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Old 01-22-2016, 06:10 PM   #26
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I've put a few 274's in engines over the years. When I contacted Schneider last year, they were not selling their grinds at that time. Maybe things have changed, they still list them on their website. Has anyone bought one in the last year?
I have not, but I might just need to pretty soon, I'm not sure that I'm going to like the K cam I have on the shelf for my turbo....
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:25 PM   #27
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The crank gear has three holes in the face. Unthreaded if I remember correctly.

Edit: yup that's it in the second pic.
Whoops, I meant the cam gear has three holes haha. I see what you guys are saying now. I have a steering wheel puller I can use on the crank.

About to post some pics!
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:03 PM   #28
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:11 PM   #29
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mmmm... crusty! I like it!
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:26 PM   #30
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mmmm... crusty! I like it!
What do you think, new valves? Or have them cleaned?
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:28 PM   #31
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Also I brought a digital caliper home from work only to find someone swiped my battery. So I just pulled the closest measurement I could. The bore appears to be right at 4.5". So my suspicion is that it's never been rebuilt.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:28 PM   #32
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What do you think, new valves? Or have them cleaned?
New please, a few of them look pretty chewed up.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:32 PM   #33
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Also, looks like a good candidate for a little shave, clean the rust out and cc those chambers, then you can start figuring your CR and what not. That block may need a little more than a hone and re-ring, might need to go oversize on your pistons, but have the machine shop check after tanking.

if you have the block bored or honed, have them deck it too.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:34 PM   #34
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The block appears to be mostly dirt/gunk. Unfortunately I don't think I have the funds to go oversize and replace all the valves on top of everything else.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:38 PM   #35
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have it checked, go from there. Depending on the valves, I have that head with good valves, they may be smaller though... not too sure.
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:19 PM   #36
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:59 PM   #37
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So you think I should take the head and block fully assembled to a machine shop? Or tear down and take them?

I'll have to measure the valves when I get a functioning caliper haha
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:14 PM   #38
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Disassemble the block and head. It will give you a better chance to see what the condition of the parts is like.

You should be checking the crank main and rod bearings. The machine shop can do the measurements for you; but, you could do a preliminary check with your calipers if the journals look OK. If the caliper measurements work out, you should plan for new shells and double check with plastigauge to make sure its OK. Probably better to just let the machine shop do the measurement!

Have the machine shop look at the valves. They may be able to clean some of them up; but, I bet the cost of cleaning them up will approach the cost of new valves. You should definitely be planning for new guides. Rock Auto used to sell B20 valves fairly cheap. Also, if you want to upgrade to the steel timing gears, Rock Auto sells the Cloyes steel gears at a real low price.

I think it will also be prudent to plan for replacement with O/S pistons. Those bores look pretty bad. That said, you might luck out and get away with new rings and a hone.

Planning for a clean up of the head and block surfaces would be good. Check the height of the pistons in the block. You will probably need to deck the block to at least get them flush. Depending on the head gasket you use (Cometic appears to sell the thinnest gasket) you may want to deck to get the piston crowns slightly above the deck height depending on what quench band you think you want. Getting a correct quench band will go along way to controlling the B20 detonation blues.

Last edited by 142 guy; 01-22-2016 at 10:32 PM..
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:08 AM   #39
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That's an older AQ130 than the one I have. Different head and it's got the 6 bolt crank. Should be steel cam gears and they should be ok.

What's the head look like where the car water pump fits? Looks like a plug there? You need the little copper pipe under the thermostat.

If you don't mind getting dirty a wire brush in a drill will clean up that head so you can look at it better. If the valves are pitted on the stems get new ones. Dropped valves really suck.
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:57 AM   #40
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By the way, going on the compression numbers you posted, even a stock B18 in good condition would be peppy in comparison. You will be ecstatic once you get a fresh motor in it. Car magazines of the day always wrote about how impressed they were with the B18/B20 lump.

I wasn't unhappy with my B18 even here at high altitude. I had 110 compression across all 4 cylinders and it held 70 on the freeway no problem. It would hold 50-55 up steep mountain hills too. By my calcs I was pushing maybe 60 wheel horsepower and it wasn't unpleasant to drive at all. I always kept up with traffic and merged on the freeway easily.

But this year some time it will be really fast. Oh yes, it will be really fast.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:38 AM   #41
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Yea it has the steel gears. I forgot to post a pic of them. They look mint!

I have that little copper pipe your referring too. I'll have to take a look at the head for the water pump.

I'll take a wire brush to the head later today. Ok to hit the tops of the Pistons as well? Just to see if it's carbon or sludge.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:40 AM   #42
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LloydDobler: Yea I really enjoy driving the car, it's just frustrating to hold traffic up while going up any hill/mountain haha. It need a little help, I just don't have the cash for a major overhaul/build.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:51 AM   #43
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You can't not to afford to rebuild. Reliability, mpg efficiency, and piece of mind for $1500~? Or you can go buy yourself a $1500 car and see what that gets you.

Take to machine shop. See what they say. Post on wanted for parts you need. That cyl #4 looks suspicious. Valves look toast. See what cam pops up in wanted. Etc....

While it's out zero deck that block. Clean the head so you have two flat mating surfaces. Then the b20 gurus will start telling you what head gasket to use exct..
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:53 AM   #44
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Pull the head apart then dunk it in vinegar overnight. Eat all that rust away.
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:40 PM   #45
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I have a new c cam, its got some shelf wear, but it will clean/polish up nicely, also I have a set if IPD "Hi rev" lifters and pushrods that are slightly used, but again a little polish on the face and they'd be good as new.

The gasket sets are easy to get for cheap (ask around for people who have them that they aren't going to use), and I would guess that a full rebuild (no balance) with new pistons would run less than 1k if you source your parts right. Seems that bearings are getting spendy, and that estimate is with very little machine work. My guy bores at 50$ per hole, and will do a deck for 40$ and shave the head for the same, so your prices may vary. These prices don't include measurements… He always says "I'll bore it if you bring me the pistons, I'll deck it if you can tell me how much to take off, and I'll shave it however much you want, but you gotta bring me the numbers because it's double if I have to measure anything Volvo."
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:59 PM   #46
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Well at least I have some time before I need the motor haha. Yesterday at noon we didn't have anything on the ground, 24hrs later...



Can you find the Amazon??? haha
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:06 PM   #47
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Shoveled my way to the garage and snapped a few pics...





Took a wire brush very briefly to the valve faces. Most came off, still look a bit pitted though...





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Old 01-23-2016, 03:11 PM   #48
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I've put a few 274's in engines over the years. When I contacted Schneider last year, they were not selling their grinds at that time. Maybe things have changed, they still list them on their website. Has anyone bought one in the last year?
I sent a B20 cam to them to be reground about a week ago. When I talked to Jerry over the phone, he didn't say much about lack of availability *except* that they don't have Volvo blanks on hand. Gotta send yours in.

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Old 01-23-2016, 03:29 PM   #49
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I sent a B20 cam to them to be reground about a week ago. When I talked to Jerry over the phone, he didn't say much about lack of availability *except* that they don't have Volvo blanks on hand. Gotta send yours in.

Cameron
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How much did he charge for the regrind?

Looks like blanks might be available from Skancar

http://volvoonderdelen.com/Amazon-22...-Volvo-600075/
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:34 PM   #50
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[QUOTE=carbonmike;5324241]How much did he charge for the regrind?/QUOTE]

Don't know yet. Said they'd call when it was done and that we'd handle the billing then...

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