1987 244 DL Autocrosser

I lulled a ninja edit.

Pulled the trans back and greased the sleeve that the release bearing rides on. Luckily the input shaft splines still had some grease on them from when it was briefly installed in mrbill's car, so hopefully that will be OK. Also lightly greased the release bearing where it hits the pressure plate fingers.

Put the axle on jack stands and lifted the front of the car a couple inches to get it to ride height and measured again. 50-1/2" pinion flange to tip of output shaft. 20-1/2" from the center u-joint to the tip of output shaft. Dropping off the driveshaft tomorrow, hope it's ready next week so I can get this thing driving again.

that's the second-nicest shifting T5 I've used. First was my origional T5 before it ate needle bearings.

Dropped off the driveshaft this morning. The slip yoke I had was a 1330 so I will probably ask for a new 1310, but I'm still waiting for a call back. They said they can normally turn it around next day, but I have not heard back yet so I don't think it will be ready tomorrow, so I will pick it up next week.

Next up is the trans cross member...have a 164 motor mount to use as a trans mount. Also have a stock rubber T5 mount. Something will work.

all hockey pucks.

f*ck it soild mounts

Picked up the T5 driveshaft on Wednesday. Had the M47 shaft modified. New weld yoke, new 1310 u-joint, new slip yoke, cut/shortened/welded/balanced, and a new center bearing pressed on. I provided the stock driveshaft and the new center bearing, everything else they provided. Total was $260 parts/labor.

Did you test fit the ds yet?

GOLDDDDDD

No. RAINNNNNNNN. Tomorrow or Saturday.

Are those TiN coated?

they look either painted or, cad plated with chromic conversion coating.

Nickel I think. Indoor photography under fluorescent does weird things to color.

Driveshaft installed, seems to fit and have some wiggle room. I'll be working on the trans mount / cross member tomorrow morning, tighten bolts at pinion, install shift lever & boot, and reinstall exhaust.

it's 10:15. You've had two hours of work time now.

DIDY?

I'm not .mil so I don't get up at 6am. Awake, working on motivation, work will start soon.

Cyborgs don't sleep.

They recharge.

towerymt said:

Click to expand...

Where can you buy these?

AlexOlsen said:

Where can you buy these?

Click to expand...

Here!

Drove it around the block a few times this afternoon. The red clutchnet pressure plate with the single fingers is quite light at the pedal...likely too light to hold the torque I'd like to make, but it sure is nice to drive compared to the heavy Spec pp. Stalled a little eaiser and revved a little quicker with the aluminum flywheel. No more grinding starts now that I have a ring gear with all its teeth.

At first I wasn't sure why the trans cross member seemed too far forward when I held it up. Then I remembered Ian's is only held in by two bolts, so I figured it was moved back so the front holes in the cross member line up with the rear holes in the chassis. This works. I put my new mega-cheap metric tap & die set to good use, chasing the threads on one of the cross member bolts and the threaded hole in the chassis. My cross member had been held in by only three bolts because we could never get a fourth started...well the odd man out was surface-rusty from not being used. The tap cleaned it up and the bolt went in fine.

I made a pattern for the trans mount plate I would need. After giving it some thought, and after I couldn't find any material large enough AND thick enough to fit my pattern, I came up with an idea for a two piece arrangement. Last week I made the block off plate for the speedo hole. Same thing we did for Rob's trans, so it should work fine.



The 1/4" thick aluminum plate, once used to hold a remote oil filter, is bolted to the trans. The other piece is angle iron cut from an old bed frame, notched to fit over the stud on the 164 motor mount, and bolted to the aluminum plate. It worked out well, the angles work, and it won't be a problem to remove it or adjust it if I need to. The M46 cross member is unmodified. The 164 motor mount needed part of the base plate cut off on the other side, but it bolts up fine otherwise. THE MOTOR MOUNT HAD STANDARD THREADS which caught me again. 7/16"-14 coarse. Home Depot only had ONE coarse thread nut, so I had to buy a 4-pack of jam nuts cause that's all I could find in the right size.

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/128569280/large.jpg

Driveshaft fit fine.







The full exhaust was off, so I weighed it. Turbo-back 3", Catco cat, Magnaflow bullet muffler, ONLY 34lbs. I thought it would be heavier.

Next up...shift knob and boot. Any suggestions?