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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Excellent! Love the oil pan baffle idea. Great work!

Thanks, Thomas! The funny thing is that I thought about how well that baffle would work, thinking I had thrown that whole oil pan away. For a few days I debated on what to do, then I actually looked in my shed and the pan was sitting right there.


Nice build, love the attention to detail. This thing's gonna be hoot!

Thanks, I hope so!
 
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More time wasting because I still can't start this thing...

A couple pages ago, I posted a photo of my sweet boost gauge mounted to the left of the steering wheel. I decided I also wanted oil pressure, which took that spot, and the boost gauge had to go somewhere else. I don't smoke, so the ash tray was the obvious spot. This is the trouble I went through just to put a boost gauge in a place where I can't see it very well.

Pulled the dash facia thing off, peeled the vinyl off. This is the square for the ash tray.




Cut out a steel gauge holder, that I would JB weld into the aluminum facia. It's actually JB welded to a larger piece, that's JB welded to the back of the aluminum for more surface area. Not my proudest moment, but I didn't feel like ordering 16ga aluminum.




Got the steel and the aluminum to stick, then I Bondoed over the front to smooth it out a bit.




Then I got out some vinyl and and Exacto.






And now I have a boost gauge instead of an ashtray. Meh.




I also got the oil pressure sender mounted with a stainless line from the hose shop.




Hopefully the next post will involve a Yoshifab manifold and burnouts...
 
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Hey Tfrasca, I like that remote oil pressure sender. Can you post some details about the hose, the fittings you used, etc.?
I added a Volvo Turbo oil gauge to my 142, but it is a tight fit under the exhaust manifold. Moving it over to the frame rail might be a cool option.
Thanks,
Steve
 
Hey Tfrasca, I like that remote oil pressure sender. Can you post some details about the hose, the fittings you used, etc.?
I added a Volvo Turbo oil gauge to my 142, but it is a tight fit under the exhaust manifold. Moving it over to the frame rail might be a cool option.
Thanks,
Steve

Hey Steve. I went to the local hose shop with the sender and asked them to make me a 22" stainless high pressure line that would fit a 1/8 NPT hole in the block. They set me up with a brass 1/8 NPT to 4an adapter for the block, the hose that they crimped 4an fittings onto, and another 4an to 1/8 NPT adapter for the sender side. The clamp is a 1.5" ID thing that I had to order because NO ONE stocks that size here in town.
 
Hey Steve. I went to the local hose shop with the sender and asked them to make me a 22" stainless high pressure line that would fit a 1/8 NPT hole in the block. They set me up with a brass 1/8 NPT to 4an adapter for the block, the hose that they crimped 4an fittings onto, and another 4an to 1/8 NPT adapter for the sender side. The clamp is a 1.5" ID thing that I had to order because NO ONE stocks that size here in town.

Thanks!
 
Pre-pump filter. I've read about problems with filters between the tank and the pump. As I understand it, if the filter gets restricted, the pump pulls a vacuum and the fuel evaporates causing vapor lock. The pre-filter only filters out the larger debris?
 
Pre-pump filter. I've read about problems with filters between the tank and the pump. As I understand it, if the filter gets restricted, the pump pulls a vacuum and the fuel evaporates causing vapor lock. The pre-filter only filters out the larger debris?

I read that too, but as I understand it, you want a higher flowing 10 micron filter before the pump. A typical filter that goes after the pump is more like 100 microns, usually.

Also, surface area plays a big role in a filter getting clogged, so you want to find something with a pleated cylindrical mesh element, instead of a single circular disc.

That's just what I gathered from reading a bit (https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/fuel-filtration/), but it seems logical to me.
 
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Well, I was supposed to be paying for a manifold for this build, but that ended up falling through. After some consideration, I decided to build one with Noah's help. That process is about 1/2 done. Here's an update, for posterity.

I bought a 3/8" plate and cut the flange out:


I was going to skip the velocity stacks, since I wasn't finding anything readily available in the correct size. Then I realized that I had some extra runner material, so I figured I'd try to make some. I made zero calculations, and none of this is based on science. I really just wanted to make some stacks.

Started out with some 42mm tube.


Hammered a steel cone into it to give it the taper.


Clamped a steel shelf thing to my bench for a 1/4" (ish) radius, and started tapping.


Found a drum sander thing that fit the ID of the tube, and chucked it up in the drill press. Proceeded to sand, a lot.


Several hours later, I now have this assortment of manifold parts. The stacks will get welded to the runners, unlike the photo.


Hopefully we will start to jig everything up and get it welded next week.
 
Forgot to mention, it has to be stainless-wrapped hose because it grounds through the threads.

I've done this in the past on other types of cars -- I just soldered a piece of copper wire to the body of the sender and then grounded the wire. An alternative if you don't want to use the wire braid hose.

Really nice work on this build.
 
I've done this in the past on other types of cars -- I just soldered a piece of copper wire to the body of the sender and then grounded the wire. An alternative if you don't want to use the wire braid hose.

Really nice work on this build.

Yup, that would definitely work. And thank you!
 
Dude! Whoa!

BTW, you can buy different length cheapie steel velocity stacks from aftermarket aircooled VW catalog companies like CIP1 or JBugs. CB Performance sells really nice die cast aluminum ones too. But what you did is way more awesome!
 
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