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Old 01-06-2015, 08:08 PM   #51
oldschoolvolvo
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maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but what wheels are you running?
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:35 PM   #52
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ESM 002R, 16x8" running ET15 up front, ET-5 in the rear. 225/50R16 tires.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:08 PM   #53
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Are you going to go with a GTX yourself?


I have a few 2860s and 2863s left over from testing. I was the responsible engineer for the GTX28R family so I know them very well
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:14 PM   #54
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ORLY? What if one of those ended up here in Oregon? Strapped to the side of an ancient B21F? Hmmmm?
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:15 PM   #55
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Stranger things have happened.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:14 AM   #56
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if you're going to send someone a turbo to strap to the side of an ancient b21f, wouldn't it be more exotic to send it to alaska instead of oregon?
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:01 PM   #57
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The disco ball headlights actually don't look so bad.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:20 PM   #58
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3/4 of the stuff done to this car happened thanks to this gentleman, everybody ^

Of course they don't look half bad. They look excellent.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:18 PM   #59
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Swapped in the RSI stage 1 cam today, set to 2.5 degrees advanced. Idles at 16-18" vacuum at 1000 RPM in neutral, 11-13 in drive. Gave up a little bit of vacuum to the B.

That said the powerband is much fatter now. Boost comes in about 900 RPM sooner and pulls HARD to the limiter. Looking forward to installing the NPR intercooler I ordered.

One more thing: whoever designed the B21 timing belt cover deserves to be bitch-slapped. Cam was one tooth off the first time around and I needed to re-set base ignition timing. Fan and water pump pulley, as well as the alternator, need to move out of the way for that to happen. Seriously considering an e-fan JUST to make access there less of a pain in the ass.


No pics. Everyone knows what a camshaft looks like.
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Old 01-10-2015, 08:39 PM   #60
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Got it aligned. For whatever reason only one side can get 1 degree of camber while the other only goes to .2. Might be time to look into straightening the unibody...
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Old 01-10-2015, 08:44 PM   #61
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Sounds close enough to me, it is an old 240 after all, so just drive it and don't dwell on it.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 01-10-2015, 09:38 PM   #62
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Camber plates and done.
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Thank you very much everybody... i now feel sufficiently retarded and will go cry in the corner...
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Old 01-10-2015, 09:49 PM   #63
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Manufacturing tolerances bro.
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Old 01-10-2015, 09:54 PM   #64
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bro, do you even
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:03 PM   #65
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I do not even.
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:02 PM   #66
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Got a couple things done and decided to take pictures for once. Installed an NPR, backed off timing to 15* at idle, loosened the MBC a hair (it was pinging at above 13 PSI). Runs great now, up to the point where it somehow peaks at higher boost and the thing decides to cut timing at like 17 psi (it was 15.5 max before...guess less timing means more boost? Does the NPR somehow mess significantly with the pressure ratio? Does 2.2 even have some sort of fuel cut or ignition retard?? ****ing thing went off like a shotgun...thought I grenaded the block, hooooly crap! Anyway, I'll move to an MBC with a softer spring as this once is as loose as it will go.

Aaaaanyway, I'm sort of happy with the fit, and really looking forward to securing the thing a little better. Not a fan of it resting on the core support without any grommets. May have to resort to the wood block method used on 740Ts. Oh yeah, Dying to give the engine bay a cleanup. Injector leaked a few months and caused a bit of "heat" resulting in a sooty mess. Ugh.










Oh yeah, and pic of the Truetrac's box!

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Old 01-14-2015, 12:41 AM   #67
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Saw a picture of your ride, and I bought dumbo mirrors to match. Sleek car man...and mad jealous of the truetrac
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:47 AM   #68
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That true trac wont leave the box before you destroy the car in one way or another
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:50 AM   #69
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Saw a picture of your ride, and I bought dumbo mirrors to match. Sleek car man...and mad jealous of the truetrac
Thanks dude! The chrome mirrors work really well with all the polished steel on the exterior

Also, figured out the spark cut thing. I maxed the MAF. Saw 16 psi on first and backed out. Before the NPR it never saw more than 12 in first. At all. This is gooooood.


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That true trac wont leave the box before you destroy the car in one way or another
Bitch puh-lease.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:26 PM   #70
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So setting boost is more of a pain than expected. Springs in both of my MBCs are too short/stiff...what a PITA. May be time to upgrade to an EBC.

Who's got any experience with closed loop boost controllers?
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:28 PM   #71
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Thread title needs to be changed to

The turd that wont flush
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:50 PM   #72
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What mbc are you running?
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:08 PM   #73
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Thread title needs to be changed to

The turd that wont flush

Your face is a turd that won't flush.


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What mbc are you running?
Grainger valve.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:52 PM   #74
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Get a halman. They are worth it
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:30 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harribert View Post
Does the NPR somehow mess significantly with the pressure ratio?
To answer your question from a few posts back: it depends.

It looks like your boost reference line for the wastegate actuator is referenced from the intake manifold plenum, behind the throttle body. If so, that means that your boost controller doesn't care what happens between the compressor and the manifold. It should keep peak boost at the same point, assuming you aren't getting boost creep due to a too-small wastegate port. Changing the intercooler to a larger, more efficient unit should lower the pressure drop across the cooler, meaning at the compressor outlet, boost will actually be lower now to make the same final pressure at the manifold. The compressor pressure ratio would go down, turbo speed would go down, and you should be making more power due to cooler charge air temps and less backpressure. Less turbine power required to get to the same intake manifold pressure means less exhaust backpressure required.

If you are referencing boost for the controller from the compressor housing, like via a port near the outlet, then upgrading the intercooler will absolutely alter the final boost pressure in the intake manifold. The turbo won't change how it's operating, you'll just get higher boost in the manifold because you'll be losing less of it along the way.

Can you verify your MBC plumbing and where it's referenced from?
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