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Old 03-09-2011, 01:50 AM   #151
nathaninwa
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Along with drilling holes in my head where the gasket had some, but it did not, I just got done doing this.


Here are some pics showing my water bypass from the head, and the passengers block. All plumbed to a 12v solenoid on the pass frame rail and then to the suction side of the pump via the old water cooled turbo location.

you can the stainless tube snake from the rear most head port.



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.
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and poken from the block dumping by the power steering pump.



.
.
.
and onto the solenoid. Its controlled via the ecu and will meet an RPM and Boost critieria (something like 3000rpm and 10psi) to open and releive block pressure for a very short period of time.

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Old 03-09-2011, 04:55 AM   #152
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Let's talk more about this mod.
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:18 AM   #153
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I tried both Volvo pulleys on the stock balancer. The larger one still popped the plugs, so I made a pulley from a sbc that was 1 inch larger in diamter. Worked out to be close to 1800rpm slower at redline. But my idle cooler suffered, horribly. Once it warmed up, the logs showed like 1 degree drop in temp about every minute, and theres a pretty badass fan on it. So during this mini rebuild I reistalled the larger of the Volvo pulleys but wanted to relief the block pressure we talked about on page one.

So to ebay I went and found a 30.00, brass, 12v, 3/8 solenoid valve. Found the 2 ports....not sure if the head will help as much as the one really close to the waterpump outlet under the header. and origially was going to dump into the thermostat housing....but since I have a non watercooled turbo I still had the suction port on the lower hose. And since I was having troubles fitting/making look decent the valve under the intake, it was a natural fit on the pasengers frame rail.

My EMS has programmable outputs, but I bet a simple hobbs switch would work too.

And scottyd, one of them led's on my dash is for this mod too. lower right corner I have a blue led that will come on to at least tell me the relay has been triggered.
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:20 AM   #154
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double post
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:31 PM   #155
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Hm. Interesting. So the holes you added in the head. Are these like the steam holes seen in some of the 8v heads? What diameter?
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:55 PM   #156
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good idea, but would it have been easier to just use one of the freeze plugs as a port? like a screw in plug, drill/tap that and send that to the solenoid. well that's what i was thinking a while back, and if you really wanted to find which was the worst plug, and how much the mod changed it you could tap all of them and measure the pressure on each before and after the bypass. but that's just some crazy **** i think up from time to time, usually not practical
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:04 PM   #157
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Qwkswde......I did the group a mod way back in the first page I think. But I did not add the extra holes along the exhaust side......just drilled the blind holes on the head...but present in the block and gasket. That's where my gasket was starting to fail. I drilled a 3/16 hole......I think there was 3 of them....front drivers side and 2 along the back by njumber 4.

Olov.....would take some time to figure which plug had the pressure. When mine failed the first time....I lost the rear 2 on exhaust and forward on the intake side. There were 3 others that were flush with the block and not even with the chamfer. You have a good idea about tapping the block....but from what I'm seeing...the bores are very close to the plugs so you'd almost need to start the hole...the cut the die up and finish tapping. And with my engine installed....a bit more work than what I wanted. And the valve is only 3/8 pipe.....any larger and the solenoids get huge.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:05 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathaninwa View Post
Qwkswde......I did the group a mod way back in the first page I think. But I did not add the extra holes along the exhaust side......just drilled the blind holes on the head...but present in the block and gasket. That's where my gasket was starting to fail. I drilled a 3/16 hole......I think there was 3 of them....front drivers side and 2 along the back by njumber 4.

Olov.....would take some time to figure which plug had the pressure. When mine failed the first time....I lost the rear 2 on exhaust and forward on the intake side. There were 3 others that were flush with the block and not even with the chamfer. You have a good idea about tapping the block....but from what I'm seeing...the bores are very close to the plugs so you'd almost need to start the hole...the cut the die up and finish tapping. And with my engine installed....a bit more work than what I wanted. And the valve is only 3/8 pipe.....any larger and the solenoids get huge.
or make freeze plugs with a hose connection in the middle of it, and weld em in.
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:55 PM   #159
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Has anybody tried using an auxiliary electric water pump? Various turbo cars use them, Focus RS etc, they're available from Bosch with magnetic drive and 19mm hose connections. I'm toying with the idea of plumbing one into the heater hose outlet and wiring it into the fan control so it only works when the engine gets hot and increase flow through the head.
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:31 PM   #160
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so has any determined a simple pulley change to change how much pressure the cooling system makes?
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:14 PM   #161
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I dont know about pressure....but I can tell you that with the stock harmonic balancer....and the early larger water pump pulley...the cooling is a good match for low idle speed cooling and I bet overall pressure. I made a pulley that was one inch larger than the large stock pulley, and it would take forever for the cooling fan to cool the motor at idle....like at a long stop light or drivethrough...Id say 5 min. Now with the large stock pulley on, takes about on min to cool the motor at idle.

Here is a cut and paste from my build thread.

And Ill post this in the waterpump thread but I observed something while cruising....its pretty wierd. I have a pretty efficient cooling system, and since going back to the stock early large waterpump pulley, the cooling fan can cool the motor down from 213* to 193* in about a minute. But while cruising down I5 at speed (75mph) theres those times when you lift for a down hill grade.....coming up to pass someone. Anyways, like most EFI systems, the injectors get cut. During that 1/4 to 1/2 mile decel or when testing from 75 to 60mph.....the motor will cool down from the constant 190* it runs to almost 180*. Just that brief time that fuel is cut and there is no heat in the combustion chamber....allows the motor to cool. The it takes about a mile to get it back to 190*. There was times before this that I saw the temp guage lower than normal but could never figure out why. So i can only imagine the heat in the cylinders at 25psi! Looking at my logs, I only gain about 1 degree in water temps during the dyno pull.
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Old 05-24-2011, 08:49 AM   #162
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what radiator did you end up going with, Nathan?
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:11 PM   #163
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Its an alum radiator from a Ford Aerostar.. Its a 2 core setup. I welded some large tanks on it. Off the top of my head, core size is like 22x19. Its about the size of the NPR intercooler..
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:27 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathaninwa View Post
Along with drilling holes in my head where the gasket had some, but it did not, I just got done doing this.


Here are some pics showing my water bypass from the head, and the passengers block. All plumbed to a 12v solenoid on the pass frame rail and then to the suction side of the pump via the old water cooled turbo location.

you can the stainless tube snake from the rear most head port.



.
.
.
and poken from the block dumping by the power steering pump.



.
.
.
and onto the solenoid. Its controlled via the ecu and will meet an RPM and Boost critieria (something like 3000rpm and 10psi) to open and releive block pressure for a very short period of time.

is this for real. you think that the lack of a little solenoid was the reason your freeze plugs are still falling out.

I bet its a pretty desperate situation your in if these things keep falling out. but your engine is seriously blown up and no solenoid is gonna fix a warped engine block. not trying to be a jerk but why is this thread still around?

easy solution:
get another block at the junk yard for like $150 take it to a machine shop to have the cylinders sized for your pistons $200. tell him to not mess with anything else just clean and hone. then put your pistons rods and crank in your head on
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:33 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burstcurse View Post
is this for real. you think that the lack of a little solenoid was the reason your freeze plugs are still falling out.

I bet its a pretty desperate situation your in if these things keep falling out. but your engine is seriously blown up and no solenoid is gonna fix a warped engine block. not trying to be a jerk but why is this thread still around?

easy solution:
get another block at the junk yard for like $150 take it to a machine shop to have the cylinders sized for your pistons $200. tell him to not mess with anything else just clean and hone. then put your pistons rods and crank in your head on
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:33 PM   #166
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As if we needed more proof that lead-based paint chips laced with crack are a poor choice for a bedtime snack...
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:46 PM   #167
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With crack? Psh, I eat 'em with asbestos.
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:47 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burstcurse View Post
is this for real. you think that the lack of a little solenoid was the reason your freeze plugs are still falling out.

I bet its a pretty desperate situation your in if these things keep falling out. but your engine is seriously blown up and no solenoid is gonna fix a warped engine block. not trying to be a jerk but why is this thread still around?

easy solution:
get another block at the junk yard for like $150 take it to a machine shop to have the cylinders sized for your pistons $200. tell him to not mess with anything else just clean and hone. then put your pistons rods and crank in your head on
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:20 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burstcurse View Post
is this for real. you think that the lack of a little solenoid
was the reason your freeze plugs are still falling out.

I bet its a pretty desperate situation your in if these things
keep falling out. but your engine is seriously blown up and no
solenoid is gonna fix a warped engine block. not trying to be a
jerk but why is this thread still around?

easy solution: get another block at the junk yard for like $150
take it to a machine shop to have the cylinders sized for your
pistons $200. tell him to not mess with anything else just clean
and hone. then put your pistons rods and crank in your head
on
When I first learned about the Dunning Kruger effect
it explained so much.

Unfortunately it also made me a little paranoid that I might
actually be a total fool and not realize it.

Nathan, that engine bay is hot!
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:58 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burstcurse View Post
is this for real. you think that the lack of a little solenoid was the reason your freeze plugs are still falling out.

I bet its a pretty desperate situation your in if these things keep falling out. but your engine is seriously blown up and no solenoid is gonna fix a warped engine block. not trying to be a jerk but why is this thread still around?

easy solution:
get another block at the junk yard for like $150 take it to a machine shop to have the cylinders sized for your pistons $200. tell him to not mess with anything else just clean and hone. then put your pistons rods and crank in your head on

And get it line honed, decked, and new aux bearings then have 2 more sleeves installed from normal 200k engine wear, your looking at almost 600, so wont do that again. I wish this thread was around when I was building my engine....I would not have blown them out at mile 50 or on the Dyno later on. A small solenoid might be overkill, but I know now there is limited pressure in the block and dont have to worry about dumping fluid on the drag strip.

To do it again, I would secure the freeze plugs with small number 8 screws and washers in about 3 locations, and probably still run some sort of bypass valve!

Maybe theres some of us that just have motor that rev RFN, and have potential problems revving to 8+k rpm
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:19 PM   #171
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My cooling system has started getting air pockets and spewing the coolant out of the resivor cap... i guess i need to read this thread better-_-
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:27 PM   #172
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Originally Posted by 940guy View Post
My cooling system has started getting air pockets and spewing the coolant out of the resivor cap... i guess i need to read this thread better-_-
or you have a blown head gasket....
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:31 PM   #173
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it did it with my 530 for a while just did a headgasket and put the 531 head on and it still does it only after i drive and hit the revlimiter.
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:18 PM   #174
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Lots of subjects in here, but I do want to address one - coolant pressure in the block at high rpm. A few posters have incorrectly assumed that the pressure in the block can never exceed the radiator cap pressure. If they'd draw a rudimentary cooling system diagram, they'd note that the cap is not installed between the pump and flow limiting orifice (thermostat) but on the "low pressure side" of the system, between the thermostat and the inlet to the pump.

I mention this because I have seen a number of people blow heater cores on small-block Fords... myself included. So I actually hooked up a pressure gauge in the engine block of my old 289 and left it installed for a month. What an eye-opener!

I would have never guessed that a stamped-steel impeller blade could ever be very efficient at making pressure, but wow... before the thermostat opens, I'd see 115 psi (yes, one hundred and fifteen) in the engine block / heater core at 6000 rpm! Of course, once the 'stat was fully open, my readings never exceeded radiator cap pressure by more than a couple psi.

It is quite dependent on impeller design. I also tested my Kawasaki motorcycle with an impeller that looks a lot like our turbo compressor wheels, and was surprised to only see that one create 7 psi pressure (above cap pressure) at 5000 rpm and the thermostat closed.

By the way, that plot of pressure vs. rpm on my 289 had a nice "squared-with-rpm" trend... so the difference between 6000 and 7500 rpm is substantial.

Seemed like this data needed to be posted as I've seen a number of posts here over the last year that ask if anyone has measured pressure, and it didn't seem like anyone had ever chimed in with test results. So there are mine, for two non-Volvo applications. Hope that helps.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:12 PM   #175
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I have only seen on post of an electric water pump that Sam has used. Has anyone else used one?
The one he posted is 20gph. I don't know what flow rate is reasonable.
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