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Old 08-27-2019, 09:20 AM   #1
Marvelous3
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Default No start after washing engine and again this morning after raining

So I think I may need new plug wires but Iíll tell you my story.

So wash the car last week. Got excited and hit the engine bay with simple green and a brush. Hosed it off. I didnít cover anything, oops. Car wouldnít start for like a day afterwards. Figured something I didnít cover needed to dry out.

Car ran fine the last few days.

It rained last night/this so when I got in it this morning it no starts on me again. Engine cranks and it will sort of back fire but wonít turn over. I pulled the distributor cap off and itís dry inside. Postings on here and elsewhere suggest no statt after rain is usually plug wires that have absorbed condensation. What does turbobricks think?
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:34 AM   #2
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Blow out the distributor cap (regardless of if it looks dry) and then each boot of each plug wire (including coil wire). Also blow out where the wires plug into the cap, and where they plug into the coil.

I have probably had the same thing happen to me 10+ times with various different cars and every single time it’s been ignition related.
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:40 AM   #3
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Had that happen to me two weekends ago. If you're pressed for time a hair dryer works well.
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople View Post
Blow out the distributor cap (regardless of if it looks dry) and then each boot of each plug wire (including coil wire). Also blow out where the wires plug into the cap, and where they plug into the coil.

I have probably had the same thing happen to me 10+ times with various different cars and every single time itís been ignition related.
I may just replace the cap rotor and plugs anyways since I canít remember the last time they were changed. I know theyíve needed to be replaced so this might be the reason to do it. Iíll run through everything though before I start changing parts out.

I figured it was ignition related and knew someone else had done what I did before so thanks for the feedback.
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:33 AM   #5
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Only time my car died after rain was when some got into the cabin and dripped into my fuel pump relay, killing the car.
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:34 AM   #6
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I may just replace the cap rotor and plugs anyways since I canít remember the last time they were changed. I know theyíve needed to be replaced so this might be the reason to do it. Iíll run through everything though before I start changing parts out.

I figured it was ignition related and knew someone else had done what I did before so thanks for the feedback.
The only things I really avoid when spraying are the AMM (too expensive to fry another one), and the alternator cus those should get wet either. Pretty much everything else is okay. But when ignition stuff gets wet it might act up for a little, then it fixes itself over time.
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:29 AM   #7
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I have had this happen on many 2/7/9 series cars when the insulation on the crank sensor is cracked/splitting. It takes them 1-3 days to dry out and then they run fine again. I always trailer them to the car wash when I clean them the first time because of this.
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:07 PM   #8
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I don’t know if it bares mentioning but when I go to crank it the tach does not move. And by diagnostic block is died on #2 and #6. If I press the button the red light lights but it doesn’t flash anything back at me.
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:10 PM   #9
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I donít know if it bares mentioning but when I go to crank it the tach does not move.
Did you read my post above? The tach gets its signal from the CPS.
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:02 PM   #10
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I donít know if it bares mentioning but when I go to crank it the tach does not move. And by diagnostic block is died on #2 and #6. If I press the button the red light lights but it doesnít flash anything back at me.
What Roy said is also common. How does your crank sensor look?
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:51 PM   #11
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Crank sensor looks okay. No chaffing or broken sheeting. Of course I dropped the ****ing bolt that holds it on and can’t find it now.
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:57 PM   #12
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The fact your tach drops out indicates a CPS or power stage problem. That's where I would be looking. Even a small amount of water getting into the connector of the CPS will make them not function. That is located right below the hood-cowl gap where rain can easily get in.
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:24 PM   #13
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The fact your tach drops out indicates a CPS or power stage problem. That's where I would be looking. Even a small amount of water getting into the connector of the CPS will make them not function. That is located right below the hood-cowl gap where rain can easily get in.
Doesnít the tach signal also indirectly come from the coil red/white?
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:37 PM   #14
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Yes. The fact that the tach is not working indicates the crank position sensor signal may be missing.
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:38 PM   #15
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The tach is hooked to the low-tension side of the coil, so it won't register anything that happens 'downstream' of the coil. I.e. bad coil, wires, cap, rotor, plugs. If it's dropping out at that point, it has to be the components upstream of the coil.
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:53 PM   #16
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Okay so I’m about 90% sure it’s crank sensor. New cap rotor plugs and wires didn’t fix anything. It needed them anyways so no harm there. Like you said, the tach doesn’t move when cranking which it should. I sprayed some starter fluid in the intake just to be sure it wasn’t fuel and it still doesn’t fire.

The connector looks dry but maybe the sensor is bad. I think I replaced the sensor like 5 or 6 years ago so could be time for a new one. Idk.
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:54 PM   #17
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I’d be curious to know how to fix my obd flashlight
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:57 PM   #18
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You may just have a bad connection where the OBD box plugs into the harness. Or, a bad test light bulb.
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Old 08-27-2019, 04:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
You may just have a bad connection where the OBD box plugs into the harness. Or, a bad test light bulb.
The bulb lights up. I actually sort of took the thing apart and made sure the contacts were decent but nah doesnít want to work.
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Old 08-27-2019, 04:31 PM   #20
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You may just have a bad connection where the OBD box plugs into the harness. Or, a bad test light bulb.
Couldn't it also be a bad ECU? 1990 is notorious for junk ECUs. I had a communication failure on a failed 566 ECU. But I don't think I got any light feedback at all.
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:03 PM   #21
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Alright so new crank sensor but still nothing. Coil? It should read 12 volts on the blue wire with the key in the “on” position?
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:12 PM   #22
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Couldn't it also be a bad ECU? 1990 is notorious for junk ECUs. I had a communication failure on a failed 566 ECU. But I don't think I got any light feedback at all.
My car has 951 series ecus
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:17 PM   #23
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My car has 951 series ecus
good. That's what all my NA 2.4 cars get too.

I'm lost now too. Have you used compressed air and dried out the connector and boot on the coil itself? Are you lacking spark on ALL cylinders? How about a noid light to see if the injectors are firing.
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:43 PM   #24
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Does the ignition go through the power stage before it gets to the coil?
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:00 PM   #25
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Main power fuse to ECU, did you check that? Sounds like that is your problem. Not sure what your car is but wont' run and also the code reader wont' work if you don't have power to the ECU... If that isn't it, then possibly your ECU is bad. You should get your code test working flashing one one one first then you know it should run. Electrical problem for sure. Check your grounds. All the fuses, if you car is a 240 then the fuse panel is in a good spot to get corroded and needs cleaning especially if water gets by the door seal or even the windshield seal drips onto the fuse panel. YOu gotta take all the fuses out and clean the contact end things that the fuses contact on.

I has similar problem after washing the motor and car would die when I came to a stop. I don't know what it was but it fixed itself after a while drying out possibly the cranks sensor like roy says on mine. 95 940 turbo wagon. If you car was is a 740 I'd say check that fuse number one the main fuse.
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