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Old 06-01-2015, 07:32 PM   #201
Tuff240
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Alright alright , I'll double down.
Sort sort sort. It's what makes a car a really good car.
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:51 PM   #202
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Thanks! Would have had him if the ECU had not entered knock enrichment/timing pullback mode on the 2-3 shift from all the detonation, or the big bog at the starting line that allowed Ole to jump a car length in front of me at the 60' mark. Once I get the tuning sorted this thing will hit high 13s without any additional boost.

That is, once I get my MS all set up because EZK is garbage in high boost applications.
i ran 30psi on ezk with no issues, dont blame the engine management, blame the owner :P
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Thank you very much everybody... i now feel sufficiently retarded and will go cry in the corner...
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:38 PM   #203
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Yeah, on E85. And you still bent all your rods
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:34 AM   #204
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bent all the rods on pump with no chips on 850 turbo injectors. bro

25 psi on the holset on a b230f+t on 91 with no issues or bent rods :P


get your **** sorted
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:55 AM   #205
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Been having some random engine quits here and there. Since the car was going way lean right before quitting I determined the fuel pump relay was the prime suspect. Was not disappointed. Seems like all of the relays manufactured during the mid-90s have issues where solder joints crack and require reflowing. None of my late 80s or early 90s (through '92) relays seem to have this issue (this one has a 1996 mfg date stamp):
The ones with the copper contacts re-flow and fight another round a little better...
...not sure on exact dates of that.

Sorting out a whole car to work together as a system, 100 or 300hp can be a life occupation.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:46 PM   #206
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Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
Sort sort sort. It's what makes a car a really good car.
Learning this the hard way. Over and over again.

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Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
bent all the rods on pump with no chips on 850 turbo injectors. bro

25 psi on the holset on a b230f+t on 91 with no issues or bent rods :P


get your **** sorted
Bro, you know what bro? Bro bro bro bro bro. That's right, bro.


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The ones with the copper contacts re-flow and fight another round a little better...
...not sure on exact dates of that.

Sorting out a whole car to work together as a system, 100 or 300hp can be a life occupation.
It's the truth. It's driveable as is, just commands a lot of timing. There is plenty of blow-by and lowish idle vacuum which are fine, it just drives like a slightly tired engine. It really does not like being driven hard below 40 mph all that much.

One of the items in the wishlist is to find a nice B21FT block to recondition. Maybe put a nice set of rods and pistons in it too, more to lighten up the rotating assembly above anything else. B230 would work too but I already have fairly expensive peripherals mounted to the current block and would rather not mess with that.
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:44 PM   #207
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So the original rear end gave up the ghost on my drive home last Friday. Got it out of the car in 45 minutes and called it a day as the family had a dinner party to attend. Saturday evening the work resumed. I planned on swapping my shortened studs in order to fit the wheels but once going, I realized that I had hammered most of them a little too hard, which made thread engagement impossible. ****. Reinstalled old studs, knurling on one was stripped, so I spent 3 hours cutting the ****er out. That was fun. Bolted everything back together, noticed on the test drive that the rear parking brakes are dragging. Awesome. Got to look at it again this Friday. I hate this car sometimes almost all the time now.










Back together. It really does look a lot better with the rear spacers on...










Sadly I am not going to be able to install the Truetrac along with everything else


Last edited by Harlard; 06-10-2015 at 05:11 PM..
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Old 06-10-2015, 05:04 PM   #208
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Yes indeed. Good work keeping that doll on the road.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:06 AM   #209
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I hate this car sometimes almost all the time now.
I go back and forth pretty regularly like that, I either jump out going "I LOVE THIS THING" or I'm parking it in frustration and wondering what I did to deserve this thing ruining my life I figure it's just part of the deal, we're all a little crazy for sure.
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:55 PM   #210
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Yes indeed. Good work keeping that doll on the road.
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I go back and forth pretty regularly like that, I either jump out going "I LOVE THIS THING" or I'm parking it in frustration and wondering what I did to deserve this thing ruining my life I figure it's just part of the deal, we're all a little crazy for sure.
Thanks. And then this happens. Parents backed into it not once, but twice. Also managed to get the rear to stick out a good foot into the road. I'm fully expecting them to flat out refuse to pay for the replacement parts, because that's how they are. I also already made a hit-and-run claim within the last 12 months from when a Prius rear-ended us, so opening another claim would make my premium skyrocket. This car is becoming so frustrating...through no real fault of its own, but still.

This is why we can't have nice things





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Old 06-11-2015, 01:06 PM   #211
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sometimes it's like you just can't win!
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:13 PM   #212
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Aw man that sucks
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:57 PM   #213
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nooooo!
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:41 PM   #214
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So I figured out the noise the brakes were making. Turned out to be a slightly bent dust shield making contact with the rear rotor hat. Much better.

Runs nicely except lean at low speed, making for a slightly shuddery driving experience. Kind of at a loss here. Coolant temp sender gives out an accurate resistance reading at the ECU. MAF wiring is still somewhat suspect. Going to have to test voltages at ECU plug again, I guess.
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Old 06-18-2015, 08:29 PM   #215
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3" steel intake tube. Lean running condition is gone. Nice


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Old 06-18-2015, 09:00 PM   #216
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seriously? that fixed it?
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:11 PM   #217
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I never liked the Volvo rubber intake hoses. For good reason.
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:49 PM   #218
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having more straight pipe before the amm can help somewhat as well. The idea is to minimize turbulence through the amm. That way it can get a more accurate reading.
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Old 06-19-2015, 01:38 AM   #219
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You route your mbc correctly yet?
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Old 06-19-2015, 01:47 AM   #220
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Nope. Going to borrow a tap from my father in law tomorrow and do it. Do you have any of manifold port plugs by any chance?
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Old 06-19-2015, 02:42 AM   #221
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I'm sure RSI has a pile of them. They just stripped like 20 mani's to go to the aluminum scrap.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:58 AM   #222
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Nope. Going to borrow a tap from my father in law tomorrow and do it. Do you have any of manifold port plugs by any chance?
For the plug plugs a regular brass 1/8" NPT plug from the hardware store will do it.
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Old 06-19-2015, 05:54 PM   #223
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Thanks! Picked one up on my way to the in-laws'.



Not much to say here other than I forgot I had nitrile gloves stashed in the bench here. Derp.

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Old 06-22-2015, 01:31 PM   #224
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Few impressions having now driven it for a few days. Overall it is as responsive as it has ever been and the extra couple pounds of boost have made a big difference. That said, I don't feel comfortable pushing the stock engine management any further than this. Load values are already maxed out, leaving me with no overhead should the MBC to get unplugged, for instance. I’ll get around to get a proper EMS in there after I retire it from daily driven duty. Anyway:

-The car seems to like the 3.73 and its slightly longer legs much more than the 3.91. Boost came on much more readily without anything else being changed.

-Turbo feels very restrained as it is, and feels like it wants to move more air...much more air. Now it feels sprightly and responsive, boost comes on strong. Can finally do a burnout with little effort (right tire fire at 4 PSI consistently).

-Need to install the LSD.

-MBC reference relocation. Creep has been greatly reduced. Turbo spools to 10 psi instantly and steadily climbs to 13 by redline in first gear. At top of second gear it sees 14.5-15 psi. Not bad. Something tells me I should consider taking out a little bit of preload from the wastegate actuator and see whether to crank up the MBC a little
more.

-Chucked in a stock EZK. Lost some midrange but at least it no longer pings close to redline or when shifting (currently at 17* advance with the MSD set to pull .7 degrees per psi...so 5 degrees retarded up to overall from the stock map).

-Stance looks off without rear adapters (gotta shorten 10 lug nuts again) and that bothers me...wheels don't have pockets between lug holes so adapters are annoying to fit, conversely the bolts are covered so I can't just run long studs without shortening them. Starting to look for a set of 17" or 18" Nebula replicas to powdercoat in gold and longer front control arms.

-In tank pump is starting to groan and complain.

-PCV needs improvement. I don't like it venting to the atmosphere because pollution, but having the intake free of oil helps drivability a ton, plus there is no longer any oil coking up inside the turbo after shutdown. Probably will end up using a Pro-Vent. Also thinking of getting a crankcase vacuum pump to deal with some of the leakage issues the engine has and to help the rings seal better. Yeah I know, better to put in a new RMS, but I have never seen anyone successfully install one that does not end up leaking within weeks, probably due to crankcase pressure.

-Stock intercooler piping looks ghetto with the NPR in place, just resting on the crossmember. Bought a bunch of black couplings to make the whole setup look more cohesive. Trying to get Eric M to weld some tabs to make the thing sit on the stock grommets. Once this done I can get a cold and hotside piping solution figured out. Pipes and intercooler will subsequently be etch-primed and painted gloss black for a more subdued look. Filter will still be blue for a lack of options in non-stupid colors in the aftermarket. Not too thrilled with the options I have for air boxes either (Diesel is my best option. Filter is likely to be too small...).

-Intake pipe: Idle and low speed drivability is hugely improved. Still need to enrich the MAF screw a hair as it barely gets any cold start enrichment right now (before the intake pipe it would just tend to run very lean. Once warmed up it was mostly fine. With the narrowband signal interrupted it would idle right at lambda without a problem. Super weird, but glad that's mostly solved).
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Old 06-22-2015, 02:57 PM   #225
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Aw, I was expecting to check in and see that you had crushed the car. I'm disappointed.
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easiest way to run 11's is to build a 9 second car and turn it down a little.
My Project (It's a 1979 244DL...sort of.)
K-Jet to Megasquirt Article

The Departed: 1981 245, 1983 245 Turbo, 1983 244 Turbo, 1983 242 Turbo, 1984 244, 1985 245 Turbo, 1989 244, 1989 765, 1990 245 Turbo, 1991 244, 1992 245, 1997 855
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