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Old 07-06-2010, 09:20 PM   #51
Lord Tentacle
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Originally Posted by pwschuh View Post
He failed to ask for a winch in the bridal gift registry.
just tow it back with the evo or the 960
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:59 AM   #52
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You just paid for the perma-wench, what's the problem?
yeah but for this job I need a bigger model than the one I saddled up with.

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He failed to ask for a winch in the bridal gift registry.
don't think bed bath & beyond carries those.

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just tow it back with the evo or the 960
the 960 could do it, but it wouldn't be able to pull the car up the hill. thinking 4x4 turbo diesel.
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:11 AM   #53
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Been out of the game for a few [years] - what happened to the old one?
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:55 AM   #54
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totaled the **** out of it back in mid-may. http://www.pbase.com/kdh51/90_2010&page=all
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:28 AM   #55
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I can't wait to see where this goes. Please oh please please keep it gold.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:30 AM   #56
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dunno. I don't like non-standard colors on my volvos*

*non standard being anything not silver, grey, black, or blue.
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:52 AM   #57
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Ho did that happen? Looks like it flipped a few times end to end - hope you were/are ok after that dude.
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:53 AM   #58
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Ho did that happen? Looks like it flipped a few times end to end - hope you were/are ok after that dude.
freeze plug + racing tires + high rate of speed. more info in the old project thread if you're really curious
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:25 PM   #59
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and it's here.


cleanup and disassembly to begin tomorrow.
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:19 PM   #60
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its g00000000000000000000000000000000000llllllllllllll ldddddd

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Old 07-10-2010, 07:24 PM   #61
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dude, you gotta make it run 10's on those ugly ass wheels, put some slicks on those.
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Old 07-11-2010, 05:38 PM   #62
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too much work, slicks are already mounted. hit the bay with engine brite and followed up with the pressure washer. think it took off the first layer of ****. when the sun sets low enough I'll start cleaning the interior (which is, I might add, ****ing disgusting), probably have a jam session between goldbrik and the dark wagon.

I think with some detailing the paint will turn out alright, couple minor dents and dings (mostly on the hood and trunk lid), and a short list of things that need to be retrieved from the jy (hood hinges, these are bent, not exactly sure if it was a hood flyup issue or just what), but... yeaahh.. its a little bit cleaner.

and its hot and muggy outside. bah.
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:18 PM   #63
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hehe, looks like mine. hope it takes to ms better than mine did. but im sure you are gonna rewire the while dam thing any way.
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:34 AM   #64
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well.. learned a few things and did a few things.. Threw away the door panels (too filthy to clean. seats will follow and maybe the carpet. nastiest car I've owned), cleaned the inside of most of the windows. decided I didn't really want to finish cleaning the car (too late to burn it?), so I would instead yank the exhaust manifold and see how well the new bondo header fits. after struggling mightly with frozen bolts and redneck'd changes, I finally succeeded in getting the goddamn thing off.

the bondo header has almost no prayer of going on an oem 16v car. will re-visit when I get the cam box and fan shroud off, but I had to move the abs pump (heh, bend) and distort the transmission lines to even start to get the thing in there. It was a little disappointing, but only because I really wanted to see the bling on the car
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:40 PM   #65
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So are you going to Keep the interior stripped? Or find new parts?
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:53 PM   #66
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I already have a set of *much* cleaner tan door panels in the shop's attic. other parts will be replaced as needed, basically I'm just going to have to strip it out to clean it up, not really surprising but a little bit of a bummer. just gotta get started, that's the hardest part.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:33 PM   #67
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Sweet deal! Its sickening sometimes how dirty these cars are inside.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:35 PM   #68
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Have to gut it for the caging anyway, might as well strip it all the way down, remove the sound deadening, and get it ready for welding.
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:44 PM   #69
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cage will be a winter project and will require a fair amount of thought. these are the rules I'm trying to play at least some degree of lipservice to:


Quote:
CLASS SUMMARY
Heads-Up, Pro-tree (.400) class for F/R/AWD street/daily driven import/sport compact vehicles with full interior, exhaust, and current tags/registration. Power adders allowed. Three qualifying passes permitted.

BODY
Import or domestic compact car bodies allowed. Current tags and registration required. One piece and widened front ends prohibited. Bumpers can not be removed. Other than factory webbing, no cutting allowed on front bumper or hood (ex. cutting for large front mount exhaust/turbo/intercooler/etc). Cutting of rear bumper for diffuser purposes OK. *Updated 1/29/10

INTERIOR
Doors must open and close from inside and outside the vehicle. No center drive configurations. All seats (front and back), door panels, dash, and carpet (front and back) must remain inside vehicle. No lexan allowed. No cutting allowed. *Updated 1/29/10

CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION
Full tube chassis prohibited. No center-drive systems. Wheelie bars are prohibited.

ENGINE
4, 6, 8, 10, or 12 cylinder, 2 or 3 rotory import engines allowed. Domestic compact car limited to 4 cylinder FWD. No air-cooled engines allowed. Motor swaps allowed.

POWER ADDERS
Turbochargers, Superchargers and Nitrous Oxide Systems permitted in any combination.

DRIVETRAIN AND TRANSMISSION
FWD, AWD, or RWD allowed. Stock driveline configuration must remain. Any type of transmission allowed.

EXHAUST
Open exhaust prohibited. Must run muffler.

TIRES
Slicks permitted for FWD only. DOT approved tires required for AWD and RWD vehicles.
so whatever cage I put in there needs to allow for *most* of the interior to return.

worst case scenario i'll run in FI-PRO but then I'll really be stacked against some reeaaally fast cars. Trying to avoid that, probably for the next calender year. realistically it's going to be a challenge to get the car running in time for SE/fall IFO as it was before anyway. buuuttt.. ordered headstuds today, bouta order an SFI bellhousing, should have most of the parts to R&R the engine, then it's just manifolding, wastegates and turbo, intercooler, that sorta cheap :cough: stuff
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:00 PM   #70
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i swear, you boys get it done
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:20 PM   #71
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#1, do not put bends in the rear down tubes. That's what a lot of "show" cars do to go around the interior, or to give the illusion of a street car?

I would do a pretty basic cage, and maybe skip some of the things that a road race cage would have, like any kind of additional bracing or protection on the passenger side. And focus most of the bracing tying into the main hoop around your head.

Can you go through the firewall? Would you? I would put the rear down tubes through the rear bulkhead, but that could make things more complicated with the rear seat and sealing off from the fuel cell, so probably just go to the rear wheel wells near a joint in the sheet metal so it's at least worthwhile. Sometimes the rear tubes just go down to the flat sheet metal of the wheel well which seems pointless when it could possibly tie into the chassis at a better spot.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:00 AM   #72
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We'll re-visit the goals when the cage goes in, I might just bite the bullet and stretch things enough to run consistent mid 9's and run in sam's class. put a remote trigger on his chute or something.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:00 AM   #73
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We'll re-visit the goals when the cage goes in, I might just bite the bullet and stretch things enough to run consistent mid 9's and run in sam's class. put a remote trigger on his chute or something.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:47 AM   #74
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put a remote trigger on his chute or something.
Is that the only way you can catch him?
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:03 AM   #75
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Is that the only way you can catch him?
it's awfully hard to deal with someone belting out 800+rwhp when you yourself are not belting out 800+ rwhp ;)
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