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Old 05-15-2018, 01:50 PM   #1
Brandonium
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Default The 142e decade build...or sooner hopefully.

I've had my '71 142 for about 5 years this upcoming December. I had planned on starting on the rebuild sooner but for life reasons I didn't. Since the car is now in my garage and I have daily access to it I have started preliminary work...or at least sketching out what I want, if it's doable and since I have no definite time frame for completion I suppose I can wait out any technical difficulties as they pop up.

Suspension


This 142 will not be lowered sadly. I know this probably goes against the grain but I just don't like the way my car rides, handles or looks lowered so I cam going to fill her out somewhat. Instead I will be tossing in the following for suspension:

- +50mm rear 5" coils
- +25mm front 5" coils
- Adjustable Panhard
- Adjustable Torque rods
- IPD Sways (already on vehicle)
- +50mm GAZ adjustable rear shocks
- +25mm GAZ adjustable front shocks
- Weller steelies 16x8 (5x108) ET-20
- Cooper Cobra P235/55R16 OWL

ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

I'm way past my lower appendage in trying to figure out the electronics and how I want that to play out. So far this is what I am planning:

- Rallye cluster (being rebuilt by Roger) with custom warning lights + Lambda and split out turn signals
- Two aircraft instruments that monitor oil temp / ambient air temp / Duel Fuel-Air ratio
- Arduino Rallye Cluster control including aircraft instruments
- Megasquirt ECU (MS3X)
- Speedhut GPS speedbox for Speedo
- Bluetooth / Aux / preamp output modified Volvo FM / 8-Track radio
- Raspberry Pi Android Auto
- Front / Rear Fogs
- Heated Seats
- Rear shelf A/C
- Backup camera
- TPMS
- Possibly RFID door lock/unlock and immobilizer (dead last on list of electronic upgrades to incorporate)

This is how I see the layout for this.

Engine sensors --> Megasquirt --> Arduino --> Gauges --> Pi

Only reason I want to send that data to pi is to have options such as having additional engine data present if I need it. There's a guy out there who has a python script taking engine data and basically assembling it into a trip computer of sorts.. I'd like to have that data available even if I don't use it immediately.

Pi will handle audio, GPS, Backup camera and whatever else I'm able to do.








Engine / Transmission

Definitely looking to get as much as I can out of it without it being bad mannered. I'll even look into going the Turbo route if need be. As of right now all I know I'm set on:

- ITB setup
- Engine balancing and blueprint
- Possible turbo / ITB setup (Turbo seems taboo this side of the pond but Swedes seem to like that option... and I trust the people who actually made the car ).
- If I can work out satisfactory power (180 hp) going the NA route then that is what I would prefer.
- I will probably keep the M41 since any other option out there will compromise the long throw shift and I love having a long throw in this car too much to sacrifice that. It just adds to the charm IMHO.

Body

- Full size spare mounted on vintage roof rack (I have the rack already but plan on only using the mounts and having a shop make me a sturdier variation).
- Two one up bike trays for the roof rack.
- Sliding rag top (75/25 at this point)
- Whatever body work and the necessary paint job. (only rust is in passenger spare tire well)
- Front Fogs / Rear Fog

Interior

- Re-upholstery
- Carpet
- Sound deadening

That's about it for now!
-Brandon
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:23 PM   #2
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Nice. I love that afr gauge.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:27 PM   #3
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Looks good but I doubt 235s are going to work at 20et.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 05-15-2018, 02:35 PM   #4
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There's a guy running 235's with -10 ET with overload 240 springs in the rear. He's already out there beyond what most feel fits. As long as the back is high enough you shouldn't have to worry about that. It's those who are lowering where that seems to be more of a concern.

Or am I missing something? I can attach pics of the 142 in question.

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Looks good but I doubt 235s are going to work at 20et.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:38 PM   #5
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Or am I missing something?



You're missing 20mm pal.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:41 PM   #6
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nice. I love that afr gauge.
+100
wow!
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:50 PM   #7
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Hold on. I had to go back and re-read but we are talking -20 ET and not +20 ET right? The car in question is running -20 ET with that tire size so the only difference in mm between -10 and -20 ET is 10mm or .39"

Where is the 20mm coming from?

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You're missing 20mm pal.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:53 PM   #8
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Where is the 20mm coming from?


140 offset is 40.
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:08 PM   #9
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140 offset is 40.
This. 140 offset is not the same as 240 offset. 40mm stock = much higher offset. Similar to a lot of modern wrong-wheel drive cars.
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:31 PM   #10
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^

A set of 16x7x43et V70 wheels would be a much better choice.
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:11 PM   #11
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I'm a steelie fan through and through. Ok so I double and tripled checked with the owner of said vehicle and questioned what his actual offset was and it winds up that it's actually +10 so my apologies.

So does +10 seem doable or even 0 et? I can always test with adapters just to see where the wheel sits before committing to a custom set of steel wheels which is probably what I will do. That is once my suspension components are in place.

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^

A set of 16x7x43et V70 wheels would be a much better choice.
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
^

A set of 16x7x43et V70 wheels would be a much better choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandonium View Post
I'm a steelie fan through and through. Ok so I double and tripled checked with the owner of said vehicle and questioned what his actual offset was and it winds up that it's actually +10 so my apologies.

So does +10 seem doable or even 0 et? I can always test with adapters just to see where the wheel sits before committing to a custom set of steel wheels which is probably what I will do. That is once my suspension components are in place.


The wheels I mentioned above are steel wheels.

And no unless you get the offset close see below.

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Stretch some 165s and it might work.
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:00 PM   #13
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Here is a stance that I would like on my 142. Either this or in between this and the rallye setup that I can attach pictures of. Here are the details from the owner that has this setup. For some reason when I punch these details in the offset calc I get -50 et that can't be right can it? Here are the pictures along with details:

Suspension lowered 100mm in front / 60mm rear

Tires are 195/50-16

All that has been modified body wise is the 1" inside lip.




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Old 05-21-2018, 04:53 PM   #14
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Looks like he's poking pretty hard, that's not much backspacing.

BTW some late ~[73+] 164 springs will raise the front end a good 2".
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:17 PM   #15
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I would be surprised if he doesn't rub in the back. That's about what my 144 looked like when I got it and it rubbed like crazy.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:40 PM   #16
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7-9 steel wheels @ 15x6x25ET with 195-65-15 tires will work fine, if you're not after the steamroller look.
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:19 PM   #17
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Or, for that matter, stock 140/164 rims with 195/65R15 tires. My '72 142E came with that size on the stock 15x5x40 rims. On 164E steelies, you can run 205/65R15's, which will be close to stock, diameter-wise, so the speedometer will read correctly.
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:23 PM   #18
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195/70R15 on a 164E rim in the left front spot. The left rear rim on this car was a 140 rim with a 165R15.

1973 164E M410/sunroof car. The Albatross. Arrived in October 2001, left in February 2004.

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Old 05-22-2018, 09:27 AM   #19
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Speedometer correction won't be much of an issue for me since I will be running a GPS speedbox so any size tire should register correct MPH with the speedo. Remainder of the gauges I'm looking to control with an Arduino micro-controller so no more of this having to source non obtainable sending units. Also, since it's EFI and I'll be running MS I plan on having that sensor data input directly into MS and from there output to my cluster via Arduino.

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Or, for that matter, stock 140/164 rims with 195/65R15 tires. My '72 142E came with that size on the stock 15x5x40 rims. On 164E steelies, you can run 205/65R15's, which will be close to stock, diameter-wise, so the speedometer will read correctly.
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:44 AM   #20
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A few other items I failed to mention that are in the plans:

- Front turn signal delete (will incorporate the front parking lamp and side marker light for each corner as turns when engaged)
- May change over to 164 side markers
- '67 - '70 front grill (possible fog inserts)
- Antenna delete
- Spare tire well delete (both sides)

My bumpers are not in the best of shape. The metal is ok but the rubber is ****. Since replacements are non-existent I may look at either having the existing bumper altered to receive another vintage make/model rubber insert )ie BMW 2002 or have other make/model bumpers altered and modified for the 142. The rear bumper for a BMW CS 3.0 looks promising it's only 1.6" shorter in width than the 142 bumper so that's also an idea.

First order of business though and something actively in progress is the electronic upgrade portion since that is the most painstaking. If what I am doing can help others down the road with these clusters I'll gladly post and keep updating here.
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:46 AM   #21
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I'm guessing that is due to the extra weight of the B30?

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Looks like he's poking pretty hard, that's not much backspacing.

BTW some late ~[73+] 164 springs will raise the front end a good 2".
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Old 05-22-2018, 04:58 PM   #22
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I'm guessing that is due to the extra weight of the B30?


Also I probably have some rubber baby buggy bumper rubbers.
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:28 AM   #23
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ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

So a couple of questions as I spent all weekend working on Megasquirt pinouts and what options I have moving forward.

1). My 142 manual doesn't reference this but does anyone happen to know what voltage or resistance values are expected when coming from the brake warning circuit when it triggers the brake warning indicator? I'm assuming it's the same voltage that triggers the indicator when the e-brake is engaged?

2). For the M41 Type J OD unit the OD switch initializes the relay based on no continuity vs 0 ohms or am I mistaken?
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:55 PM   #24
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1) The warning valve switch and parking brake switch complete the ground side of the circuit to the indicator light. They are both connected to the same terminal so either one can illuminate the indicator light.

2) There is no relay for the overdrive on a 140. When activated, the column switch illuminates the indicator light on the dash and sends +12 volts to the 4th gear lockout switch on the trans. When in 4th gear, the lockout switch then passes power to the solenoid.
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:18 PM   #25
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Thank you!!!

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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
1) The warning valve switch and parking brake switch complete the ground side of the circuit to the indicator light. They are both connected to the same terminal so either one can illuminate the indicator light.

2) There is no relay for the overdrive on a 140. When activated, the column switch illuminates the indicator light on the dash and sends +12 volts to the 4th gear lockout switch on the trans. When in 4th gear, the lockout switch then passes power to the solenoid.
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