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Parts for 531 head rebuild?

Disassembled both heads to bring the new 531 and old valves to the machine shop. I wrote an article on the disassembly here. I noticed one exhaust valve had a bunch of bulid up around it's stem. Any thoughts on what caused this? Everything else looks really clean and I assume the 1995 valve train from the 530 will swap into the 1987 531 head just fine.

 
ok, their economy springs originally worked with old kjet springs, so maybe their retainers for economy springs will work for kjet springs too?

i don't know one person who has run into a problem running the "longer" economy springs.

so for me, real life > theory

Yeah more like "I know what the book says, and the econo spring are 80 lbs/sq in stiffer, but nobody I know has checked or even thinks about that so I'm going to cover my ears and say LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-

So you you
head-in-sand.png


In true Turbopricker fashion.:roll:
 
yeah, i forgot: oem volvo parts are perfect in every way unless johnv sells the upgraded part, then that is exactly what everyone needs

did you ever find out what lawrence's double valve spring rate was? because i'm sure you would give those your seal of approval
 
Yeah more like "I know what the book says, and the econo spring are 80 lbs/sq in stiffer, but nobody I know has checked or even thinks about that so I'm going to cover my ears and say LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-LA-

So you you
head-in-sand.png


In true Turbopricker fashion.:roll:

Aren't those "economy" shizz some type of VW spring? If so, not something I would install at all. Maybe stick with something made for a Volvo head? :e-shrug:
 
Aren't those "economy" shizz some type of VW spring? If so, not something I would install at all. Maybe stick with something made for a Volvo head? :e-shrug:

it's just a damn spring. the 16v guys upgrade to ford springs, you telling me that's wrong too?

yeah, it's longer than i'd like, but they're installed in a car that has had ZERO problems related to that for over 2 years(mostly sitting), i can get in and crank it up with zero problems, and i've run a used stock belt and now running a kevlar belt just because they were on sale

they're the same diameter, similar seat heights, just aftermarket so they made them taller to get the seat pressure up, really no different than if you shimmed under a stock valve spring to raise the seat pressure(except you'll run into coil bind sooner)

but i guess you could call some company in sweeden for something made for a volvo - that will probably look very similar to what i got on ebay for $40
 
I never said anything was right or wrong. I just said I wouldn't use them. That's my preference. I like things made for my engine is all.
 
it's just a damn spring. the 16v guys upgrade to ford springs, you telling me that's wrong too?

No silly boy. Because it has the right seat pressure and will accept the lift we ude and isn't absurd over the nose..
In short, because I/we have checked the numbers...
yeah, it's longer than i'd like, but they're installed in a car that has had ZERO problems related to that for over 2 years(mostly sitting), i can get in and crank it up with zero problems, and i've run a used stock belt and now running a kevlar belt just because they were on sale

That you know of, and it seems you don't WANT to know...
they're the same diameter, similar seat heights, just aftermarket so they made them taller to get the seat pressure up, really no different than if you shimmed under a stock valve spring to raise the seat pressure(except you'll run into coil bind sooner)

Gawddamn you just talk crap. Volvo book new is around 65-67lbs at installed hgt.
Not a lot because there's no dumb lifter, no 15" pushrod, no stupid rocker, no 2.25" valve that weighs a ton and no rad ass cam slamming valves open...

Those silly VW things are in the 143-145 lbs on the seat..
Who knows open. I don't cause I rejected them in the mid 80s.:oops:

Why don't you go educate yourself elesewhere about excessive valve spring pressure

Instead of saying "I have no idea what's going on but I haven't seen any problem (YET!)"

Cause others have...no reason not to learn from others blunders.
(I killed a nose on a cam in under 3000 miles with seat pressure around 140 set up by a extremely dishonest head case who did 140+ despite me saying don't exceed 90.. After replacing the cam---this was in a V4 requiring heads off front of engine off---and replacing springs , I now always check before myself, no trust..)

Shimming a spring might bump you up 4-8 lbs, maybe.
 
so johnv's gm t5 is off the table? sorry johnv, he'd rather have a m46 that was made for a volvo

That's a transmission, not an engine part. There are parts made to mate the two safely. Deeworks, Ben's, Avalanche, etc. Lest I can stick one of those in my cylinder head, I don't see a comparison here.
 
i don't care what you run, just saying, it's a spring with the same diameter as the old kjet springs and the spring rate is higher than oem but still below double valve springs people went nuts for a few years ago, and they're cheaper than stock replacements

and my main point is, they mate to vw chromoly retainers - because oem retainers BREAK on stock cars/cams/etc. i don't plan on running stock retainers any longer than i have to on my 940(and i'm hoping the vw retainers fit the later model springs like they do the kjet springs)

if i had 90+ valve springs i would have ran those, i didn't, i went for the cheaper choice, aftermarket
 
I can't get these damn valve stem seals over the valve stems! The metal band at the base of the seal keeps coming off of the rubber seal. I've tried a 12mm deep socket, my fingers, nothing's working...
 
RSI's economy valve spring kit is just that, an economy valve spring kit. It's comparable to buying oem parts cost wise, but stronger. The spring rates haven't proven to cause any problems in any of the motors we have used them in (street cars, club racing, 12hr, 24hr & 36hr endurance racing). We have been using them for nearly 7 years now. The base washers are oem B21 parts that we get from the dealer, the springs and chromoly retainers are an aftermarket part that happens to also fit a VW.

If you want something better, you have to pay the better price. We could supply you with titanium retainers, base washers, springs with rates that are suited for your specific motor and use, but it is significantly more money.
 
So I ordered another new set of valve stem seals. I'm worried I may have scratched the new ones over the valve stems based on the horror stories I've read of people having them fail 50 miles later when they didn't lube up the valve stem.
-Is vasoline okay to use to get them over the valve guide and stem? That worked better than motor oil when I was practicing last night with the now spare set.
-Using a 12mm deep socket isn't working to install them, they get jammed way up into the socket instead of going over the guide. An 11mm is way too small though. Anyone got tips for this?
 
There's a little sleeve for fitting the stem seals, looks like a little valve stem condom :lol: slips over the end of the valve stem and stops the seals potentially getting damaged on the retainer grooves and also makes it super easy to install them.

There's a volvo part number for it, I can look up later if you like.

edit: Here it is! http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Volvo/Sleeve/1104298/1332645.html
 
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