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Old 06-21-2014, 11:01 AM   #76
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[QUOTE=dmax99;4930272]What size holes are you plugging on the core supp't..When welding two panels together I'd suggest filling a 5/16 hole.If welding three pieces together I'd use a 3/8 hole.If you use too small of a hole it's difficult to start the weld in the back piece to fill outwards,plus you won't have enough strength if the hole is to small.[/QUOTE

I've been using 3/16" holes for all of the plug welds. I think I'm getting pretty good strength on them, but I appreciate the advice. I'm learning by trial and error.

Really will be glad to be done with the welding. Still have to patch up the passenger floorboard, inner sill, front cross member, and then the rear valence.....hopefully that will be the end of it.
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:13 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle242gt View Post
This looks sooooo familiar. Amazing how much rust a nice looking car can hide from you.
Looking at the last pic, I think you need more power and less wire, but you're learning fast! Nothing like jumping in and gettin' bizzay!!
Thanks for the advice on power vs. speed and for the encouragement. I definitely am spending much more time grinding than anything else; is that why?

Totally agree on the hidden rust. After going through this project I'd definitely be very leery about buying any 1800 that had been previously restored or re-painted unless I knew who had done the work. If I were cutting corners I could have glossed over a bunch of this stuff, laid on some filler, shot paint and easily flipped the car.

Heading out to the garage this afternoon and hope to post an update on progress tonight or tomorrow. Home and yard projects have slowed me down a lot. Just remembered that I also need to finish welding on rear wheel well on right side and the rocker extension to the wheel well on the left side....ugh. When I get back to the suspension rebuild, brakes, and engine I'm going to be so freaking happy; much more fun to be wrenching instead of grinding. Also doesn't send you to the hospital emergency room so often (been 2x with metal embedded in my eye ((even with safety glasses and goggles))).
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:33 PM   #78
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Here's the intake cowl with everything finished up. I used Krylon spray bomb in "Cherry Red" over gray primer and it's an OK match for the original paint. Eventually the entire car will be painted so this is just temporary.

[IMG]Untitled photo[/IMG]

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I spent a lot of time poking around on the passenger side floorpan and inner sill. There were a lot of weak points and perforations where the pan meets the sill but I was hoping that I could avoid sectioning the pan and doing major surgery on the sill because the inspection camera showed that the mid sill was in good shape and the outer rocker is solid.

[IMG]Untitled photo[/IMG]

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Eventually I figured that there were enough weak spots in the pan that would need patching and enough places where the inner sill was compromised above and below the floor pan that it would be easier just to take the pan out so I could fix everything properly.

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The inside doesn't look bad at all, with the exception of the extension of the door jamb. I plan on blasting it and then sealing it up and otherwise leaving it in peace. The mid sill is solid and has just a bit of scale on it. So I should be able to clean things up, treat and seal them and then patch the inner sill and weld the floor back in (after sorting it out). Definitely not the horror show I went through on the driver's side.

[IMG]Untitled photo[/IMG]

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Old 10-24-2014, 10:17 PM   #79
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No; project has not been abandoned.

After a long spring and summer filled with yard chores, cutting, splitting, hauling, and stacking wood for winter, and various other stuff it's now getting back underway just in time for the cold weather (though I do have a nice kerosene bullet heater to keep the workspace warm).

Since I blew the original plan (do a minimal resto and get it on the road this year), I've re-baselined the project. New plan is to get the welding (yes, still plenty of it to do), rear suspension, and brakes done by Feb/Mar and then send the car off for bead blasting (found a place about an hour away that exclusively works on car restorations). After that going to send it out for finish body work and paint.

I haven't done much on it in recent months except some stripping, labeling, bagging, and boxing. In the course of that I made an unpleasant discovery on the rear end; car was apparently hit from the rear (or backed into something) and the rear bumper was pushed into the rear valence to the point where the rear quarters started to deform slightly. Not a great thing to find but also not the end of the world. Once it goes out for body work I'll figure out whether it makes more sense to have the metal beaten back into shape or to bite the bullet and order new quarters and a valence. VP has quarters at a decent price and CVI has the complete rear valence too http://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/arti...r-panel-1800se). Hope to avoid going that route but at least it's there.

Couple of recent photos:


I only discovered this when I was popping out the "V-O-L-V-O" letters. Couple of the holes had drips of bondo coming through them. I chiseled some of it away and discovered real pro-level bodywork; stuff was up to about 1/4" (maybe more) deep. Doh!
[IMG][/IMG]

Got the rear window out today and plugged away at removing external lights and trim, labeling wires, and bagging parts:
[IMG][/IMG]

Got the driver's side exterior trim, glass, and door guts pulled a while ago.
[IMG][/IMG]

Next step is to get back on the welding (really not looking forward to it). More to follow......
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:54 AM   #80
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It looks like Eastwood is your friend. I've seen at least one product they offer that you may be using (the Eastwood Mig Spot Weld Kit). It looks like it works very well. What are your impressions?

I need to finish workin' on my '73 ES. You my friend are an inspiration!
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:02 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drturbo View Post
It looks like Eastwood is your friend. I've seen at least one product
they offer that you may be using (the Eastwood Mig Spot Weld Kit). It looks like it works very well. What are your impressions?

I need to finish workin' on my '73 ES. You my friend are an inspiration!

So far I've only used the Eastwood "spot weld" kit and their frame sealer product. I've been happy with both. The spot weld kit has been handy and I'd definitely recommend it. I also like the frame sealer; it sprays well, doesn't clog, and seems to do a good job coating hard to reach interior spaces like unibody frame sections, rockers, etc.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:40 PM   #82
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More bagging and tagging. Delaying crawling around on my back and welding for a bit longer....

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

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Old 11-21-2014, 08:04 PM   #83
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Finished gutting the engine bay, hauled all of the parts up to the hell hole parts hoard upstairs in the barn, and did a little bit of cleaning and straightening so that I don't feel like I'm working in a dump.

Welding starts again tomorrow....

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[IMG] [/IMG]

The mini fridge is being defrosted so I can haul it to work next week. The one in the group cubicle crapped out and this one has been running for a couple of years with nothing more in it than a 5 year old 16 ounce can of Chelada (Budweiser with Calmato) and two PBRs.

[IMG] [/IMG]

And a random shot of some other guy's vehicle hoarding illness. This is a collapsed wooden garage next to an old (I'm guessing 1930s) dealership. In the collapsed part of the building there's also a 1940s Caddy coupe and a Lincoln. Inside the dealership proper he's got a handful of 60s T-brids, another Lincoln, a Chrysler Imperial, and more. I fell better about myself now....

[IMG] [/IMG]
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:21 PM   #84
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Probably should have named this thread "Project Millennium" because it will probably be a thousand years before it's done. Made some progress this weekend on the passenger side sill, frame, and floorboards:

Here's the rot on the passenger side frame rail. It's right where the frame rail extension ties into the frame; seems that a lot of the rot areas are where there was heavy welding done during production (or maybe that's my imagination):

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Rot cut out:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Inside of the frame extension heading toward the back after blowing out the loose crud and hitting it with Eastwood frame sealer:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Here it is patched up. Still a bit of welding and grinding to do up by the floorboards:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]


Patched up the inner sill. Was too busy welding and grinding to take any photos:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Putting the floor board back together:

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The frame rail extension is just dry fitted in here (going to weld it after I have the rest of the floor patched.

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Next steps: finish patching floorboard, plug weld floor board to inner sill, weld in frame rail extension, repair small weak area in aft frame rail extension. After that it's probably on to the headlight/directional signal area (got the parts I need from VP Autoparts in yesterday's mail).
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:02 AM   #85
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I can accept that the Chelata is gone, but did the PBRs make it? Those cans were from before the Russian takeover!
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Old 12-13-2014, 02:06 PM   #86
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Quote:
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I can accept that the Chelata is gone, but did the PBRs make it? Those cans were from before the Russian takeover!
They're all still down there (including the Chelada). And I am mindful that those are pre-Soviet PBRs. I'll save 'em for you.
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:48 PM   #87
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I'm burnt out on the floorpan and frame rail repairs; probably another 8-10 hours of work to finish those and I've been avoiding it because it's so miserable.

On the advice of a friend I decided to change it up and start working on the rust around the headlights/directionals. Strangely enough, having my head stuck inside the wheel well while I media blasted away undercoating and old scale was actually preferable to working on the floor pan and frame rails.

Driver's side after drilling out and removing the headlight retainer ring:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Ditto the passenger side:

[IMG] [/IMG]

Directional signal retainer removed and outside of passenger side blasted:

[IMG] [/IMG]

I am noticing a very strong correlation between rot and factory welding. You can see that there is a spot to the right of the headlight opening that is perforated from the inside. The corrosion here was all in close proximity to the welded joint between the fender and the nacelle:

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Same deal here; the corrosion is right next to the weld joint:

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

My plan is to weld in the two retaining rings (headlight and parking light) so that I'll have a solid structure to work from to patch up the small areas of rot on the passenger side.

Only other progress to report is that I finally hauled the rear axle to the welding shop to repair the cracked bracket for the trailing arm (I broke the weld between the bracket and the axle tube trying to beat out the old bushing). Also brought the vintage IPD lowering springs there to have the spacer on one re-attached and to make sure the other one is properly welded on.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:38 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by didenpx View Post

.. Also brought the vintage IPD lowering springs there to have the spacer on one re-attached and to make sure the other one is properly welded on.
Huh? spacers re-attached to springs? I too have a set of the vintage IPD lowering springs that I'll be putting on my '71 1800E .. but I'm totally lost for what spacer you're referring too. Can you elaborate? Great project you have going on here, reminds me of my project.

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Old 01-24-2015, 06:21 PM   #89
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I traded some parts and got a pair of vintage IPD springs. They had a "C" shaped steel spacer welded to one end to adjust the ride height by ~1/2" or maybe a bit more. When I got them one of the spacers had come off because of the poor welding. I don't want the car to ride on the ground so I decided to keep them on the springs and hope for the best.

The only shot I have is this one. You can see the spacer on the bottom of the second spring from the left.

[IMG]Vintage IPD Springs[/IMG]


Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug C View Post
Huh? spacers re-attached to springs? I too have a set of the vintage IPD lowering springs that I'll be putting on my '71 1800E .. but I'm totally lost for what spacer you're referring too. Can you elaborate? Great project you have going on here, reminds me of my project.

Doug C

Last edited by didenpx; 01-24-2015 at 06:45 PM.. Reason: Added photo
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:35 PM   #90
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Still plugging away on the passenger side lights; decent progress yesterday and today:

Headlight retainer plug welded into place:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Repaired the rust between the headlight and the grill:

[IMG] [/IMG]

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[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

It looks rougher in the photo than it really is. This area will get smoothed out with filler so it should be more than good enough.

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

Started on the rot around the front parking light. Started by dropping spots around to see how far back I needed to cut out the weakened metal:

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

I was really concerned about matching the contours in the metal here but I think it turned out ok. I tacked one end of the patch in and then used body hammers to gently shape it section by section, tacking as progressed.

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

The contours toward the outside are even more complex but I used the same procedure. Had to do a bit more tapping here to shape the metal and I also used a dolly on the backside. Once ground down and filled I'm hoping everything will look right.

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

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Old 01-28-2015, 06:04 PM   #91
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Work was closed again today due to blizzard cleanup, so I got some garage time after clearing snow.

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

I ground down the welds to to a point where they were still proud of the metal and then used a coarse round file to work them down and get the contour more or less right. It worked ok but it was slow going.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Directional signal backing plate plug welded in and then the plug welds ground down:

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Still have to patch up the bottom of the nose where it meets the fender just forward of the wheel well and then it's on to the driver's side. That one will be more challenging, but this was good practice. Worst part of it will be the media blasting :(

If anyone is interested in a 73 ES major project please PM me. This will be the last time I do something quite this involved (at least for a long time). The 73 is in rougher shape than this one in some places (outer rockers and mid sills are gone) and better in others. It was hit in the right front at some point and someone did a hack job replacing the fender. I paid $1,300 for it but will accept offers....will post a for sale ad on it as soon as this one gets out for media blasting (it's sitting in my third bay (no door) so it can't go anywhere until this one is out of the way.

Last edited by didenpx; 01-28-2015 at 06:13 PM.. Reason: added content
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:21 PM   #92
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Nice work! Good to see someone restoring an 1800 correctly...
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Old 01-31-2015, 08:51 PM   #93
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On to the driver's side headlight area. Media blasted and probed around with welder to see how much needs to be cut out:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Started patching up the opening for the headlight backing plate

[IMG] [/IMG]

There's a lot of lead filler in this area and in the process of patching up the opening near the top I removed a bunch of it, revealing more rot underneath:

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

The plan is to get the headlight retainer ring welded in to give stability to this area and then probably do the same with the directional signal backing plate. Once those are in I'll start shaping and tacking in patches. Not exactly sure how to make sure that I get the correct contour/profile for the areas that are rotted away....open to suggestions.
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:40 PM   #94
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Headlight retainer ring welded in and the patch on the top of the fender completed:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:09 PM   #95
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Had an inspiration on beginning to reconstruct the directional signal area:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:02 PM   #96
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Fantastic. You must be snowed in with all of this recent progress.
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:58 PM   #97
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Quote:
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Fantastic. You must be snowed in with all of this recent progress.
You guessed it. Work has been closed four days the past couple of weeks. If it weren't for having to find new places to stack all of this white stuff I'd have made a lot more progress.
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:17 PM   #98
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Developed a plan to match the contours around the directional signal and headlight:


[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

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Repeated this step 3x as the contour changes. Used the cutout pieces to help shape the patches and also to check the finished work.

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Old 02-16-2015, 07:06 PM   #99
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Had big plans for the weekend but they went with the new snow; spent most of it moving the white stuff around (there's hardly any place to put it now). Managed to get in a few hours of shooting electric at metal today:

[IMG]Untitled[/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Just need to plug weld the backing plate for the directional signal and patch up a spot near the wheel well and it will be on to the next spot. Still don't have any appetite for crawling around on my back and finishing the passenger side floor and frame rail extensions so I may move on to the driver's side rear quarter. Got a very nice patch panel from VP and need to figure out how much of the existing metal I want to cut out. More soon.....
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:43 PM   #100
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Nice job. That doesn't look like fun. Keep up the good work!
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