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Old 01-17-2018, 02:42 PM   #1
lummert
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Default Smoke from turbo seals?

1988 765, B230FT, 1990 exhaust manifold, later TD04h-13C-6, 295k miles. Seems to be much more smoke from the exhaust as the ambient temp nears zero degrees F. Is this a symptom of bad turbo seals. I've checked for blowby and it doesn't seem to be causing the tail pipe smoke.
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Old 01-17-2018, 03:34 PM   #2
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are you using a catch can? I was, and the condensation aka "mother's milk" froze and clogged up the whole PCV system and I got James Bond style smoke out the tailpipe. Thought turbo was bad, was not.
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Old 01-17-2018, 03:37 PM   #3
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are you using a catch can? I was, and the condensation aka "mother's milk" froze and clogged up the whole PCV system and I got James Bond style smoke out the tailpipe. Thought turbo was bad, was not.
Yes, using catch can. Will try routing hoses back to the way that Volvo had them.
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Old 01-17-2018, 03:41 PM   #4
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What color smoke?
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Old 01-17-2018, 04:00 PM   #5
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What color smoke?
Blue. I can smell the smoke as right now i'm running on just the down pipe as it's too cold to crawl under the car to put the exhaust back together. it has an odd smell to it, and a cloud of swirling smoke follows behind my car at 55 mph. But the smoke is not as bad when it's not zero degrees outside.
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:49 PM   #6
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I forgot to mention installing an 82C thermostat that isn't letting the engine warm up. I'm sure the engine isn't warming up as I'm not getting enough heat. I'm going to switch back to the 88C Calorstat.

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Old 01-18-2018, 01:15 PM   #7
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Is there oil coming out of the tailpipe?
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Old 01-18-2018, 01:40 PM   #8
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If its blowing blue smoke, the oil is getting past the internal seals. Time for a new chra. Here is a link to one I've ordered before and been pleased with product.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-740-7...9SlPpg&vxp=mtr

All you got to do is swap out the chra. About a 2 hour job. You don't have to remove the entire turbo. Just remove the cold side/chra(unbolt the clamp that holds the chra to turbine housing) with all the lines intact minus the feed line(feed line has to be removed). Install new chra after cleaning up compressor housing and the bolt down the water lines and oil return and you'll be good to everything back together. Its good idea to check the cbv and replace if needed.

Alternatively, you can find a good used chra in the junkyard if they're any red blocks in your neck of the woods. Don't buy a complete turbo as that will be just a waste of money.
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Old 01-18-2018, 02:09 PM   #9
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I forgot to mention installing an 82C thermostat that isn't letting the engine warm up. I'm sure the engine isn't warming up as I'm not getting enough heat. I'm going to switch back to the 88C Calorstat.
How long are your daily commutes? Itís pretty bad to make frequent short trips. Oil never getting to temp dilutes the oil with gasoline and allows moisture to build up (milkshake on the dipstick). Itís good to get them on the highway and get everything up to temp.
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Old 01-18-2018, 03:14 PM   #10
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Okay, 25 degrees F heat wave this afternoon. Managed to get the 88C Calorstat thermostat swapped back in and the crankcase breather hoses rerouted. Now for some driving time.

Most of my driving is short trip with an occasional out of town trip. The farthest distance to anyplace in my town is 1.5 miles from home. So the engine takes about 1.5 miles to warm up. Last time I checked the oil I found the milky stuff on the dipstick. I also recently found the same milky stuff under the oil fill cap. Hopefully correctly routing the crankcase hoses will help.
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Old 01-18-2018, 03:48 PM   #11
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Okay, 25 degrees F heat wave this afternoon. Managed to get the 88C Calorstat thermostat swapped back in and the crankcase breather hoses rerouted. Now for some driving time.

Most of my driving is short trip with an occasional out of town trip. The farthest distance to anyplace in my town is 1.5 miles from home. So the engine takes about 1.5 miles to warm up. Last time I checked the oil I found the milky stuff on the dipstick. I also recently found the same milky stuff under the oil fill cap. Hopefully correctly routing the crankcase hoses will help.
The milky residue is due to moisture in the oil because it never gets hot enough around town. Idling will rarely get oil temps up unfortunately.

Is your oil cooler air to oil, or water to oil?
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Old 01-18-2018, 05:39 PM   #12
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The milky residue is due to moisture in the oil because it never gets hot enough around town. Idling will rarely get oil temps up unfortunately.

Is your oil cooler air to oil, or water to oil?
Air to oil cooler.
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Old 01-18-2018, 05:47 PM   #13
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Air to oil cooler.
Ahh, the water to oil should heat up the oil faster since it relies on your coolant, and coolant warms up exponentially faster than oil. Oh well.

I think a nice highway romp will clear up your milkshake.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:20 PM   #14
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Is there oil coming out of the tailpipe?
I have had oil at the tip of the tail pipe. But I attributed that to too much fuel pressure for the fuel injectors. Went from 3.0 bar to 2.5 bar fpr. Injectors are from a supercharged Buick V6. Bosch White Top Injector specs are identical to Ford Racing Red Top injectors.
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Old 02-10-2018, 02:02 PM   #15
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Just replaced a leaking water pump. Apparently the odd smelling smoke when the engine was cold was antifreeze leaking from the water pump weep hole burning on the exhaust while driving. Once the engine warmed up the smoke stopped because the water pump stopped leaking.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:35 PM   #16
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great. I would rather replace a water pump than a turbo.
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:46 PM   #17
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Update: TD04H-13c failed. Reinstalled TD05-12b and -89 exhaust manifold and oil smoke is gone.
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