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Old 12-30-2017, 02:24 PM   #51
mddawg
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Great job on the car , Im getting ready to paint my 245 and was wondering if you knew the paint code on your car , really great shade of green! Thanks , again nice job , Mike
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Old 12-30-2017, 04:29 PM   #52
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Great job on the car , Im getting ready to paint my 245 and was wondering if you knew the paint code on your car , really great shade of green! Thanks , again nice job , Mike
142 Green
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:56 PM   #53
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Thanks
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:17 AM   #54
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This looks really cool!

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Old 12-31-2017, 03:49 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by mddawg View Post
Great job on the car , Im getting ready to paint my 245 and was wondering if you knew the paint code on your car , really great shade of green! Thanks , again nice job , Mike
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142 Green
Correct, color code on the plate is as listed above, however this car has a cheap and old respray on it, the color is several shades different than factory.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:28 PM   #56
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ok thanks for the update, yea I dont know how you reproduce that.
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:27 PM   #57
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Ordered my Roll correctors from Kap today, as well as a couple odds and ends to make the car better/more livable. Pretty stoked for this next round on upgraddes (two D’s for a double dose of pimp game)
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Old 01-24-2018, 10:45 PM   #58
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Another updated,

My Kaplhenke QSRC came in, great product, the fit and finish is really impressive, they work as advertised, and I find that my manual rack, middle hole setup to be really nice.


(yes I know this is on the back hole, had to change it due to tie rod length issues)




I also installed some TLAO chips the other night, Looking forward to the benefits of these as well.








One of my pals came through with a low mileage 16T for a steal, so now I have the 15G and 16T, anyone have any input on which I should choose and why? Mind you, this is my daily, It will run 15 ish PSI, and preferably live a long a healthy life.
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:34 AM   #59
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15G and 16T are both TD04HL, so the turbine wheels should be the same, and turbine housings should swap between them. 15G compressor efficiency starts to fall off pretty quickly if you go higher than 2.0 pressure ratio, so maybe 12-13 psi as measured at the intake manifold. Looks like the 16T maintains its peak efficiency up to around PR 2.6, or over 20 psi. They both have about the same flow range. So if you're looking to run anything more than 12 or 13 psi gage pressure then the 16T should perform better.
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Old 01-25-2018, 04:01 AM   #60
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Is your driver rear trim missing the center plastic section. I’m pretty sure I have a few

Go with 16t
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Old 01-29-2018, 01:04 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
now I have the 15G and 16T, anyone have any input on which I should choose and why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duder
15G and 16T are both TD04HL, so the turbine wheels should be the same, and turbine housings should swap between them. 15G compressor efficiency starts to fall off pretty quickly if you go higher than 2.0 pressure ratio, so maybe 12-13 psi as measured at the intake manifold. Looks like the 16T maintains its peak efficiency up to around PR 2.6, or over 20 psi. They both have about the same flow range. So if you're looking to run anything more than 12 or 13 psi gage pressure then the 16T should perform better.
Great to see a well-informed, thorough answer, delivered simply and without attitude.
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Old 04-03-2018, 09:18 AM   #62
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Quick update:

Car has been burried in my garage for the past few weeks



As Davis/IPD season quickly approaches, I decided now is the time to refurb the Weds Bavaria fins on the car.

While I had the car in the air I decided to install the ugly dampener on my single piece driveshaft (to alleviate some of the trans groins) that I had been sitting on for a few months. It broke within minutes of me trying to install it, so another new dampener is on it's way.

I did rip an Elevenses in the parking lot behind my shop, Modded G80 doing it's job like a champ so far.



One of my guys snapped this at lunch a few weeks back.



Plans are as follows for car show season:

1) refurb wheels
2) install dampener on driveshaft with new 1310 U joint
3) Finish wiring my R134 A/C install before it gets too hot
4) Install the 16T and finally have a 3" DP on the car

I will update soon with more pics of the action.
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:01 AM   #63
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What damper are you planning to use on the driveshaft?
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:50 AM   #64
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What damper are you planning to use on the driveshaft?
I went with OEM damper for a Ford Aerostar, the one that I broke actually came on the aluminum driveshaft that I have in the car now.

Looks like this:

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Old 04-04-2018, 09:46 AM   #65
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I'm definitely curious if that helps yours out like it did mine.

Hey, you didn't move did you? Saw someone kinda looked like you, moved into our hood, rolls in an 855T, also has a V70XC parked out front, can't see what's in the garage or side yard.
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:54 AM   #66
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Did you get the damper new? I've had so many transmission leaks that I'm afraid to use any junkyard parts.
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Old 04-10-2018, 09:42 AM   #67
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I'm definitely curious if that helps yours out like it did mine.

Hey, you didn't move did you? Saw someone kinda looked like you, moved into our hood, rolls in an 855T, also has a V70XC parked out front, can't see what's in the garage or side yard.
I am hopeful, we did not move, Still in Natomas.

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Did you get the damper new? I've had so many transmission leaks that I'm afraid to use any junkyard parts.
Damper is BNIB NOS near as I can tell, both the box and damper are stamped "Ford" and "Spicer" and it fits like a glove.

There is more space at the end of the trans output than I recall, I thought I was going to have to massage the tunnel a bit, but so far so good.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:36 AM   #68
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This weekend I cut, polished, and waxed the car, turned out better than I expected.

I used Chemical Guys V36 with a wool pad on a grinder for the cut, CG V38 on a foam pad on a DA, and then Hand wax with Meguiars Carnauba wax. Someday I will buy a better wax, I just hate not using what I already have!

Overall I am pretty pleased with results, and am one step closer to being Davis ready!



My helper washing "his" car, he laid claim to it a while back




I am happy to also report that the driveshaft dampener has cut down on my grumblies substantially, and I recommend anyone with a T5 transmission to add one.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:40 AM   #69
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Maybe you can drive onto a sidewalk or something in Davis so I can look at that damper? I was looking at my slip yoke, and I have about 1/2" around the ujoint. Thinking it might be too tight for that damper. But, if it works that well, I may just cut more of the tunnel. Can't stand my car as-is!
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:58 AM   #70
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Maybe you can drive onto a sidewalk or something in Davis so I can look at that damper? I was looking at my slip yoke, and I have about 1/2" around the ujoint. Thinking it might be too tight for that damper. But, if it works that well, I may just cut more of the tunnel. Can't stand my car as-is!
Gladly man, I'll even bring a jack so we can peer underneath it!
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:44 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
This weekend I cut, polished, and waxed the car, turned out better than I expected.

I used Chemical Guys V36 with a wool pad on a grinder for the cut, CG V38 on a foam pad on a DA, and then Hand wax with Meguiars Carnauba wax. Someday I will buy a better wax, I just hate not using what I already have!
Looking quite nice. I'm working on my old '75 245 and the process I've used on past Volvos has been IronX -> clay bar -> Meguiar's ultimate compound w/ DA -> Meguiar's ultimate polish w/ DA -> hand apply carnauba wax. Hope I can get it all done in time for the show...

Are you using a full-size DA? I have the little ~4" style that you chuck up into a drill. It doesn't cut as aggressively but makes it harder to burn through.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:50 AM   #72
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Looking quite nice. I'm working on my old '75 245 and the process I've used on past Volvos has been IronX -> clay bar -> Meguiar's ultimate compound w/ DA -> Meguiar's ultimate polish w/ DA -> hand apply carnauba wax. Hope I can get it all done in time for the show...

Are you using a full-size DA? I have the little ~4" style that you chuck up into a drill. It doesn't cut as aggressively but makes it harder to burn through.
I currently use a Porter Cable DA 7424XP, but I also have a Harbor freight unit that works really well, and those ones can be had for little money. I use the 6" pads from HF and throw them out after each use pretty much.

Your process is a good one, and that IronX is something I have been looking into, I used to work for a detail department at a Ford dealership, and we used what we called "Acid" (I never knew what it was, smelled awful though) to remove rust and water spots, the IronX seems like that same step to me.
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:34 PM   #73
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Looks absolutely fantastic! Love that color combo.
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Old 04-25-2018, 12:42 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
I currently use a Porter Cable DA 7424XP, but I also have a Harbor freight unit that works really well, and those ones can be had for little money. I use the 6" pads from HF and throw them out after each use pretty much.

Your process is a good one, and that IronX is something I have been looking into, I used to work for a detail department at a Ford dealership, and we used what we called "Acid" (I never knew what it was, smelled awful though) to remove rust and water spots, the IronX seems like that same step to me.
Cool. Yeah the IronX smells really terrible. It's quite pungent, and seems acidic although they claim it's pH-neutral. Apparently it's ammonium thioglycolate which is also used for hair perms and removing rust stains from marble. It sure does a good job of dissolving crap lodged in the paint. There were some rust stains on my roof from an old homemade rack, and this took 'em right off. Makes clay barring go much quicker too.
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Old 04-25-2018, 02:36 PM   #75
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Cheers from another green 242 guy!

Thanks for a good thread!
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