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Old 09-03-2019, 05:24 PM   #1
Frank_Rizzo
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Default How many hours of work to fix broken motor mounts?

The motor mounts on my 2.3L engine in the 1984 Volvo 244 are failing. I need to fix at least one but I'm going to probably replace all three (I think it's three). How many hours of work would this take? Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:38 PM   #2
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Well, I'm a home boy installer without a lift. So I set aside a day. That way I can take my time and do all of them. The two engine ones and the trans.
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Old 09-03-2019, 06:41 PM   #3
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It took about an hour to replace the drivers side motor mount on my '85 244. I had no prior experience and used the engine support bar from Harbor Freight to support the engine.
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Old 09-03-2019, 07:27 PM   #4
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Shouldn't take long. Just Jack one side up at a time. If you can, find the passenger side engine mount cover. It's a metal cover that protects the passenger side engine mount getting covered in oily when replacing the oil filter.
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Old 09-03-2019, 07:44 PM   #5
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The metal cover is for turbo cars to protect the rubber mount from excessive heat. Why the NA's don't have that. What I did on my NA 240 is use two of the passenger side diesel mounts. You gotta take out the drivers side brackets and drill bigger hole in the middle of the brackets for the straight through passenger side HD diesel mounts. Takes a bit longer of course. But they last. It does raise the motor a little bit. Then grind the alignment nub down or make the alignment hole bigger or in the right spot. More work and time but they will last longer.
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:00 PM   #6
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Anyone have an extra heat shield?
My turbo project does not have one.
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:15 PM   #7
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The official quoted time is 1.2 hours, so plan on a bit more.
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:38 PM   #8
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Heats shields came on NA cars -'84. They're made out of thinner metal than the turbo heat shields but they also cost less.

https://www.volvowholesalepartsdirec...2/1221980.html

The turbo heat shield appears to be available still but there's none in stock in Sweden so it may be NLA

https://www.volvowholesalepartsdirec...0/1273735.html
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:44 PM   #9
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Looks like they have them in stock...

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8506...-volvo-1273735
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
The metal cover is for turbo cars to protect the rubber mount from excessive heat. Why the NA's don't have that.
Any car can benefit from it. Heat or oil, it protects the rubber engine mount. Definitely a good thing to have regardless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
What I did on my NA 240 is use two of the passenger side diesel mounts. You gotta take out the drivers side brackets and drill bigger hole in the middle of the brackets for the straight through passenger side HD diesel mounts. Takes a bit longer of course. But they last. It does raise the motor a little bit. Then grind the alignment nub down or make the alignment hole bigger or in the right spot. More work and time but they will last longer.
Diesel mounts are good alternatives to OE. The passenger side (US) is the only available side for purchase.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8980...-volvo-1272346 (OEM DIESEL right side)
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8977...e-volvo-274110 (OEM left side)

If you wanna go even firmer (harder durometer) there are polyurethane mounts too.

https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-rwd...mount-set.html

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/240_P..._12566101.aspx
https://www.classicswede.co.uk/240_P..._12566100.aspx

http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=2...t#!prettyPhoto (OFF CENTER)
http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=8...-b200-b230-prt (CENTERED)

If you do go with something with a greater durometer, do it for all three mounts. Many people have testified that upgrading engine mounts with poly or HD (anything other than OEM) and replacing the trans mount with rubber yields in a short lived life of the transmission mount.

The transmission mount is probably bad or close to it. Since the engine mounts failed, the majority of the load is transferred to the trans mount.

I didn't see you mentioning auto or manual so here are links for both. Again,poly, HD and OEM variants are available.

Manual:

OE style aftermarket: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6151...market-1221967

IPD HD trans mount: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8890...125338-1206612

RetroTurbo poly trans mount: http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=m...for-200-series

Automatic:

OEM MTC: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/2074...-vr205-1206217

I don't know if there are any HD or poly aw70 mounts available anywhere.

Last edited by ogamer777; 09-04-2019 at 12:28 AM..
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Old 09-03-2019, 09:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carver View Post
Looks like they have one in stock...

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8506...-volvo-1273735
FTFY
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Old 09-03-2019, 09:20 PM   #12
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now they have none...
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:01 PM   #13
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Only need one...
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Old 09-04-2019, 12:01 AM   #14
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So there are no diesel mounts left worldwide?
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Old 09-04-2019, 01:55 PM   #15
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About 1 hour each is a reasonable estimate. With the driver's side front mount, it is easiest to just remove both brackets and change the mount.
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Old 09-04-2019, 03:41 PM   #16
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Moun...gAAOSwoaNbn0YE

These will get the job done. No alignment pin either, just gotta drill the hole bigger in the middle of the brackets for the drivers side on your 240.

This is also what I used. Mainly because cheapo....



US $13.71

Buy It Now -


Free shipping

Returns accepted
Ships from United States
Shipping:
Estimated by eBay FAST 'N FREE FAST 'N FREE
Guaranteed by Tue. Sep. 10


Also there is a million round tranny mounts for 10 buxs each on ebay, look exactly the same. Might not be as hard, who knows?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15

Last edited by sbabbs; 09-04-2019 at 03:51 PM..
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Old 09-04-2019, 03:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hessam69 View Post
So there are no diesel mounts left worldwide?
I believe the conversation was referring to the heat shield/oil guard for the right side mount.
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Old 09-04-2019, 03:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank_Rizzo View Post
The motor mounts on my 2.3L engine in the 1984 Volvo 244 are failing. I need to fix at least one but I'm going to probably replace all three (I think it's three). How many hours of work would this take? Thanks!
Hey tough guy! Hours whaddya mean hours i can do those in minutes sizzle chest! Just take it to the super across the way if you cant do it eh.
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Old 09-04-2019, 04:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 122power View Post
Hey tough guy! Hours whaddya mean hours i can do those in minutes sizzle chest! Just take it to the super across the way if you cant do it eh.


PR could do it in 15 minutes on Mom's kitchen table.

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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-05-2019, 09:42 PM   #20
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When I got to do them daily it took 15 minutes to do all three on the hoist.

These days it takes me an hour to do a pair of engine mounts in an E-55. Two hours for a pair in an S-65.
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Old 09-05-2019, 11:43 PM   #21
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On the opposite end of the spectrum, first time, with literally no guide and in the dark took about 5 hours.
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:57 AM   #22
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With a lift and a screw jack---- under an hour with good tools.

Bull****ting with tbrickers in a driveway with hand tools and a floor jack......maybe the day, depending on how much beer we drank.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:40 PM   #23
dl242gt
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Yes, see that is why I stated early in the thread to allow for a day. He probably never replaced them before. Funny how the thread circled back. Or the op can find someone with a lift and screw jack and take care of it quickly.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post


PR could do it in 15 minutes on Mom's kitchen table.



Knocked out some 240 MMs quick quick while using a hoist. Helps to have ratcheting wrenches and impacts. Oh electric ratchets too. Also just did the 744 with hydraulic mounts and MAN what a difference it makes in the way the car drives.
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Old 09-07-2019, 04:47 PM   #25
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If you have an impact it’s really quick and easy. Crawl under and zip off the three nuts on each side that hold the bracket to the subframe. Jack the engine up by the oilpan. Undo the M8 bolts holding the brackets to the block. Put the whole assembly in a vice and zip the nuts off. Replace rubber mount and put the whole thing back.

Maybe an hour for both sides including figuring out if the bolts take a 12 or 13mm wrench and then some swearing at that one M8 bolt by the oil filter.
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