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Old 04-09-2018, 05:15 PM   #51
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Looking good! My 220 also had a massive rats nest in the cross member. I'm assuming this is common at this point.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:59 PM   #52
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From what I was told by a old Volvo parts rep these cars had a very high production cost. The steel was sourced from West Germany. Sent to Plate Steel Stamping in England were the body was made. It was then sent to Sweden for fitting out.
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Old 04-10-2018, 12:21 PM   #53
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thanks for sharing the update, I could read and look at your photos all day long. Great work!
Thanks, I enjoy looking at what you are doing on your 142.

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Are you referring to these parts:

3LQQLi0GR1W4iIpk9BtbfQ

The missing screw can be sourced locally, a local Ace Hardware carries all of these pitches and screw size.
Close, but these appear to be the hinges at the bottom of the two pieces of wood.

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The plywood is ¼" thick.

The top piece is 39 5/8" X 8 7/8".

The back piece is 39 5/8" X 10 3/16".

I should have one of the brackets. I just need to find it.
Ian, Thanks I have been trying to find the dimensions for quite a while.
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Old 04-11-2018, 11:19 AM   #54
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Looking good! My 220 also had a massive rats nest in the cross member. I'm assuming this is common at this point.
I have heard of several cars that had been stored for a long period having this issue.

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From what I was told by a old Volvo parts rep these cars had a very high production cost. The steel was sourced from West Germany. Sent to Plate Steel Stamping in England were the body was made. It was then sent to Sweden for fitting out.
The parts rep is correct. Volvo did use durable materials in the construction of the 1800 and 120 series cars that accounts for their long term durability.

Only the 1961 to '63 P1000 bodies were built and cars were assembled in England by Pressed Steel. The build quality was not up to Volvo's standards and was moved to Sweden and the 1964 1800s and later cars were produced in Sweden.

Last edited by vintagewrench; 04-11-2018 at 12:47 PM..
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Old 04-11-2018, 03:35 PM   #55
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Thanks to Ian at Hi-Performance Auto Service the measurements of the two wooden pieces that make up the package tray behind the rear seat over the rear axle are now known. A friend from the mid-west is sending along the two brackets in the photo above that locate and secure the top piece of the tray.

Cutting the new wooden pieces will be done later in the month when another friend, an ex Volvo mechanic I used to work with at an independent Volvo repair shop, now a cabinet maker will be here to do some work on the shop building.



The new original size shelf will take the place of the taller than original existing one. This 1800S amazing has all of its original carpets that are in very good condition and have been re-dyed in the past. That includes the carpet that covers the tray but was mounted upside down on the replacement tray that is in the car now. The gray section of it visible thru the rear window will be dyed to match, and the original edge binding will be sewn back onto it.

The original optional AM-FM radio below was installed by the Volvo dealer or at the port of entry. I had the buttons and the sliding bar above it re-plated, and then the radio was cleaned, rebuilt, re-wired, and aligned by an old car radio restorer. The radio will be connected to either the original speaker and the grille seen on the shelf in the middle, or the rare, German Blaupunkt speaker and enclosure on the left will make up a nice period sound system.


Last edited by vintagewrench; 04-11-2018 at 07:20 PM..
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:21 PM   #56
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Over the winter the set of 40 DCOE vintage Webers picked up along w/a set of 45 DCOEs last fall were taken apart, cleaned and inspected to see if rebuilding them was an option. The progression holes are the same on both carbs, there is no warpage anywhere and rebuilding them in the future should be easy.

Also mocked up the Webers on a set of Volvo Competition Department manifolds with a set of Swedish rubber mount/gaskets and Cosworth rubber vibration damping donuts and washers to see if the VCS air cleaner will clear the wheel well. It just clears, but it is too close so we will either fabricate a narrower filter element or have one made. The combo will however fit a 122s as is. A brace to the engine needs to be fabricated to position the rubber soft mount on the outside of the inner air cleaner half. The mount is visible between the carb throats and is inside of a clamp riveted to the inner housing.

These manifolds are for B20 engines and the ID is .250" to large for a road-going B18 engine. We can reduce the bore size of the runners in CAD and molds can be printed from this and can be used to pour an epoxy blend around them. This epoxy offers chemical resistance to gasoline, jet fuel, and alcohol and is used by NASA.

Also was pleased to find out after contacting the Volvo Historic Archive to get a copy of the information on file for this car that it still has both its original engine and gearbox/OD which means this is a matching number 1800s. This information is important to serious collectors, and purists.

The original 115 hp B18B engine with 10.0:1 CR will stay in the car, it is only three hp shy of the larger B20B 118 hp engine, first produced in 1969.


Last edited by vintagewrench; 04-27-2018 at 01:57 PM..
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:53 PM   #57
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Question on the matching numbers; aside from consulting Historic Archive is there any way of determining if numbers match? Can you do so by consulting any stamping/casting numbers or is it only recorded on the build sheets?
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:47 PM   #58
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Question on the matching numbers; aside from consulting Historic Archive is there any way of determining if numbers match? Can you do so by consulting any stamping/casting numbers or is it only recorded on the build sheets?
Don't believe there is any other source to find the original engine # for a car other than through the Archive. With the chassis # Lars Gerdin at the Volvo Museum and Historical Archive can give you all of the info including the engine serial # as in the chart I posted earlier.

On a B18 the first of the two milled pads on the LH side of the engine below the head is stamped with the engine type # (the tune). The engine # is on the second milled pad. If I remember correctly the B20 numbers are in the same place.

You probably know, but many people new to old cars don't know exactly what a numbers matching car means. In this case all the #s on the chart including the engine # match the plate on the pedal box and the engine and transmission.

If all of the #s are the same it is a numbers matching car as it left the factory, which is rare. Many of the B18 powered cars that survive have had a B20 engine swap.

It is easy to contact Lars Gerdin @ the Archives: lars.gerdin@consultant.volvo.com
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:27 PM   #59
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Thanks!

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Originally Posted by vintagewrench View Post
Don't believe there is any other source to find the original engine # for a car other than through the Archive. With the chassis # Lars Gerdin at the Volvo Museum and Historical Archive can give you all of the info including the engine serial # as in the chart I posted earlier.

On a B18 the first of the two milled pads on the LH side of the engine below the head is stamped with the engine type # (the tune). The engine # is on the second milled pad. If I remember correctly the B20 numbers are in the same place.

You probably know, but many people new to old cars don't know exactly what a numbers matching car means. In this case all the #s on the chart including the engine # match the plate on the pedal box and the engine and transmission.

If all of the #s are the same it is a numbers matching car as it left the factory, which is rare. Many of the B18 powered cars that survive have had a B20 engine swap.

It is easy to contact Lars Gerdin @ the Archives: lars.gerdin@consultant.volvo.com
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Old 05-05-2018, 03:34 PM   #60
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Spring has finally arrived here this week and this is a quick update for today: The upper and lower control arms and all of the re-used front suspension pieces have had the original paint removed in the shop 5-gallon Safety-Kleen carburetor cleaner machine powered by an agitator.

Following the stripping the very small amount surface rust on the pieces was removed with chemical rust removers. Suspension pieces, coil springs or any highly stressed components should not be abrasive-blasted as the process surface-hardens the metal which can cause cracks to form in the future.

All of the pieces were painted here in the shop spray booth with an epoxy primer and a two-part urethane satin-finish similar to the original coating. The car is used often in the good weather months, and no effort was made to have a perfect finish, only to preserve the parts as the car has to be driven on gravel roads every time it goes out.

The lower control arms have already been painted, re-bushed, and installed, most of the rest of the parts and new ball joints, steering arms, and tie rod ends will be assembled this weekend.

Last edited by vintagewrench; 05-05-2018 at 03:47 PM..
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Old 05-11-2018, 01:39 PM   #61
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Robo Volvo: We decided to have a little evening fun recently while reassembling the front end during a rebuild.

Photo #1 checking the camber.



Photo #2 setting the toe-in.



Photo # 3 checking the caster.

Last edited by vintagewrench; 05-11-2018 at 02:35 PM..
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Old 05-11-2018, 02:34 PM   #62
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Realy butiful P1800 you got here!
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Old 05-11-2018, 07:33 PM   #63
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Those shoes steel belted or bias ply?
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Old 05-13-2018, 12:08 PM   #64
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Realy butiful P1800 you got here!
Thank you, I was very lucky to find this car, hope to finish the front end up this week and get it back on the road for the season.

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Those shoes steel belted or bias ply?
"Wibram" tread radials. Perfect for the Vermont country gravel and paved roads.

How is your 1800E coming along at the body shop?
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Old 05-13-2018, 06:26 PM   #65
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How is your 1800E coming along at the body shop?
That's a good question; it was supposed to be in paint "in 2-3 weeks" about a month ago. But to be fair I told them that I still need to clear out room in my barn for it and not to hurry.

It's the eternal project at this point. I was supposed to have crated up the engine bits and pieces and shipped them off to Eric & Ian in March but I've got a lot of family stuff going on and the engine still sits in pieces in the basement of my barn. Maybe it will be on the road in 2019 (I've said that for the past 2-3 years).
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