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Old 08-24-2019, 11:50 AM   #76
patrickstar
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Drank a few too many PBRs last night and didn't take any pictures of the actual work I did...

But I got the measurements for the driveshaft, torqued all the motor mount bolts, plugged in 50% of the Terminator X harness, and tried to fit the starter. The starter I ordered didn't fit so I'll be sending it back and ordering a mini
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:50 PM   #77
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Making some good progress!
In all reality, I have respect for all builds...it’s all hot rod-ding to me.
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:06 PM   #78
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Making some good progress!
In all reality, I have respect for all builds...itís all hot rod-ding to me.
Lol, this took me a second. Those two cars are two of my friends, they're sweet but they're into different things (Drifting). I think I'm starting to convince them Volvos are cool...
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:42 PM   #79
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Didn't really have much to do today, so I decided to put the front end back together. Need to bring up the bumper and grill up to the shop its at right now.



Also, test mounted the radiator (1992+ Volvo 940 NA). You need to cut the little feet off the bottom of it and it looks like it'll fit nicely. I think I've found a hose (NAPA 8713 - 2004 GTO upper hose) that'll work if I cut it in the middle and use a connector. NAPA closed before I could test it out

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Old 08-27-2019, 10:02 AM   #80
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So I had been waiting on a CNC relocation shifter for the AR5, but the price wasn't right and the guy was taking forever. So I cut a hole in the floorboard and cleaned up a stock shifter.



I actually had to source a second stock shifter because I broke the pivot ball inside. So now I have plenty of parts



My friend machined a flat side and drilled a hole. Originally, I was going to build some linkage driven relocation shifter, but after sitting in the car I think I'll be okay with shifter position as-is.




Sandblasted the base and added some parts I found laying around the shop. Looks good enough for this POS
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:59 PM   #81
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Hey I see a cressy , i had one till it rotted out but it was the foundation of my new project
which is the volvo 240 with a 7mgte which was in the cressida.
Nice going !!!!
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:03 AM   #82
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Hey I see a cressy , i had one till it rotted out but it was the foundation of my new project
which is the volvo 240 with a 7mgte which was in the cressida.
Nice going !!!!
That would be my good friends drift cressida. 2JZ, CD009, a whole bunch of SerialNine suspension bits. Its a fun car. It reminds me a lot of 740s/940s
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:43 PM   #83
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Got the bumper and core support installed last night and bolted the shifter in. Shifter position is perfect for me, stoked on that.

Also, drove up to the closest driveshaft shop (hr away). Brought my old driveshaft, a bunch of drawings, and measurements. After explaining what I was doing and why, I had a group of 5 boomers circled around looking at pictures of the car and swap. They couldn't believe someone would ever V8 swap a Volvo
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:57 PM   #84
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LOL ha they dont know is been done all the time!!!!
nice job take care
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:27 AM   #85
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Dropped the 92+ 940 NA radiator in last night. I had to modify the C-channel across the top to get it to fit with the stock brackets, even after trimming the legs on the bottom




This is what it looks like fully mounted. I think it'll clear the hood, I need to bring it up to the shop to see. Everyone else says thats how much sticks out on theirs, so I'm not worried too much



However, clearance between e-fan and radiator hose is non-existent. I'm gonna try to angle the radiator as far forward as possible to gain some clearance. Also realizing that I shouldn't have gotten the highmount passenger side alternator bracket, as an intake is gonna be a b**** to route. I'll deal with that when I get there
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Old 09-01-2019, 11:49 AM   #86
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Ordered a two-piece driveshaft on Friday, the shop said it'll be done Wednesday. I'm waiting on another order of parts to show up for the fuel system. Decided I'd get something done and get the front end back together this weekend.





Got a new shift knob and 3" extender, put the knob at the perfect position for me. Also installed the hydraulic clutch and bolted in the brake booster/master, need a hand from a friend to get the clutch master bolted in. I have a late black dash to put in, but its gonna be pretty bare inside

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Old 09-04-2019, 03:44 PM   #87
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No driveshaft today unfortunately. I was really hoping to get it running in time for a big car show this weekend, but it doesn't look like that'll happen.
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Old 09-08-2019, 12:57 PM   #88
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Got my driveshaft on Friday from a shop an hour away






Put the car on the lift and the driveshaft was too long. After doing some measuring, it looks like they didn't factor in the length of the slip-yoke and flange yoke. I measured from the transmission output seal to the face of the differential flange and got 53", with all 4 wheels on the ground. Overall driveshaft length was near 57". I'm going to take it back this week and have them shorten it a few inches and rebalance. Another 2hr round trip for that
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Old 09-08-2019, 04:43 PM   #89
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Put the car on the lift and the driveshaft was too long. After doing some measuring, it looks like they didn't factor in the length of the slip-yoke and flange yoke. I measured from the transmission output seal to the face of the differential flange and got 53", with all 4 wheels on the ground. Overall driveshaft length was near 57". I'm going to take it back this week and have them shorten it a few inches and rebalance. Another 2hr round trip for that
you should take it back and have them make it a 2 piece...seriously.
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:51 PM   #90
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you also dont measure driveshaft length from seal to flange. You measure from center of u-joint to center of u-joint cup.
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Old 09-08-2019, 07:37 PM   #91
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you also dont measure driveshaft length from seal to flange. You measure from center of u-joint to center of u-joint cup.
I told them I didn’t have a yoke or flange yoke and they were 100% okay with my measurements. I brought in multiple diagrams and measurements, and confirmed atleast 4 times that it was from transmission face to differential flange.

We measured the driveshaft they gave me from center of u-joint to center of u-joint anyway, and it wasn't 53". So no matter what, there was a screw up somewhere

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Old 09-08-2019, 09:04 PM   #92
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I told them I didnít have a yoke or flange yoke and they were 100% okay with my measurements. I brought in multiple diagrams and measurements, and confirmed atleast 4 times that it was from transmission face to differential flange.

We measured the driveshaft they gave me from center of u-joint to center of u-joint anyway, and it wasn't 53". So no matter what, there was a screw up somewhere
Thats an unfortunate situation
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Old 09-08-2019, 10:43 PM   #93
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Thats an unfortunate situation
Yep, I should have checked before I left... Live and learn. I'll run back up there after work tomorrow and see what they can do.
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:11 AM   #94
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you should take it back and have them make it a 2 piece...seriously.
I second this motion.
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:56 AM   #95
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I second this motion.
That was what I wanted initially, the first driveshaft shop I went to said they couldn't make one in my specs. Second shop said they don't make them at all. I have two options within 3hrs, and I went to both of them
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:08 AM   #96
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you also dont measure driveshaft length from seal to flange. You measure from center of u-joint to center of u-joint cup.
The driveshaft shop I use says to measure from the end of the trans hard case (i.e. ignore any seals sticking out) to the rear axle's bare flange. One measurement at ride height, and another at full droop.

And then they figure out what length the shaft itself between those things is. I've had them make 2 driveshafts for me so far - on T5 - Volvo axle, and more recently a CD009 - Volvo axle. And at some point a CD009 - Ford 8.8 as well.
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:30 AM   #97
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The driveshaft shop I use says to measure from the end of the trans hard case (i.e. ignore any seals sticking out) to the rear axle's bare flange. One measurement at ride height, and another at full droop.

And then they figure out what length the shaft itself between those things is. I've had them make 2 driveshafts for me so far - on T5 - Volvo axle, and more recently a CD009 - Volvo axle. And at some point a CD009 - Ford 8.8 as well.
This was how I measured mine; multiple order forms use the same method. I thought I'd be okay, guess not.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:08 PM   #98
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This was how I measured mine; multiple order forms use the same method. I thought I'd be okay, guess not.
It sounds like the shop just didn't want to do the work to begin with really.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:26 PM   #99
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It sounds like the shop just didn't want to do the work to begin with really.
I'm assuming you meant to quote "the first driveshaft shop I went to said they couldn't make one in my specs"


I wanted a 2.5" two-piece with a 1.77" ID carrier bearing, like a stock Volvo driveshaft. They said that it was impossible to build it with those specs, and the smallest they could do is 3.5".

I could have waited to find a stock driveshaft and have it modified, but I was trying to have my car in our big local carshow this past weekend. After this whole ****show, that wasn't gonna happen.
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:29 PM   #100
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Find a stock 2 piece driveline, all you need is to shorten or lengthen the front half. You measure center of the u joints end to end. Pull out the slip joint about a 1 inch allow for travel.
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