• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 Volvo front axle torque/bolts locations

smeha

Tranny Whisperer
Joined
Mar 3, 2017
Location
California
Hello fellow TBrickers,
I've been battling with bunch of shakings and now another one.
Talking about my 1988 245 front suspension/axle

So far:
- Checked my wheels of the ground, suspension seems tight.
- Most of the suspension components were replaced in past 3-4 years.
- - Original upper strut mount/Original sway bar bushings.
- Bearings were tighten.
- Front wheels are straight, 3 times rebalanced with 2 month old nice Michelin tires.

I'm thinking that mechanic few months ago could have messed with crossmember/steering rack. Because oil pan had to be swapped.

Questions:
- Where are the cross member bolts to chassis, what is the torque for them?
- Where are the steering rack bolts to cross member/chassis, what is the torque for them?
- Could sway bar bushings cause vibration in the car/steering wheel? The only front bushings I never replaced.
- Anything else I should look for?

Thank you!
 
All bolts and nuts have a torque spec and it relates to the size of the nuts and bolts. So find out the size of the bolts or nuts and then you will know the torque specs by looking in your machinists manual.

How about checking the alignment? If your mechanic dropped the front crossmember and all that to replace your oil pan, I'd check the alignment. Personally I just pulled the motor to replace oil pan myself..
 
One thing that I saw for the reason for someone junking a 940 turned out to be a front brake rotor that wasn't seated on the hub properly. The wear to the rotor had to have caused much shaking.
 
One thing that I saw for the reason for someone junking a 940 turned out to be a front brake rotor that wasn't seated on the hub properly. The wear to the rotor had to have caused much shaking.

Rotors and pads were replaced a month ago and the shaking was there before
 
All bolts and nuts have a torque spec and it relates to the size of the nuts and bolts. So find out the size of the bolts or nuts and then you will know the torque specs by looking in your machinists manual.

How about checking the alignment? If your mechanic dropped the front crossmember and all that to replace your oil pan, I'd check the alignment. Personally I just pulled the motor to replace oil pan myself..
Hiperauto already PMd me about torque stuff. Alignment was done 2 years ago, car doesn't wonder or lean while driving/braking. So not the case of shaking.
 
hiperfauto said:
I checked the greenbooks last night when you posted. There's no torque spec for the cross member or the steering rack retaining bolts. When that's the case, go by the bolt diameter and hardness. The cross member bolts are 12mm and the steering rack bolts are 8mm. Both are grade 8.8.

Torque-Relationship-Chart.png


If the cross member bolts don't feel tight at 65 ft.lbs. it's OK to go a little tighter. I usually use a breaker bar and get them as tight as I can.

The cross member bolts are accessed from the engine compartment. They go down through the frame rail and into the cross member. The passenger side has good access, but the drivers side will need to have some hoses pushed out of the way. Use a long extension so you can get above the master cylinder.

This is some useful stuff from hiperauto, I don't think he mind sharing this useful piece of information.
Thanks again!

I will re-check and tighten everything later and see if it changes anything.
 
Both wheels left/right are very tight.
Both wheels up/down have a slight ~2mm play in the hub. Have a feeling it's a bearing, but wouldn't be a big stress, so that's not it.
Tighten everything I could find.
The only loose things I found are Sway Bar End Links on both sides. Judging by IPD receipt they were replaced 4 years ago with rubber MTC brand. Was able to tighten 2 full turns on top on both sides. Rubber kind of look crappy.

P.S. Seems like it got a little better after the whole routine. Going to replace sway end links with IPD poly and leave it as it is.

BTW does anyone standard/factory 1988 245 sway bar size?
Want to get bushings for it, but there are a lot of different sizes. I don't have caliper measurement tool to measure it.
 
Back
Top