plug wires on the cap 180 degrees off. Once it was timed right (ish), it fired right up and the break in commenced. With the rusted out exhaust and two more cylinders, this ****er is noticeably louder than before. I'm glad ya'll steered me towards the 'D' grind as it has a little bit of lope at idle and seems eager to climb.

After dinner, I'll change the oil and filter and get you a running video for evidence that I actually partially completed a project! Tomorrow will be tackling the brakes and buttoning up the fuel system. Hopefully Monday's lunch break will be spent getting the car tagged so I can drive it!



Also, I met Impolvo and took delivery of some goodies from him, for future (long term) project ideas.

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Old 06-01-2019, 09:16 PM   #81
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So damn excited to have this thing running 85% now. Need to do a full tune up eventually and re-gap the plugs. Valves were set at .024 prior to cam break it to leave plenty of room for things to close/open up as needed. Tomorrow should be fresh long brake lines and bleeding as well as finishing up the fuel system.
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:32 PM   #82
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this is looking so nice! I only got to see it in the dark last week. I have that rear sway if you think it will fit.
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:26 PM   #83
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this is looking so nice! I only got to see it in the dark last week. I have that rear sway if you think it will fit.
Can you let me know what the width is on the outside from square bar to square bar? I'll ask RWC what it's correct for.


No real pictures or substantial update today. Mostly screwed around with choke adjustment, carb tuning to dial in idle speed and mixture, and getting the rest of the engine put back together.

Major work included re-installing the fuel tank, new rubber fuel hose, new sender and gasket, and replaced the long brake lines under the car. I also determined I need new rubber hoses on all four corners and already ordered them- they'll be here Tuesday.
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:01 PM   #84
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I tagged and insured the car yesterday- that was expensive.

Replaced the rear soft lines and got a good pedal. I took the car out for a quick 5-minute test drive and discovered that most of the time, the car runs like dog **** and runs on 2 or 3 cylinders. Occasionally, it cleans up and has some power, but nothing like what it should be.

I'm going to guess there's no oil/wrong oil in the dashpots or crud in the float bowl. I adjusted the mixture to where I could lift the cylinder and the idle didn't change and I set the idle to ~900 RPM.

The rear brakes bled great and the pedal felt good. Drove the car, and decided I wanted to bleed the fronts. I promptly discovered mediocre fluid flow up front. I decided to replace the front rubber lines and then broke the short steel line that runs into the caliper. I need to make two new ones (one for each side because the other one was bad too) out of NiCopp tomorrow afternoon/evening.
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Old 06-05-2019, 11:35 PM   #85
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Dropped the Virgos off at a local used tire place and got a set of good but mixed 195/65R15's mounted. Three still have the little nubs and the other one looks like new. $35 a wheel mounted and balanced with sticky weights is hard to beat until I nail down what to do with wheels exactly.

I made new short caliper lines, went to re-bleed the system, had no pedal, and then promptly broke 4 of the 6 front bleeders. Hopefully Eric at HiPerfAuto can ship me rebuilt units tomorrow and I can get them on this weekend.

For the most part, I resolved the running like dog **** issue. There was no oil in the dashpots. I am going to re-tune the car this weekend, and I also bought a set of plugs to eliminate the possibility of crappy old plugs. I should probably check the points gap too

Enjoy some single muffler B20 D cam revs too!





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Old 06-06-2019, 09:05 AM   #86
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Looking good dude! Nothing wrong with a set of Virgos. I might have some spare center caps if you're interested.
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:13 AM   #87
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Pull that windshield and do some work ASAP.

1.

2.



3. http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...e&artno=281065
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:28 PM   #88
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Pull that windshield and do some work ASAP.

1.

2.



3. http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...e&artno=281065
I know.
The budget currently dictates the work being done.
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:31 PM   #89
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The 142 is looking good on Virgos! Congrats on getting it on the road and good luck with the troubleshooting & tuning process.
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:02 PM   #90
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The 142 is looking good on Virgos! Congrats on getting it on the road and good luck with the troubleshooting & tuning process.
Technically, we arenít on the road yet. Iíve only driven it a mile on the road and then ****ed the brakes up. Hopefully Saturday will end in a long, spirited drive in the car.

Thanks! I like the silver/green contrast pf the wheels and body. They almost look correct for the car. Itíll look better once its buffed and waxed.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:33 PM   #91
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Today was a win, a fail (or four), and then another win.

Got outside at ~10ish, hacked off the remains of the old muffler and welded up some stuff to quiet down the now straight piped B20.
Rebuilt front calipers from HiPerf rolled in at 11:30 and had a good pedal by 1:00. My brother and I took the car 2 miles to the gas station and back and still had an intermittent misfire under load. I also determined that I certainly had some sort of coolant/heat management issue because 40mph on light throttle was almost pegging the temp gauge and the car was pretty sensitive temp-wise. After coming back from an excursion with the boss to a closing junkyard, I determined the issue was a combination of a collapsing upper hose and the tube disconnected from the coolant bottle.

Fresh plugs helped the misfire under load.

I'll get better pictures tomorrow.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:25 PM   #92
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[QUOTE=vwbusman66;5958156]Can you let me know what the width is on the outside from square bar to square bar? I'll ask RWC what it's correct for.


I got in touch with IPD, they confirmed it is for a 122 by checking it against the one that sits in there showroom. I can get you exact dims later.

We will have to get together one afternoon for a drive. I cant wait to see this thing on the road!
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:36 PM   #93
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I got in touch with IPD, they confirmed it is for a 122 by checking it against the one that sits in there showroom. I can get you exact dims later.

We will have to get together one afternoon for a drive. I can't wait to see this thing on the road!
That explains why it looked narrow under the car! It definitely won't fit this thing then.

Absolutely!
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:41 AM   #94
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I miss spoke.. I meant to say itís for a 142, and not the 122..

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That explains why it looked narrow under the car! It definitely won't fit this thing then.

Absolutely!
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:17 PM   #95
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I miss spoke.. I meant to say itís for a 142, and not the 122..
Hmmmm. Ok. Shoot me a text so we can talk turkey on that thing.

I guess I should post a real update on this thread.

Saturday was the first real drive in this car and I've been trying to force it into daily driver status since. The exhaust setup is pretty ****ty right now. I am using the stock header/downpipe (2" OD) with an adapter stepping it up into a 3" Thrush welded muffler, and then a 5' piece of 3" pipe. It's quieter inside than the original single blown out muffler, but outside the car is pretty obnoxious. I really don't want to shell out the extra dough for a full 2" setup. Would a resonator or glasspack quiet things down a little?

I am fighting a deceleration pop/backfire as well as an occasional partial throttle misfire. Under WOT, the car runs well on all 4 and pulls hard enough. I supposed I need to do a full tune up and pull the carbs down and clean them.

Last night, I tightened the fuel pump as I am currently missing the shim to limit fuel pressure as oil was leaking out. The pressure became so high that fuel would push past the float valve and shoot out of the float bowl vent on the front carb when running. I need to order one from VP tonight.

I'm not really thrilled with the brakes at the moment. The car stops really well when there is a high vacuum from the engine. Otherwise, the pedal is hard and there's almost no vacuum assist. The brake pedal is hard all the time, which I like. I suspect a different pad compound instead of the OE pads may also help this. What do I do? Add a one-way valve and vacuum ball from another car to improve the vacuum retention?

I started playing with this tonight:
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:39 PM   #96
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The OE brake compound is more than sufficient for a stock set up.
I'm almost positive there should be a check valve in the vacuum hose, there is on my 73. Do you have this?
Or, the booster could be leaking around the elbow fitting on the booster.
Your throttle shafts could be leaking and require bushings to be installed. It's been over 30 years since I've messed with any though, so I can't offer too much assistance.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:56 PM   #97
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The OE brake compound is more than sufficient for a stock set up.
I'm almost positive there should be a check valve in the vacuum hose, there is on my 73. Do you have this?
Or, the booster could be leaking around the elbow fitting on the booster.
Your throttle shafts could be leaking and require bushings to be installed. It's been over 30 years since I've messed with any though, so I can't offer too much assistance.
Steve
I'm sure the carbs could use a re-bush at this point, though I doubt that's solely responsible for my shoddy braking or "rabble rabble brap tat" on decel. I believe the stock check valve lives in the elbow. It's likely that rubber seal is leaking or the whole elbow is shot.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:39 PM   #98
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No, I think there also should be an inline check valve in the vacuum line.
VP has this one: http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...e&artno=678407
Steve
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:37 PM   #99
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No, I think there also should be an inline check valve in the vacuum line.
VP has this one: http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...e&artno=678407
Steve
My 73 1800es has an inline one, my 71 145 doesn't, I think it's integrated into the elbow. Greenbook will probably have the answers
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:18 PM   #100
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My 73 1800es has an inline one, my 71 145 doesn't, I think it's integrated into the elbow. Greenbook will probably have the answers
I believe its a Girling vs ATE thing.
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