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Old 07-12-2020, 11:23 PM   #1
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Toronto
Default Drivers Door not latching properly

Im having an issue latching the drivers door on my 75 245. The door clicks over the first riser and latches but not the second. Handles and locks seem to be working fine. I just can’t get it close properly.
Any suggestions or tips on what could be the issue?
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:37 AM   #2
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Join Date: Feb 2005

If it's a 75 245, I'm guessing it's a manual window door. Had something similar with my 78 recently.
Try this. Pull the door lock all the way up on both doors. Now go open the passenger door (which I assume is working correctly).
Take a look at the position of the moving part in the passenger door latch mechanism. Compare it to the driver's door.
My guess is that you need to manually push the moving part back into the proper starting position.
Then it's time to use some white lithium grease or similar lubricant to make sure the part keeps working correctly.

BTW, congratulations on having a 75 245 that is still able to pass safety in Ontario. Rust has claimed too many 240's in Ontario and the US Midwest.
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:57 AM   #3
Mr. V
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon metro

The mechanism on the side of the door jam that the latch latches to is adjustable.

Loosen the bolts and experiment by moving it around until you find the best result.

It can take awhile to get it right: be patient.
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:27 PM   #4
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellijay

The common issue with 240 door locks is the rectangular latch box bolted to the door jam with Allen or Philips head bolts. The box should be removed and you will instantly see why it is not working correctly due to corrosion and lack of lubrication. The bolts will be very tight because of torque and corrosion. An impact driver will be your best friend. The box comes off and goes back on without issue. You really cannot screw it up.

This issue is what breaks the 240 door handles and after my learning experience on one I cleaned and lubricated all six in my care.

1982 Volvo 245 with a Ford 302 V8

Ford V8 Conversion Manual -

Bertone Restoration - http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=256460
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:13 PM   #5
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.

Buy some Wurth HHS plus and lube all latches and locks with this stuff. You will never have this issue again. Use it once or twice a year depending on climate. Usually, you can lube the Volvo latches and get them working well again. Some quick drying electrical parts cleaner will degrease the latch and let you add only fresh lube to it.
1982 242 turbo. 340k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration.

1993 245 Classic, 430k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:43 PM   #6
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Duvall, WA

Remember, 1975 240s use the 140 series latch setup, not the 1978-on 200/700/900 style latch setup. Which means it's a completely different design. The plus of the early 240 series cars is that you can install 1967-71 140 doors on there if you want wing windows and old school door handles. Or, if you want the flush handles with the wing windows, 1972-73 doors.

1982 242Ti - black, M46. 1985 245Ti - blue, M46.

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