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Old 04-28-2019, 05:01 PM   #1
ogamer777
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Default M46 overdrive woes

1982 244 b21ft m46

So my OD doesn't engage and I've chased this issue for a few months. OD light comes on when I hit the button, I hear the relay and I can hear the solenoid engage as well but the darn thing will not go into OD. I've replaced the solenoid with a brand new unit.

Is this the actual overdrive unit itself gone bad? Or something else? Afaik it's the original m46 with nearly 240k miles.
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Feedback thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=322924

Looking for some hard to find Volvo accessories for my 82 GLT. Especially rubber trunk mats.

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Old 04-28-2019, 06:17 PM   #2
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Sounds like an internal problem.

I had a similar issue and the problem was the O-rings surrounding two "pistons" in the OD had worn out.

see:http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/transod.html#jumping

and

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...ebuild:%20M-46

But before you start tearing into it, make sure you have enough gear oil in the gearbox: if you get too low the OD won't engage.

Last edited by Mr. V; 04-28-2019 at 10:05 PM..
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:48 PM   #3
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+ 1 on the piston o-ring seals, that's the second most probable, after wiring issues.

"Gear oil" in the m46 should be ATF Type F (can be harder to find) or SAE 30w non-detergent motor oil. Hopefully you will be able to tell by the color what is in yours.
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:54 AM   #4
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Per suggestions from T-brickers I now use Redline MTL in the gearbox of my 244 and 744 Turbos: works great.
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:18 AM   #5
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I found this website to be very helpful when replacing the piston o-rings. https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox

They are easy to replace, the full rebuild is a little more involved. If you go this route make sure to dump the clutch to kill the engine while in reverse. Doing that really helps to separate the OD from the trans.

I had very similar issues, check out this thread for some more tips: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=339523
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:20 AM   #6
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Or you could spend $2K for a noisy T5 conversion TB style with the wrong ratios.
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:17 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone. Looks like I'm either rebuilding or replacing the OD unit.
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:11 PM   #8
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We regularly rebuild J overdrive units and we did one last week.

We normally have all the gaskets and seals in stock as well as a decent collection of used parts.

The last O/D needed a clutch and although new ones are still available, the customer opted for a good used 1 which we had.
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Old 04-29-2019, 03:38 PM   #9
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Dump the clutch in reverse? Wut? I always turn the car off with the trans in fourth with the overdrive engaged and then the overdrive comes off the trans easy and is not hydro locked to the sucker. Just jack up the rear wheels to do this.
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogamer777 View Post
Thanks everyone. Looks like I'm either rebuilding or replacing the OD unit.
Did you ensure it’s full of oil?

Better yet, change the oil?
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Old 04-29-2019, 06:39 PM   #11
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Yep checked the fluid and refilled to full
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Old 04-29-2019, 07:37 PM   #12
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It's a pretty easy job, I did the manual swap last year and this prompted my rebuild:



Here's a seal kit for it that you can pick up off of ebay, includes the often forgotten solenoid seals. I picked up the gaskets from Ian.
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Old 05-01-2019, 02:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carver View Post
It's a pretty easy job, I did the manual swap last year and this prompted my rebuild:



Here's a seal kit for it that you can pick up off of ebay, includes the often forgotten solenoid seals. I picked up the gaskets from Ian.
Awesome thanks. That's pretty cheap. How long did it take you to do all the seals?
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:13 PM   #14
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PM inbound!
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:41 AM   #15
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What gaskets? And who is Ian
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Old 05-03-2019, 03:32 PM   #16
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Ian = Hiperfauto...
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:21 PM   #17
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I would first connect the wire to a test lamp and confirm current is making it to the solenoid.
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Old 05-03-2019, 05:19 PM   #18
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Or his brother and that would be me.


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Ian = Hiperfauto...
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:32 AM   #19
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What gaskets do i need?
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Old 05-04-2019, 12:11 PM   #20
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There are 3 paper gaskets, but if you want to properly reseal the O/D, there are a number of additional parts that are needed that aren't in that o-ring kit.


Dowdy seal to seal the solenoid to the case
2 copper sealing washers for upper case studs
O-ring for speedometer housing
Small lip seal for speedometer drive gear
Rear seal

There is 1 more seal and that is for the main filter plug and if original, it's an aluminum crush washer. I mention it so you can make sure you find it to reuse as it doesn't always come out when you remove the filter and it can fall out while cleaning and might be over looked or lost.
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planetman View Post
There are 3 paper gaskets, but if you want to properly reseal the O/D, there are a number of additional parts that are needed that aren't in that o-ring kit.


Dowdy seal to seal the solenoid to the case
2 copper sealing washers for upper case studs
O-ring for speedometer housing
Small lip seal for speedometer drive gear
Rear seal

There is 1 more seal and that is for the main filter plug and if original, it's an aluminum crush washer. I mention it so you can make sure you find it to reuse as it doesn't always come out when you remove the filter and it can fall out while cleaning and might be over looked or lost.
I want to do the job right, the first time. So I'll need all those gaskets.
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Old 05-04-2019, 02:11 PM   #22
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I forgot 1 more gasket which is the mounting gasket that goes between the O/D and the adapter that bolts to the back of the transmission gasket, so a total of 4 gaskets, not 3.

pm'd
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Old 09-03-2019, 12:26 AM   #23
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Ok everyone I am at a loss here. I am still without OD. I have replaced: all wiring withing the OD circuit, from OD / 4th gear switch, both solenoid wires, OD solenoid itself, 4 different units...seems very unlikely that FOUR solenoids in a row were all bad..., replaced the relay for ****s, checked fluid and topped off after swapping solenoids yet again. I have 12V at the solenoid when the OD is engaged and 0V when it isn't. I have a fully rebuilt OD unit from planetman installed as well, so all new gaskets, o rings...What gives? I think I have replaced everything except the OD / 4th gear switch.

Last edited by ogamer777; 09-03-2019 at 12:33 AM..
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogamer777 View Post
I have 12V at the solenoid when the OD is engaged and 0V when it isn't.
That would seem to tell us your wiring circuitry is good, including the 4th gear switch.


This is how I check the solenoid operation in mine (740-- yours may be different because the 2xx switch/wiring is different? But the method should still work):

Car off, parked in a quiet place, ign. switch in run position. Put shifter in 4th. Open driver door, lean your head out the door and down to hear the solenoid when you hit the OD switch. Should be able to hear it click in/out as you hit the switch multiple times.
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Old 09-03-2019, 07:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tintintin View Post
That would seem to tell us your wiring circuitry is good, including the 4th gear switch.


This is how I check the solenoid operation in mine (740-- yours may be different because the 2xx switch/wiring is different? But the method should still work):

Car off, parked in a quiet place, ign. switch in run position. Put shifter in 4th. Open driver door, lean your head out the door and down to hear the solenoid when you hit the OD switch. Should be able to hear it click in/out as you hit the switch multiple times.
Thanks for the reply.

I have done that test with this solenoid, along with the other 3, and they all sounds like they're clicking. It's just kinda faint. How loud should it be? I had my dad press the button on/off a few times and I can hear the click definitely, and I held my fingers on the solenoid to try and feel it too. I do but like I said, it's kinda weak. Would that be a bad ground or connection?
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