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Old 06-29-2016, 02:34 AM   #1
yeastbeast
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Default 245 Turbo seeks sensible performance upgrades

Hi Turbobrickers,

I'm new to the forum and to 240s in general, so would like to introduce myself and my new 1984 245 Turbo.






This is my fifth Volvo. I currently own a 1973 1800ES, a 2004 V70R and a 2013 C30 PLE. My wrench skills are modest as my current cars haven't required much heavy torquing. After running out of reasonable performance enhancements to put into my V70R, I took a step back and bought this entry level project Turbo.

The 245 is currently bone stock with M46, B21FT but no intercooler (so MY1984 not 1984.5 I guess). All I've done so far is replace the farty exhaust manifold gaskets.

I'm aiming to bring this car to minimal performance standards (not yet sure what that entails) while improving my wrenchcraft.

I would appreciate your advice on which of the following performance-oriented projects I should queue up and how to approach them.

Things I'm considering:

-IPD swaybars: already bought them and aiming to put them in shortly

-Intercooler and boost control valve: I've read this page
and similar ones but am still pretty unclear on how to source all the components. Keen to hear your advice on the best path to intercooler install (OEM intercooler kit vs. aftermarket vs. parting out from a 740/760 Turbo)

-Limited slip differential: haven't done any homework on this yet

-Fog lights and harness: I foolishly picked up a pair of fogs from a 242GT and discovered they don't mount into the '84's coffin-style grille like the do into the GT's flathood grill. Still figuring out how to mount and wire them. Suggestions?

-Any other standard performance enhancements that you like to see? Speak up and advise.

Thanks in advance and looking forward to joining the Turbobrick community.

yeastbeast
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:35 AM   #2
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Put the sways on as you already have them, consider stage 0 or upgrade for the rest of suspension and brakes, then when you have that in check, turn towards engine modification.

Generaly, "stage 0" (tune-up) is the first thing to do, then intercooler... As for it, complete 240 kit is a bit hard to come by, 700 series one can be persuaded to fit, but I'd rather go with, if you can afford it, new aftermarket intercooler and new hardlines/silicon fittings...
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Old 06-29-2016, 09:17 AM   #3
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Welcome to the forum!

Here's some links to start you off:
Staged Mods: http://turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0017
Stage0: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=28290
Performance FAQ: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=271886
K-jet docs: http://www.k-jet.org/documents/
Suggestions: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=269398
Suggestions: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=316766
K-Jet Tester: http://www.turbobricks.org/forums/sh....php?p=4794677
K-Jet Testing: http://cleanflametrap.com/kjetGauge.htm
Greenbooks: http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/

I'd start with full Stage0 fixup and an intercooler.

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Old 06-29-2016, 12:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordmaschine View Post
Generally, "stage 0" (tune-up) is the first thing to do, then intercooler... As for it, complete 240 kit is a bit hard to come by, 700 series one can be persuaded to fit, but I'd rather go with, if you can afford it, new aftermarket intercooler and new hardlines/silicon fittings...
The intercooler is the same between 240s and pre-92 740s, but the 240 upper support brackets are hard to come by. The 740 brackets can work if you add a spacer between the bracket and the slam panel.

The 240 intercooler piping shows up on eBay from time to time and some members here may also be willing to sell a set.
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:28 PM   #5
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Thanks, all! I'll do some homework on Stage 0 and intercooler. Nice GLT there, Bobzyx--- I like the round headlights.
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:28 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
The intercooler is the same between 240s and pre-92 740s, but the 240 upper support brackets are hard to come by. The 740 brackets can work if you add a spacer between the bracket and the slam panel.
Would a '88 760 intercooler and piping work?
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeastbeast View Post
Would a '88 760 intercooler and piping work?
The 700 stuff kinda sorta corn cobs in there but you'll still need the TIC cold side elbow.



What you really need is all of this...
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:31 AM   #8
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Or, you can do what I did and go to the B21F intake with the 700 series intercooler pipe. Only problem, is that you'll lose power steering if you plan to keep AC. If AC is coming off, then use a non-AC PS bracket to move the pump downward.

Pardon the mess, but, was doing a water pump reseal job at the time. I still had the PS pump installed, but, it was adjusted as inward as possible to provide room for the intercooler pipe.



Here's how it looks from the driver's side. Also, note the removal of the PS pump. Distributor cap is off a Golf III with the 2.0 liter inline 4...



-J
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Old 07-14-2016, 03:17 AM   #9
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Thanks, Redwood-- this is super helpful. Apologies for the late reply --- I was on a long road trip in my R and wasn't thinking about the 245.

Some questions:

-how many of these hoses and pipes are shared between the 240, 740 or 760 models?

-How much should I attempt to salvage from wrecked 740s and 760s, which are abundant in my area? Which parts am I better off buying new (if at all possible)?

- Is the TIC package uniform across the 700 series or different between 740 and 760? In particular, there's a 760 nearby with turbo and intercooler and I want to confirm that it's got what I want before I go out pulling.

Thanks again,

Yeastbeast


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The 700 stuff kinda sorta corn cobs in there but you'll still need the TIC cold side elbow.



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Old 07-14-2016, 03:28 AM   #10
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Thanks, Blue. I'm thinking about whether or not keep the AC, which isn't working and isn't really needed, so this is definitely and option. Can you clarify:

-Do you mean the PS pump bracket out of a 240 w/o AC positions the pump lower and allows fitting in the 700 series intercooler pipe?

-Or do I have to remove AC and bracket then find another place to mount the PS pump?


Yeastbeast

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue245Ti View Post
Or, you can do what I did and go to the B21F intake with the 700 series intercooler pipe. Only problem, is that you'll lose power steering if you plan to keep AC. If AC is coming off, then use a non-AC PS bracket to move the pump downward.

Pardon the mess, but, was doing a water pump reseal job at the time. I still had the PS pump installed, but, it was adjusted as inward as possible to provide room for the intercooler pipe.



Here's how it looks from the driver's side. Also, note the removal of the PS pump. Distributor cap is off a Golf III with the 2.0 liter inline 4...



-J
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Old 07-14-2016, 06:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeastbeast View Post
-how many of these hoses and pipes are shared between the 240, 740 or 760 models?

-How much should I attempt to salvage from wrecked 740s and 760s, which are abundant in my area? Which parts am I better off buying new (if at all possible)?

- Is the TIC package uniform across the 700 series or different between 740 and 760? In particular, there's a 760 nearby with turbo and intercooler and I want to confirm that it's got what I want before I go out pulling.
The intercooler from the 760 will work for you (it's the same as the 240/740 unit), but the piping will be different than what you really need for your 240 w/ Kjet.

Personally I'd pull turbo/intercooler/piping and resell what you don't need if you can get it all for a deal.
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Old 07-14-2016, 12:23 PM   #12
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Thanks!

To probe further, is the piping from a 740 compatible with a 240 w/Kjet? I.e. should I keep looking for a 740 Turbo IC donor car? Alternatively, I could pull the IC from the 760 on hand and source the 240 piping elsewhere. My inclination is to spend a day on the 760, pull everything and compare with Redwood Chair's pic to see what else I need.

yeastbeast


Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
The intercooler from the 760 will work for you (it's the same as the 240/740 unit), but the piping will be different than what you really need for your 240 w/ Kjet.

Personally I'd pull turbo/intercooler/piping and resell what you don't need if you can get it all for a deal.

Last edited by yeastbeast; 07-14-2016 at 02:06 PM..
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Old 07-14-2016, 02:11 PM   #13
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No it's all different, but like I say it can be corn-cobbed in there....
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:53 PM   #14
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Got it, Redwood. I don't suppose you have a spare 240 coldside elbow or any of other piece of the 240-specific piping laying around? I'd like to do as little as corncobbing as possible.

Here's another question: what's the best technique to up the boost after installing IC? According to this page:

You will need a calibrated boost gauge for this procedure. Adjust turbo boost to10 psi by shortening the vent hose (not more than 3 in. at a time), use third or fourth gear for testing. NOTE: you could use a boost control valve instead of the long vent hose. You would place the "T" closer to the air pipe.

Any thoughts or experiences with these two methods--- boost control valve (if so, where to get one?) vs. gradual hose shortening?

Along similar lines, has anyone had luck with auxiliary air intake mods or does this just hopelessly confuse K-Jet?
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:43 PM   #15
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A manual adjustable boost controller is much better than a bleeder set-up. They are usually in the $30-90 range.
My personal favorite is the Forge I use on my personal cars and several customers cars.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/142011729138

If you can't find that cold side elbow, I have a few, but don't usually sell parts so try sourcing one somewhere else first as mine will be expensive.
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:07 PM   #16
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The ICBS kit is quite a bit of stuff...



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Old 07-15-2016, 06:26 AM   #17
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This is another manual boost controller alternative:
https://yoshifab.com/store/manual-boost-controller.html
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Old 07-15-2016, 11:18 PM   #18
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This is another manual boost controller alternative:
https://yoshifab.com/store/manual-boost-controller.html
Or make the same thing from the same parts from home depot for half the price.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:12 AM   #19
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I'm surprised that none of you have suggested OP fit an NPR inter-cooler.

It will make for lower intake air temps with less restriction then Volvo cores.

Requires little fiddling to fit.

OP they come up in the 'for sale' forum every so often.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:20 AM   #20
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Also be aware that if you intercool and turn up the boost, your stock non intercooler clutch & pressure plate may not be up to the task. Kind of a 'one thing leads to another' scenario. You can use the B230 style intake (740/940) and keep ac, but you'll have to fill the injector holes in the manifold and fiddle with the throttle body a bit.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:32 AM   #21
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I have some spare 9 series ic piping if you need it
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Old 07-16-2016, 02:01 PM   #22
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The intake isn't terribly restrictive. The exhaust/wastegate housing/intercooler sure is, as is the cylinder head. Everyone wants to change the intake, the B21F/ N/A k-jet intake does flow better, but in terms of more power, it's kinda like breathing through a drinking straw to get everything through the stock head/exhaust & exhaust manifold /wastegate housing/intercooler even if you change the intake..

The direct drop in D088 intercooler looks decent as well, heard good things\, or NPR with custom tabs to drop it in the Volvo without hacking anything up or drastically re-routing anything. Nothing bad can come of more efficient charge air cooling. No compromise win, all metal instead of likely leaky/fragile plastic end tanks isn't bad either. The way the stock IC fits and it's size/packaging is great, just could be more efficient. I'd intercool it with all the stock stuff and drop it in no fuss for now? Maybe buy the drop in DO88 intercooler later? A 3-row radiator and tropical fan clutch is nice for cooling longevity.

84.5 they put a stiffer pressure plate in a few of them with the flat flywheel still. The transmission won't last much longer and everything gets expensive and often compromised or on the ragged edge somewhere to have a balanced well rounded out car beyond ~200-250hp. YMMV.

On a 240T, once you determine the engine is healthy and FI is healthy, you can break the whole drivetrain without a lot of compromise or modification...
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Old 07-16-2016, 03:38 PM   #23
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If you want most of the parts needed without trying to find everything from different sources, this member has a decent kit available. Not cheap though. You do have to click on the ebay ad to get the full details on whats included.

http://turbobricks.com/forums/showth...ht=intercooler
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:40 AM   #24
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Thanks to everyone for the good suggestions. What I've learn so far is that there are several routes to IC, ranging from salvage from 700 series wrecks to OEM TIC kits to modern aftermarket components, but no one path stands out as the easiest or cheapest. My inclination is to stick with salvaged parts and maybe spring for the 240-specific cold side elbow.

Still unclear about the long-term consequences of upping the boost and what additional mods are essential if I put in IC.
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:50 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by yeastbeast View Post
Thanks to everyone for the good suggestions. What I've learn so far is that there are several routes to IC, ranging from salvage from 700 series wrecks to OEM TIC kits to modern aftermarket components, but no one path stands out as the easiest or cheapest. My inclination is to stick with salvaged parts and maybe spring for the 240-specific cold side elbow.

Still unclear about the long-term consequences of upping the boost and what additional mods are essential if I put in IC.
Yea well that box of IBS goodies was $1K in the 80's when money was worth double what it is today.

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