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Old 11-03-2011, 11:05 PM   #1
JohnMc
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Default PV flunks safety inspection

10 years of thrashing with very little work done on it sort of caught up to me at this years safety inspection (every two years). Maybe the mechanic was in a picky mood, but more like I've just let a bit of a maintenance backlog develop.

Loose upper a-arm bushings - metal on metal bushings on a PV. $115 per side after some internet sleuthing.

Loose rear suspension bushings - deal - $79 for a complete set from IPD

Worn front brake pads - Already have a set sitting around the garage somewhere

Leaking exhaust pipe - probably where I MIG'ed a V-band clamp on at the header collector after it broke earlier this year - I did it in place and probably didn't get it around the top very well.

Maybe I'll take some extra time on it and stick that LSD I got for it a good 5 or 6 years ago. No reason for it to gather dust in basement forever. The thing is already pretty willing to hang the rear end out, an LSD should make it even more fun.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:13 PM   #2
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Gee whizz I think I'd rather deal with a smog check than all of that safe car stuff.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:13 PM   #3
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Cheap way to find out what's wrong with it, and easier then inspecting it yourself.

I have had safety inspections where they checked nothing.
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:21 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by vlvman View Post
Cheap way to find out what's wrong with it, and easier then inspecting it yourself.

I have had safety inspections where they checked nothing.
S-L-O-W economy.....le$$ in play for most everyone.....make it whilst ya can....

guys at the two shops I work with and out of are BOTH "down in cars per day"
in absolute and work order "numbers"....not a good time to be in the service
industry...(still GOOD if you have the SKILLSET....you can always adjust
your "situation" as it were....

it'll be FUNNER when yer done w/the suspension goodies and the new diff...
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:26 AM   #5
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move to a more lax place that doesn't check that stuff
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:32 AM   #6
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I was considering that. They aren't looking for repair work though, they said they wouldn't be the ones to go to for working on a car that old.

Ordered $300 worth of supension bits. Those upper/inner pivot kits are $115 each. Glad they're still available though. 3 of the 4 pivots on the PV's front suspension are metal on metal bushings, only the lower/inner pivots ar rubber, and even then very small thread spool sized rubber bushings (same thing as the upper A-arm bushings on a 122/1800).

That little axle looking thing bolts to the crossmember, with the two bolts, then those chunky nut looking things screw/press into the arms and thread onto the threaded ends of the axle. So it pivots on the threaded interface. Grease fittings fit onto the outside faces of those nut-like bushings. And the two rubber sleeves get fit in between the bushings and the axle to act as gease seals. Kind of neat in a way - you can disassemble and replace everything on a PV's front suspension with a jack and an adjustable wrench - nothing needs to get press fit.

I almost bought all the rear suspension bushings from Swedish Treasures (where I got the front suspension parts) but buying them piecemeal added up to a fairly substantial amount of money for some old rubber bits, so I looked around and found a complete set for less money on IPD, all in squeaky blue poly:



Rear suspensions are weird in PV's.


In early cars, the axle was more firmly bolted to the lower control arms, and there were no upper control arms at all to control torque. Probably worked ok with the 65 hp B14 models. Then the B16 was introduced, with a scary 75 or 80 HP, and it probably started to induce some torque feedback into the rear suspension, so some torque control upper arms were sort of inelegantly added to the suspension. They bolted a bracket to the top of the diff, and used some short solid metal rods leading forward to a bracket bolted to the body. And used a 'mushier' bushing between the axle and the u-bolts that hold it to those lower arms.

In any case, the lower arms reach in diagonally from the axle to mount to the back end of the driveshaft tunnel, and those torque arms reach straight forward to the same place - it's a rather highly stressed and rust prone place. I've seen PV's in junkyards where the entire rear axle ripped loose. Fun!

Out of this whole process, I'm anticipating the most grief from those upper torque rods - they're solid metal, have threaded ends. They've been rusting into one-ness with the nuts for 48 years, I really can't see them being cooperative at all. In fact, I anticipate having to cut the nuts off, chase the threads, and use new nuts. At least the brackets it mounts to unbolt from the body and the diff, so I can probably get it out from under the car to work on those stuck rod nuts more easily.

All in all, I never really noticed any looseness in the rear suspension, it's not like the car would push or pull on/off power. Front suspension has gotten a bit numb and slightly stiff over the years, probably more a case of needing an alignment than anything else.

Last edited by JohnMc; 11-04-2011 at 09:38 AM..
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:38 AM   #7
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I *MAY* be "mis-remembering" but I think someone posted recently that had tried a "new spray
FREEZE can" that thermally shocked the fasteners...might be worth looking into... I know
for YEARS I used the "hot wrench" to remove rusted fasteners but the "poster" was THRILLED
w/the product.."spray and spin off" was the essential result of the aerosol....hmmmmmm
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:51 AM   #8
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Also, a distinct possibility for those torque rods is that the middle part where the rubber ists is rusted a bunch, and any torque applied to it with a wrench will result in it snapping. And replacement PV torque arms are probably not easy to find, probably almost easier to make replacements out of tubes and bolts.

Oy, I'm not expecting to enjoy this.
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:47 PM   #9
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There's a PV for sale not too far from me. http://greenbay.craigslist.org/cto/2649989960.html
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:04 PM   #10
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For some reason, the PV is the most fun Volvo I've ever driven. I've owned or extensively driven a bunch of push-rod Volvos:
1963 122 sedan (with B20E, M41 swapped in)
1967 122 wagon (B18, Bw35, set the sundial and check the 0-60)
1971 1800E
1971 145S
1972 1800E
1973 145E

The PV is just somehow more entertaining and fun and enjoyable.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
So it pivots on the threaded interface.
I had some MGA's way back, and they have kingpins that work the same way, roughly.

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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Rear suspensions are weird in PV's.

Yeah buddy. How's your clutch linkage?

I'm with you on the fun old car feeling. I think my most fun-to-drive Volvo was the '60 122.
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Old 11-05-2011, 01:05 AM   #12
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the NAME ALONE IS *HIGH LARRY US* see:
http://www.seekpart.com/company/3526...414311245.html

CRC *FREEZE-OFF*
http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/en...tCategoryCode=

LOCTITE *FREEZE*
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
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Old 11-05-2011, 02:29 AM   #13
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a "new spray FREEZE can" that thermally shocked the fasteners...
we just got a newish product by Wurth called "Rost Off Ice" that does this- it seems to work really well. just don't get it on your fingers, it is cold as hell and will burn you in short order.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:45 PM   #14
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the NAME ALONE IS *HIGH LARRY US* see:
http://www.seekpart.com/company/3526...414311245.html
It's what you yell right before you throw a wrench across the garage and grab that stuff?

Anyhow, it must be a Christmas Miracle (early, of course). I set about taking the rear suspension apart tonight, and so far, it's 3/4 off, and everything has come off fairly easily.

Those funky little torque rods with the nuts on both ends - came right off, didn't even fight a bit. Oddly enough, the metal underneath the rubber bushing pads was not even rusty. I had to unbolt the forward bracket from the body as there's no access to the nuts on the torque rods with it in place, no problem there at all either.

The U-bolt holding the axle to the lower arm - no problem. The big fine threaded bolt on the front of the arm put up a fair amount of resistance, it was really hard to initially budge, but once it was moving, came right off. Now the only thing left on (I got tired of working on it for tonight) is the left lower control arm.

I haven't taken the front suspension apart yet, but I did check the two bolts that hold that upper/inner pivot knuckle thing to the cross member - I was thinking those would put up a fight, but they loosened easily too.

I guess credit has to go to the leaky B18 that used to be in there, keeping the underside oiled. I'd like to say the B20 I built from a bare overbored block doesn't leak, but, ah, it does, some.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:55 PM   #15
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Yeah buddy. How's your clutch linkage?
Way back when I had to tinker with it some to get it working properly, some of the little push rods were worn and could slip sideways, I had to add some washers, maybe tack weld them onto the push rods. I forget. It's been working perfectly for a long time now.

Interesting factoid - with the clutch pedal down, the cross shaft pivots and part of it pokes down, and it's one of the lowest parts of the car underneath. I went over a curb once with the clutch pedal pushed down, there was a scrape and the pedal pushed itself back up. I'd imagine if you're not having a good day you could accidentally rip your whole clutch linkage off doing something like that.

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Old 11-10-2011, 11:16 PM   #16
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Interesting factoid -.... I'd imagine if you're not having a good day you could accidentally rip your whole clutch linkage off doing something like that.

Good story. I like the way your thread is fully illustrated.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:20 AM   #17
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Good story. I like the way your thread is fully illustrated.
www.gcp.se has the old pushrod Volvo parts department microfiches scanned an online to facilitate their online catalog. Makes for a nice visual reference no how parts look and go together.

Suspension is all apart now, waiting for that IPD package to show up. I left the axle propped in place, didn't feel the need to unhook the brake cables, brake hose, driveshaft.
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:16 AM   #18
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I wish I had an old PV. That being said, one of the good things about living in South Carolina is the fact that there are no checks whatsoever. Obama would have a heart attack if he looked under the hood of my 242 or toyota pickup that are both Weber powered and emission-less!
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:38 PM   #19
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In WA they check for lights, mirrors, and seatbelts (as required by model year) when the car is first licensed in the state. Emissions every other year if it's under 25 and you're unlucky enough to live in one of the blue counties. Other than that you're expected to be intelligent enough to keep your car running.

Never had a PV, but my dad had a 122S with the B18D and BW35 when I was growing up. Nice car, fun to poke around with. '67, so first year with 3-point seatbelts - they hooked onto a metal loop on the floor. Wish I had the car now, but mom said it was either the 1800ES or the 122, and the 1800 was running (later on the 122 developed engine problems).

I'd strongly consider putting SUs in the 740 or 240 if the LH-jet went out. Needed the occasional twiddling, but generally speaking bulletproof.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:22 AM   #20
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dupeeeeeeed.........

Last edited by JohnMc; 11-19-2011 at 08:40 PM..
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:22 AM   #21
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DCOE's are even more bulletproof, once setup, they don't need any occasional twiddling. I messed around with mine a bunch when they first went on, got it running pretty well, then havent touched them *at all* for maybe 5 years.

Back suspension is back together. It's kind of neat how you can rebuild the entire suspension on a PV without a single hammer or vice - no press-in bushings anywhere. They're either metal bushings that thread in, or all rubber bushings that just easily pop into place by hand.

But the back suspension was a bit of a beast to put back together. And I thought taking it apart was the hard part. Just a bit of a wrestling match to get it all back together and aligned properly to slide bolts back together.

And last night, got all 4 of the 3 front bushings replaced I needed to (2 upper inner, 1 upper outer). Yeah, I, um, got on of those upper-inner knuckle things on backwards the first time.

It's clear enough that the 'taller' side of those feet go down, but does the pivot point go in front of, or behind the bolts? It's only a 1/2" or so, but the difference between adjusting from neutral to negative camber, and adjusting from positive camber to even more positive camber. And the PV isn't nearly old enough to pull off the positive camber 'horseless carriage' look.

And I tried to put some brake pads in those old 122 brake calipers - didn't go very well. These were ancient junk yard calipers when I put them on 10 years ago (in place of the drums, that would fade pretty scarily easy under moderate use). No leaking, no dragging since, but the pistons were *STIFF* as hell and fought retracting very hard. And the boots/seals crumbled. yeah, that's not going to be good. Time to shop for some 1965-ish 122 front calipers.

I soon found that pretty much all on-line parts stores in the US seem to be hooked up to some single central inventory system. Pretty much every place I checked could get their hands on 2 (two) right side calipers, nobody anywhere had any left side calipers. All the good sites could tell you this up front. A couple of the less good ones would take the order, then tell you a day or two later they didn't have the parts, and issue a refund. Soon the idea of getting them for fairly cheap (saw as low as $35 a piece, exchange) faded. And I had to resort to ordering them from the pricier European vintage Volvo sources. www.gcp.se didn't seem to have them. Finally got a pair from Scandca.nl. 99.50 Euro apiecem plus another 40 Euro for shipping. But at least they'll deduct that 19% VAT, right? No, fine print in their pricing says 'excluding VAT', so no last minute checkout price drop for me (seems as though most Swedish prices are VAT included, and when you buy for shipment outside the EU, they'l;l deduct that 25%, which is veddddy nice indeed). Oh, and the exchange rate sure has slipped, .71 Euro to $1. OUCH. So a little over $300 in brake calipers.

They had a choice between 89.50 Euro rebuilts with a 40 Euro core charge, and 99 Euro 'new' units with no core charge, I didn't really want to have 80 Euro tied up in core charges, plus pay for shipping two calipers back to the Netherlands, so I went for the 99 Euro 'new' ones. Which I'm guessing, might be some sort of new Chinese made replica-parts? Who knows, they have to be better than 40 year old dead calipers.

So now I just need to wait patiently for those calipers to show up, weld the missing gap on the v-band flange on the header (I can sort of get to it without taking it off, from the right front footwell with the tire taken off). Then take it back for the reinspection. Then do victory doughnuts in their parking lot?

Eh, probably not. But I still need to get around to putting that Dana 27 LSD into the rear axle sometime. I've had the damn thing in the basement for a very long time.
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:00 AM   #22
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We need an inspection of some sort in TN. Half these *******s have a low beam out so they just drive around with their high beams on, the exhaust smoke is incredible from many cars and there are so many that are literally held together with bailing wire.

Oh, and 30% of motorists in TN don't have insurance.

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Old 11-19-2011, 03:38 PM   #23
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We need an inspection of some sort in TN. Half these *******s have a low beam out so they just drive around with their high beams on, the exhaust smoke is incredible from many cars and there are so many that are literally held together with bailing wire.

Oh, and 30% of motorists in TN don't have insurance.

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Old 11-21-2011, 08:27 PM   #24
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I *MAY* be "mis-remembering" but I think someone posted recently that had tried a "new spray
FREEZE can" that thermally shocked the fasteners...might be worth looking into... I know
for YEARS I used the "hot wrench" to remove rusted fasteners but the "poster" was THRILLED
w/the product.."spray and spin off" was the essential result of the aerosol....hmmmmmm
I tried some of the new "FREEZE' product. No lower temps that I could see. Just the same ol' same ol' thin lube stuff.

Product name is misleading IMO.
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Old 11-26-2011, 02:43 PM   #25
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I think there's a penetrating oil type product called "Freeze", but what the poster was probably referring to are a class of products that thermally "freeze" by evaporation. If you can't find them at a auto store, an electronics supplier should have them as they're used to test for intermittent thermal failure on electronics. Essentially just compressed refrigerant in a can.
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