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Volvo 144 Simplest Performance Boost

There are heads with big valves and no injector ports. I wasn't aware they existed until recently when I sorted through my collection and found a couple of them.

Most people use a 7/8" welch plug to seal the injector ports. IPD evens sells them for this purpose.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6542/101302-expansion-plug-7-8-inch

We got plenty of them in Canada as we saw carb'ed cars until 1984! They're the best casting to work on.

WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T SEND A HEAD TO VPD. There...is that enough warning. Most of the magic is in the seat form. Just get it done by someone that knows what they're doing and doesn't do something stupid like make the exhaust port larger. Seriously - this has been beat to death.:e-shrug:
 
We got plenty of them in Canada as we saw carb'ed cars until 1984! They're the best casting to work on.

WHATEVER YOU DO DON'T SEND A HEAD TO VPD. There...is that enough warning. Most of the magic is in the seat form. Just get it done by someone that knows what they're doing and doesn't do something stupid like make the exhaust port larger. Seriously - this has been beat to death.:e-shrug:

Haha, definitely not sending to VPD. OK, so I'm SUPER confused. Everything I've read in this thread seems to say that bringing the exhaust up to 38mm and raising compression is the thing to do.
 
Trying to understand, if I'm getting a new head to keep my old one as a backup, etc, what all do I need. Talked to John V and it sounds like great first steps are higher compression, 38mm exhaust, and "root around in the bowls", which sounds pretty much the same as what JohnMC said. It also sounds like new valve springs are vital. SO, along with a new head core, I'll need 38mm exhaust valves, valves that match the new head (If it's an F head that's 44mm, correct?), and what else?
 
what canuk is trying to say about the exhaust ports is at the short side radius to the flange, DO NOT OPEN that area up. Actually, what would be ideal (from my reading) is to weld up the port floor from the flange to the SSR about 1/4" thick and then port on that. Cleaning up the bowls and whatnot around the guide and seat is a good idea.
 
what canuk is trying to say about the exhaust ports is at the short side radius to the flange, DO NOT OPEN that area up. Actually, what would be ideal (from my reading) is to weld up the port floor from the flange to the SSR about 1/4" thick and then port on that. Cleaning up the bowls and whatnot around the guide and seat is a good idea.

Yeah, I read that as well. Honestly, I'm super new to all of this, but John V clearly knows what he's doing, so I'm confident he's not going to point me in the direction of a stupid mistake. :) He also knows a guy that does work on heads, so I trust that I'm not going to a novice machinist. Just to make 100%, him saying to open the exhaust to 38mm makes sense, right?
 
what canuk is trying to say about the exhaust ports is at the short side radius to the flange, DO NOT OPEN that area up. Actually, what would be ideal (from my reading) is to weld up the port floor from the flange to the SSR about 1/4" thick and then port on that. Cleaning up the bowls and whatnot around the guide and seat is a good idea.

Full marks. Measured for your convenience.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5281496&postcount=101

Full story here:

http://calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2227&start=285

Engine building 101 here:

http://calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2699

I welded up the port with NiRod and then ported from there. You can also gain some flow on the intake by turning the round port into a D with a little Devcon or JB-Weld.

I'm also working on a stainless header that can have a tab welded in...but that's a bit longish term right now.
 
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