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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

nope. Mig only puts the heat on that small area. you need something like a Tig and some thick welding rod to make it work. A higher amperage mig might work just fine, but I would'nt risk it (but I have access to that stuff anyway thankfully so)
 
MIght just reweld the bugger and put it back on, revisit the whole exhaust side of the engine next year...
 
Thanks for the pics John......is there anyway to lower the PS pump by rebuilding the mount?
 
Thanks for the pics John......is there anyway to lower the PS pump by rebuilding the mount?

not really. it sits on top of a 'shelf'. Easiest thing to do is convert to the remote reservoir pump, shouldn't be that much of a hassle (I mean hey.. them's the knocks ;) ), both are pretty common in the jy's.
 
nope. Mig only puts the heat on that small area. you need something like a Tig and some thick welding rod to make it work. A higher amperage mig might work just fine, but I would'nt risk it (but I have access to that stuff anyway thankfully so)

I feel differently about that. My mig penetrates just dandy and then some. Well hell, welds through 1/2" steel just fine.
 
not really. it sits on top of a 'shelf'. Easiest thing to do is convert to the remote reservoir pump, shouldn't be that much of a hassle (I mean hey.. them's the knocks ;) ), both are pretty common in the jy's.

I saw them all over the place last time. I'm going tomorrow, now suitable jinxed I won't see a single one.
 
I feel differently about that. My mig penetrates just dandy and then some. Well hell, welds through 1/2" steel just fine.

Mine's some cheap Campbell Hausfeld. It's done a fine job of keeping the PV in one piece over the years, it can do sheet metal. But headers, maybe a little over it's pay rate. Although it did hang together for 2 years.
 
I only ask, because this is a problem on an 8v motor as well. And I have 2 members that want to keep the integral resvoir pump. So Im being sent a setup to either redesign a couple one off plenums, or lower the pump if theres room to whats under it.
 
I think there's a *little* bit of room under there before it would hit the a/c compressor. But you'd need a fair amount of room to actually make the lid removable - it has that dipstick attachment underneath.
 
Double post. Sort of how I left that alternator on the counter at the PnP and had to go back to get it.
 
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Remote reservoir PS pump on, intake manifold now fits.

I also got some cute littler alternator from a 940, seems to be a direct fit, it's a fair amount smaller, and it's 100A vs. 80A from the larger 240 alternator. I put it on, it seems fine. It was a little snug between the turbo and alternator before, plus the alternator would hit the oil pressure sender when you tried to get it loose enough to take the belts off.

Messed around with a throttle spool and got that tweaked around and fit onto Nathan's manifold.

Also got an A/C return line from a 940, instead of going straight up from the compressor (where it ran into Nathan's intake manifold) and over the top of the motor in the 240 style, it goes down, has a flex line across the crossmember, to a fairly out of the way hard line along the far frame rail and up to the receiver/drier. It doesn't fit perfectly on a 240, since it's a little narrower, but I think it will work well with a tweak or two.
 
I'm 95% resigned to putting the same exhaust side back onto the car. I'm running out of time and money, that ram's horn hearder isn't going to fit in well with A/C and I'm not really wanting to bother with making new oil lines and DP for a new turbo right now, so I think the log mani and Chinese GT30R are going to go back on.

I guess I'll tackle a front mount and different turbo next year. So I'll just see how much it's better with the head, cams, intake, and electronics upgrades.
 
I dunno man, that surge sounded nasty.

I'm not entirely sure that was surge, might have been some MS hiccups. They seemed more likely to occur when the engine was cooler (E85 seems to like a hot motor?), and when the motor was nice and hot it would crack off real clean full boost pulls. Which makes me sort of think it wasn't surge? And if it was, maybe improving the flow through the head (intake, ports, cams, up until it hits the log) might help?

I just need to get that log mani welded back up with something better than my 110V MIG. Maybe I should troll CL for a better welder, and run some 220V out to the garage. Or jsut take it to a welding shop, probably the better idea.
 
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I'm not entirely sure that was surge, might have been some MS hiccups. They seemed more likely to occur when the engine was cooler (E85 seems to like a hot motor?), and when the motor was nice and hot it would crack off real clean full boost pulls. Which makes me sort of think it wasn't surge? And if it was, maybe improving the flow through the head (intake, ports, cams, up until it hits the log) might help?

I just need to get that log mani welded back up with something better than my 110V MIG. Maybe I should troll CL for a better welder, and run some 220V out to the garage. Or jsut take it to a welding shop, probably the better idea.

if you want me to, send it to me and I'll weld it back up. Shipping both ways will be cheaper then buying a 220v welder
 
I'm not entirely sure that was surge, might have been some MS hiccups. They seemed more likely to occur when the engine was cooler (E85 seems to like a hot motor?), and when the motor was nice and hot it would crack off real clean full boost pulls. Which makes me sort of think it wasn't surge? And if it was, maybe improving the flow through the head (intake, ports, cams, up until it hits the log) might help?

I just need to get that log mani welded back up with something better than my 110V MIG. Maybe I should troll CL for a better welder, and run some 220V out to the garage. Or jsut take it to a welding shop, probably the better idea.

or an exhaust shop.
 
I don't know if this has been discussed, but is the log mani better for flows than a 90+ with an adapter flange?
 
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