Microsquirt 16v+t

Pressing it into the flywheel , a few manufacturers do that already. Red locktite.

They also sell snout extensions, but that seems risky as hell.

Kenny you son of..., you got my #420 post..

More parts, more work, more cubic dollars lost. Wilwood pedal and Master, egt probe, and the rest, well ya already know.

not surprised to see that you're doing it right! with the power you're making ( bet you already know what im about to say) you have to make sure that your driveshaft angles are dialed in.

The driveshaft angle isn't going to change much, if at all, hopefully. I don't know about doing it right, this is my first time for any kind of trans swap. I'm new and I don't know what to do, so I'm winging it .

A few updates. I got the pedal in. Amazing how close the two original Volvo clutch pedal holes are for the bolts. However they are kicked off diagonally, and the Wilwood pedal requires straight up and down. Note this is also a floor mount pedal. I used original center large hole, removed the backing plate held on by two nuts. Then I re-drilled the two holes. The master was fun getting in there, but it made it , and i moved the harness and master cylinder reservoir for the brakes, off the master. I used a full size portable drill for bottom hole , had to use my 90 degree air drill for the top one, and did it inside the car.

I used the supplied nuts and bolts with the pedal, and took about an hour to tighten both up, they barely squeezed through to the pedal. Fitment isn't perfect, but it sure feels good to the foot. In order to make it perfect i would have to cut on the pedal bracket that kicks the pedal off slightly to the left.The reason it kicks off to the left is that shiny Stock Volvo bracket has a fold in it right above the two bolts, and that kicks it off in a way that's not fun. Also maybe the holes i drilled,may have some things to be desired. I should have pulled all the pedals off and flattened that metal. Meh. I am not that concerned about it. I can adjust the pedal further up or back and it all fits snug.







Master in there somewhere.









Used throw out bearing, looks like it had an oops at one time.





I am anxiously awaiting the trans blanket from jeggs in the mail as well as a dodge Nascar flywheel to use as a spacer on the Volvo flywheel to bring the splines into the first clutch disk hub, as they do not reach the first clutch disc at all, if configured like in above picture. I could have used another floater disc and machined it down. However if i use the dodge flywheel, i can just machine dodge flywheel down flat and bolt it on the STS (as a spacer and clutch surface for first clutch) once the holes are drilled and tapped and no machined will have to be done to the sts one, except drill and tap 6 holes. Now i have to go find hose hardware to link the master and slave. Then i have to cut a notch in the adapter plate to allow it to clear the Gm/Volvo trans adapter. Then i will have to notch the the gm bellhousing. Then on to driveshaft and trans mount and shifter... A lot of work, more than, even i , thought.

Trimmed some off the adapter plate today for the crank trigger , and trimmed a notch off the t56/lt1 bell housing to clear the stock Volvo flywheel sensor . Wasn't my best work, but whatever, function over fashion I recon.

Got some trans bolts . Need to get adapter bolts.

Got my dodge Nascar flywheel in today.Pretty darned light! It will act as a spacer, an clutch surface, to allow first clutch disc to hit splines. Just need to machine the back of the dodge flywheel to make room for the Volvo flywheel bolts. Amazing how close the bolt pattern is !

Finally back from Txt2k17 at baytown. Voo Doo did well, but did not make it to finals. Frank ran a PB of 7.5x at 185 mph.Everyone that came with him ran a pb. He didnt have to change much of the tunes from vegas, the air here is better than vegas air atm, with the exception of the humidity. So many people there.After working with them, cant help but think, my car posts on here are pointless. I feel so slow, hanging out with those guys .

Awww come on. You made it this far

I did loan some t bolt clamps, and gave two silicone couplers and a pipe to one mustang from voo doo , in hopes to get the t bolt clamps back with some contagious 9.7 second, hp sweat on them. Mr Todd Rpert was pretty slick and gave me new t bolt clamps back, shux.


This was also out there Billy's Ls 1 turbo 245.Talked to him for a few seconds.


https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-0/p480x480/17349806_10155194819727112_9171242708113375003_o.jpg?oh=8960359286fa70fc021c572458538196&oe=5952B6A0



Lacking motivation.

Frank Yee, used to be a member here in 2000, maybe still is. Met him here.
https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17200860_10155199288832112_5243124495624712405_n.jpg?oh=f09744905b9ba7c4491233eb5646edf6&oe=59531B59



His wife's car


https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17424678_10155200438902112_2045357780058989280_n.jpg?oh=ba2d1e0b82039e76344f3434533d181c&oe=596CB1BD

I meant to ask, I'm not privy to the workings of that clutch set-up.... how does it work exactly? toothed clutches and ish.?

It works the same as a regular clutch . basically the toothed discs are floaters, and the remain still for a front and rear clutch surface area for each disc. It has a pressure plate on it and still engages and disengages via a hydraulic throw-out bearing. The hydraulic throw out bearing- when clutch pedal is pressed -will hit the pressure plate fingers and loosen the tension on the pressure plate ring inside and lift up, removing all tension all three clutches so they disengage from the trans and engine.

Just some pics atm, I was procrastinating and walking around taking pics of various things, oh and a pic of the car I helped with parts off my own car and YOLO douchebag, great fun seeing him, and then going-why is he so familiar? LOL.



I probably should be raking the leaves but..




This lump is coming out.




But first lets aimlessly roam around the garage taking pics, instead of really doing any work. I call it checking for misplaced tools. Checking inventory.
Just being lazy really.
















I got too lazy to focus?




IDK, back to work I recon.

haha.. that turbo has this fancy OEMish look

Got motivated again by watching txt2k17 videos of everything I didn't see when I was there. Here we go..

First, out with slushbox lump.





Improvise , Adapt, Overcome.






Bottom right hand side bolt had to be removed after pic as it hit the 350 bellhousing.





Drivers side starter and adapter clearance.






Passenger side clearance.




Factory auto Console.






Get out, and stay out.









Shifter needs a bendy pooh.





And some shortening.










Reverse switch hits tunnel close to tailshaft on drivers side, needs some BFH.



Hits on drivers side, more persuasion needed. Those are the transmission to bellhousing bolt ears on both sides of the tunnel hitting.

Maddog, Yeah it's factory . LOL . The hx52 , has the billet wheel in front , but appears it was in a fire, (probably from a "highway to hell " crashed semi) that carbon will not come off that wheel. I tried scrubbing bubbles and the carbon looked at the bubbles and said "no" . .

After putting this 6 speed manual on the back of the engine, and taking the trans back off, i made some adjustments with the hammer. Spent about an hour whacking at various spots with two different bfh.

In the tunnel, all the way up. Bolts on passenger side of cross member almost reach.




After 7 attempts best pic i could get, time for new phone I recon. What we are looking at is the t56 bolted up to the Lt 1 bellhousing, with a gm trans adapter, and the t56 snout reaches and goes into the Volvo crank maybe 1/4 inch. Note how far back the splines start, this is why Dodge flywheel spaced on top of STS flywheel. The machine shop now has a Volvo crank shaft, a Volvo auto pilot bearing, and the sts flywheel and NASCAR Quarter Master, button 3 disc clutch with dodge flywheel. They are going to make spacers for the dodge flywheel, to STS flywheel, and drill and tap the STS flywheel, then make a pilot bushing to go through it all.






Got too crazy on passenger side tunnel.




Almost enough hammered in the trans tunnel, to allow the reverse switch -on the tail shaft to have some moving space.



Need to hammer out a little higher in the trans tunnel, to clear drivers side bellhousing, to transmission adapter , bolt hole- ears.





So back out again, then back in. Very fun lifting a t56 with a four by four block of wood at the back of the tail shaft, about 9 inches in the air to put on a transmission jack. After 4 attempts , my Young lady helped me ,and pushed the trans jack under, after - i lifted by grabbing hold of the input shaft, and using the fulcrum point of my elbows on the concrete. That longer transmission seems a bit heavier than a torque converter loaded in a aw71.. Maybe its me. Maybe its age, ha. Ughh my elbows, pads would be a better idea next time.


The shifter location has moved farther forward, the higher the t56 goes in the tunnel, but nothing a melted, and bent shifter -cannot fix.