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Old 07-28-2014, 11:14 AM   #76
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Finished up the rest of the installation process yesterday. Easy as pie on such an old car.

Then I tried to start it. Nothing. Crank crank crank crank (hey, at least the new starter works great!).

Nothing. Messed around with the carbs, thinking they were gummed up from sitting around for so long, even though I'd turned off the fuel pump and let the car suck them dry prior to taking them off. Nope, they were getting fuel, bowls were full, plugs were damp. Hmm... ignition? Pulled the coil wire off and cranked it some. Holy hell that MSD 6A box and the Blaster coil make some wicked sparks. They'd jump about an inch, 4 sparks per fire (?), made a wicked sizzling sound when it went off. No problem there. Did I get something clocked wrong putting it back together? Shouldn't be off, I left the dist drive gear in place the whole time, dist only goes on one way. Broke out the timing light and..... weak and sporadic sparks going to #1. Put it on the coil wire. Yeah, that's firing off nicely every time. That narrows it down a bit.

I took off the cap, it was fine, but the rotor had a little burn hole near the center. Apparently the sparks were jumping through it into the distributor shaft. Not sure why this decided to manifest itself right now. *frown*

It's an old Mallory Dual Point distributor body, not stock Volvo parts. So I ordered a new cap and rotor for what I think will fit - seems as though Mallory made a wide variety of fitments for the distributors, but all of those tended to use a fairly small number of common caps and rotors.

In the meantime, I dremeled out the hole in the rotor and filled it with JB Weld, I'm not sure if that will work or not. I'll try it when I get home.
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:40 PM   #77
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but the rotor had a little burn hole near the center
1981 VW Rabbit Pickup - Bought discount rotor...within 1,000 miles, it too failed, same location. Then, I bought a Bosch, problem solved.

Hence, there is also heat that travels thru, and "cooks" it.
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:48 PM   #78
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I've been using that cap/rotor/distributor for probably 30K miles prior to this. Never an issue. The MSD 6A box has only been on for about 5K miles though. Prior to that the Crane optical box was driving an old square Mallory coil directly. powerful - but nothing like the lightning bolts the current setup is tossing out.

I think perhaps the issue was that the cap/rotor had been off and sitting around for a while on the work bench while the motor was apart, it had a little oil in it. I cleaned it out with a shop rag, but it might have been enough to get a carbon track started?
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:18 PM   #79
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In the meantime, I dremeled out the hole in the rotor and filled it with JB Weld, I'm not sure if that will work or not. I'll try it when I get home.
Might work, I filled one with the POR epoxy putty and put a pad of solder on it to connect to the contacts.. worked for 3 days while my new one shipped out.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:28 PM   #80
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I've been using that cap/rotor/distributor for probably 30K miles prior to this. Never an issue. The MSD 6A box has only been on for about 5K miles though. Prior to that the Crane optical box was driving an old square Mallory coil directly. powerful - but nothing like the lightning bolts the current setup is tossing out.

I think perhaps the issue was that the cap/rotor had been off and sitting around for a while on the work bench while the motor was apart, it had a little oil in it. I cleaned it out with a shop rag, but it might have been enough to get a carbon track started?
5k is about right for a 6a box to start eating caps and rotors.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:37 PM   #81
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5k is about right for a 6a box to start eating caps and rotors.
The sparks coming off the coil wire were pretty impressive. I've never seen anything like that before from a stock ignition system.

Maybe I should take the MSD box off. It does add a slight bit of pep to the motor at lower rpms. Not sure if that's subliminal or not.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:49 PM   #82
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Mine used to last about 8k before i started misfiring randomly. The cap would last a bit longer than the rotor.
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Old 07-29-2014, 11:35 AM   #83
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Yeah, the epoxy trick worked like a charm. Instead of crankcrankcrankcrank *chuffle* it went cra*VROOOM*, that sort of instant fire up that an ECU motor can't quite match.

I've got a new rotor and cap coming in the mail, but it's back to drivable. I drove it around for a little bit, then I remembered, derp, it has Sep 2013 expiration plates on it. Yeah... better ease up on the volume control (gas pedal) and go back home already.

It's nowhere near as fast as the wagon is, but it's so light and nimble feeling. Fun to zip around in it. I need to get a state safety inspection, then mail that and some forms off with a picture of my vintage license plate and then I'll have it permanently licensed with a 'year of manufacture' plate.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:53 PM   #84
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I finally got my paperwork back from the State of Missouri Department of Revenue, legalizing my vintage license plate I bought on eBay. Now I can drive around with an old rusty license plate on my old rusty car. w0000t!

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Old 09-03-2014, 11:58 AM   #85
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I haven't been pulled over yet, after driving it for a while. I have a lingering suspicion that police will not know about the YOM plate thing and try to hassle me.
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:32 PM   #86
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Just remember if you get pulled over to do the following-
-Immediately exit the vehicle and approach the officer.
-Yell "Hands up, don't shoot!" right in his/her face.
-Refuse to comply with any of their instructions.
-Loot your local liquor store.
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:41 PM   #87
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Pfft, white privilege.
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:53 PM   #88
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F*ck tha police
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:50 PM   #89
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I usually take my keys out of the ignition and set them on the roof.... throws them off every single time.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:01 PM   #90
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:56 PM   #91
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:07 PM   #92
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F*ck tha police
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:47 PM   #93
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John, your inbox is full. I wanted to reply, thanks.
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:00 AM   #94
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What ^^^^ said. So it goes here...

Haven't found a solution to the rotor yet, but I've been rocking the IPD HD blue cap on my wagon for around 60-70k behind a 6A/BlasterSS combo with NO issues. I used to burn thru the Bosch head mount caps in around 3-7k, had one I could actually see light thru. Went block mount, then I got around 12-15k from the Bosch before it was burned pretty good.

I dunno what the deal is on the IPD one but hell, I'll take it! Doug mentioned a few years ago he had to run that when he still had the 242 with the MSD7 on it, but he found it labelled as a Standard Motor cap from the local parts chain.

Assuming the OHC motors run the same cap, it might be worth a shot.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:29 AM   #95
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OHV and OHC run different caps.

You can still get beru stuff for an OHV for $$$.

I've been hoarding beru wires and used to hoard near new beru german caps and rotors in the junkyards 10 years ago. Usually would get them thrown in for free with a wheelbarrow load. Why not? Last forever if you treat them right. Those days of the "free" tuneup 3x with basically brand new gucci beru parts for the next 100K are long gone.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:10 AM   #96
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The PV has a Mallory dual point body on it, different cap and rotor. LIke this:
http://www.tennesseespeedsport.com/M...Series-23.html

Only mine was much cheaper and bought used on ebay many years ago.

I was initially concerned about finding a replacement cap/rotor, but apparently while they do have a *large* number of different distributors for a wide variety of applications, they all use just a few different cap/rotors. So I was able to easily find a replacement 4 cylinder cap and rotor. But the JBWelded rotor is still in there, I'll put the new one on when the patched one starts to have issues.

PV's running great. It just feels less peppy when I've been driving the wagon. If I'd only been driving the 4Runner for a while, it would probably feel peppy.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:56 AM   #97
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Ahh, forgot you had the Mallory on there...makes my rant pointless. lol

I hear ya on the peppy feeling. Going from my wagon with twice the power to the 140, yeah the 140 is a blast, but nowhere near the same power level. Can't wait to see what boost does to fix that issue though down the road.
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:04 AM   #98
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I occasionally ponder sticking the 16VT motor from the wagon in the PV to make the PV ridiculously fast (2200 lbs wheeee), making room in the wagon for something LS/2JZ-ish with even more ludicrous amounts of pwoer.

But the 16V engine is shaped all wrong to fit into the PV. The PV's engine bay narrows considerably to the front, where the 16V engine has the turbo up front, and the Nathan intake sticks out on the other side.
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Old 03-12-2015, 08:58 AM   #99
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LOL, tried to drive this to work this morning, it's been sitting since late fall to avoid the salt. It wasn't in a good mood.

It started fairly easily, snorted and coughed a bunch. Then as I was pulling it out of the garage it died. Then it caught fire.

Minor fire, one of the foam 'air filters' over the DCOE horns caught fire. No damage, just dripped melted foam here and there.

Then the battery was dead. Yeah, time to drive a Toyota instead.

Heh. I have half a hunch that the half-assed rotor patch I did (drill out the burned hole and fill with JB Weld) has burned through again, from the way it was running. I got a new rotor, but hadn't put it in yet. Maybe that MSD box and Blaster coil is just a bit too much.
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:58 AM   #100
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You can always depend in a toyota. I'd really like to see this car in person some time!
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