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Old 01-27-2016, 01:31 AM   #201
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i have 195 60 15 but most 140s tend to have 4.30 gears. i have a m40 and 4.10 in the rear.

i do 3900 at 65mph.

these engines are reliable at high revs. thats why they were used in boats


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Originally Posted by Coupid View Post
I always try to shift around 4000rpm because it gets loud. On the freeway I cruise around 3500rpm. Are you saying that I could bump both those arbitrary self-imposed limits up? What's the highest you would rev a stock B20?
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:02 AM   #202
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From the '70 1800E sales brochure:

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Engine

Type B20E. Four cylinders, overhead valves, five main-bearing crankshaft. Electronic computer controlled fuel injection. Full flow oil filter. Electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. Diaphragm spring clutch.

Bore 3.50 in.
Stroke 3.15 in.
Displacement 121 cu. in.
Maximum output 130 bhp SAE @ 6000 rpm
Maximum torque 130 Ft. lb. SAE @ 3500 rpm
Compression ratio 10.5:1
The tach has a warning zone from 6000-6500 and solid red from 6500 on.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:43 AM   #203
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Last month I drove my 142 with 4.10's, an M40, and 195/60/15's to Tahoe and back. That's two stretches of 4000-4500 RPM for about 4 hours. That's on a slightly tired B18 with a worn cam lobe and some leaky valve seals. And it worked out just fine.
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Old 01-27-2016, 05:23 AM   #204
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Took my '70 144 with the B20, twin SU's, high comp head and running a M40, across Canada. In the summer. Drove for 4800km's, raced it in a Solo II series road event, then drove back across 2 weeks later. All I did was put gas in it, and change the fuel mixture on the SU's for the race. She purred happily at 70mph the whole way there and back.

Honestly, the harder I pushed the engine, the more it liked it. Daily driving around town makes it run like ass after a few weeks. It needs a good rip thru the mountains, hitting redline 1-3, every now and then to bring her back to life.

p.s. keep up the good work on yours!
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:37 PM   #205
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Okay so that's overwhelming proof that I should stop being a baby! Will report back with my findings after I drive it next. Thanks for the input guys.


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Originally Posted by amerbritcan View Post
I used to mercilessly rev my pv. It loved it. Obviously that's a b18 but still. Day-to day do what feels comfortable, but definitely don't be afraid of pushing those limits.
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
I buried the needle down the Yuba gap in the 70 145 BW35 / 430:1's.

Over 7K rpm I think the valves floated.
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Originally Posted by NO_SPRK View Post
i have 195 60 15 but most 140s tend to have 4.30 gears. i have a m40 and 4.10 in the rear.

i do 3900 at 65mph.

these engines are reliable at high revs. thats why they were used in boats
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
From the '70 1800E sales brochure:



The tach has a warning zone from 6000-6500 and solid red from 6500 on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Last month I drove my 142 with 4.10's, an M40, and 195/60/15's to Tahoe and back. That's two stretches of 4000-4500 RPM for about 4 hours. That's on a slightly tired B18 with a worn cam lobe and some leaky valve seals. And it worked out just fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyRacer25 View Post
Took my '70 144 with the B20, twin SU's, high comp head and running a M40, across Canada. In the summer. Drove for 4800km's, raced it in a Solo II series road event, then drove back across 2 weeks later. All I did was put gas in it, and change the fuel mixture on the SU's for the race. She purred happily at 70mph the whole way there and back.

Honestly, the harder I pushed the engine, the more it liked it. Daily driving around town makes it run like ass after a few weeks. It needs a good rip thru the mountains, hitting redline 1-3, every now and then to bring her back to life.

p.s. keep up the good work on yours!
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:47 PM   #206
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Went for a little drive with my friend in his 850 wagon today. Saw some rain and some curvy roads!


Last edited by Coupid; 02-01-2016 at 01:35 AM..
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:50 AM   #207
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Had someone graciously offer to let me use a lift so I took the opportunity to replace the motor mounts. The old ones didnt look that bad and were still in one piece but putting in the new ones lifted the engine about an inch off the crossmember. Much better:

Before:



After:



Thanks for your help Keith!

I also got this new wheel that I bought from NoSpark fitted to the car. So nice to be able to turn the wheel without hitting my knees!



Now it needs a GT cluster.
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:08 AM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupid View Post

Now it needs a GT cluster.
ORLY?

How you gonna figure how much gas is in it?
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 02-06-2016, 01:35 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
ORLY?

How you gonna figure how much gas is in it?
Mine reads close enough...
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:39 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Mine reads close enough...
For now...

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Old 02-06-2016, 02:18 AM   #211
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For now...

Sounds ominous. What might happen?
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:43 AM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Sounds ominous. What might happen?
The correct GT / Rallye fuel level sender is NLA.

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Old 02-06-2016, 03:31 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
ORLY?

How you gonna figure how much gas is in it?
I didn't know that was a thing. I'll scratch that off my list...
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:36 AM   #214
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GT clusters use the stock sender. Only the Rallye clusters used the special backwards sender.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:15 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
GT clusters use the stock sender. Only the Rallye clusters used the special backwards sender.
That makes sense. For people with the Rallye cluster, is there any way to reverse the polarity?
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:07 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupid View Post

After:



Thanks for your help Keith!
you got it!

since the paint on the bumpers upset you so much, I will offer to help you cut them off again
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Is this real life?
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No.
This is TB.
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:14 AM   #217
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Went to the pick a part today, no 140s but I snagged a 240 rear view mirror to replace my falling apart original one.

Love making little improvements.
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:02 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
That makes sense. For people with the Rallye cluster, is there any way to reverse the polarity?
Unfortunately, no. Not only does the sender polarity need to be reversed, but the ohm range is different as well. 71142volvo found a place to rewind his sender to make it work with the Rallye gauge.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=309835
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:57 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Unfortunately, no. Not only does the sender polarity need to be reversed, but the ohm range is different as well. 71142volvo found a place to rewind his sender to make it work with the Rallye gauge.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=309835
So the easiest route for my car would be an early r-sport cluster?

I replaced the points today and the car wouldn't start afterwards. After a second of looking I noticed that the small black wire between the distributor and + side of the coil had completely failed. The old connector had disintegrated. A quick trip to the local hardware store and I had that sorted and the tach wire permanently wired as well.



This is the sign of a good car, showing you potential problems when its parked in the garage not in two weeks when you're on the way to WM7
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Old 02-14-2016, 05:04 PM   #220
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So the easiest route for my car would be an early r-sport cluster?
No, the GT cluster is the easiest route
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:21 PM   #221
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If the black (and green) wires are connected to the coil +, they're hooked up backwards.

Early GT clusters use all the stock senders, so it's a drop in for '67-'72 140/160. The later GT clusters fit '73-'80 140/164/240/260 and require a 10 bar oil pressure sender. All other senders remain stock. Only the 140/164 Rallye clusters require special fuel, temp and oil pressure senders.
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:06 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Only the 140/164 Rallye clusters require special fuel, temp and oil pressure senders.
In which all are NLA correct?
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:25 PM   #223
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You can get the op sender from egauges.com. The temp and fuel senders (of which there are 2 sizes) are NLA.
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:27 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
If the black (and green) wires are connected to the coil +, they're hooked up backwards.

Early GT clusters use all the stock senders, so it's a drop in for '67-'72 140/160. The later GT clusters fit '73-'80 140/164/240/260 and require a 10 bar oil pressure sender. All other senders remain stock. Only the 140/164 Rallye clusters require special fuel, temp and oil pressure senders.
Thanks for spelling it out for me!

I was wrong in that last post both wires are going to the - terminal.
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:11 PM   #225
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Another week another little interior fix.

The glovebox was completely cracked up and I didn't even realize that someone had taken two pieces of aluminum and bolted them together to brace it. Since this is my first 142 I thought that it was just trim until I took a closer look.



I found a used glove box up in the bay area and put it in tonight after a little cleaning. Between that and the new rear view mirror its like a whole new car. Now if only I could get matching front seats.

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