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Old 03-02-2012, 12:04 PM   #1
malloy1
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Default Installing LH2.4 into a B20

Anybody know of somebody who has done it? Not interested in Megasquirt. I have done that already, and have a 122 setup for fuel injection (B21), and want to rebuild a B20 and see if LH2.4/EZK can be installed. I'm interested in seeing how it can be done or not.

I have:

-2 B20 blocks ('71 and '75 - I'm told it's a '75 head and block, might be a '74-I have to see if it's metric or not) that can be rebuilt
-30 over pistons
-steel timing gears
-2 F heads ('74 and '75) and 1 E head ('70)
-1 Kjet and 1 Djet intake manifold
-LH2.4 throttle sensor (I figure it's easy to modify the intake to accept the later throttle sensor)
-B20 Kjet fuel injector holder (I think it's easy to modify the holders for stock LH2.4 injectors - would need to make up a fuel rail and FPR)
-8-bolt crank
-Flat 8-bolt flywheel modified for LH2.4
-LH2.4/EZK computers, wiring and et al

I figure the Djet aux air valve hole in the right side of the head could be used for temperature sensor or maybe figure out a good place to drill and tap in the left side of the head. Little worried about the knock sensor picking up too much noise of the pushrod engine (thinking knocksense could be used to turn down the sensitivity). Also, a little worried about the AMM placement, but looking at others 122 Djet/megasquirt project, it looks like it will fit OK (in front of the radiator).

I also have one of Karls LH2.4 wasted spark distributorless boards, so I can distributorless (the distributor is one reason I thought LH2.2 would be more work).

Would like to get people's input (please no "why not megasquirt it" or "why not turbo it" comments). More interested in "this is going to be a problem", "this will solve this problem" or "have you thought about this". I like to see what it will take to install the LH2.4 on a B20.

Would like to know what combination of block/head would make a nice street running engine. That E head might be nice to use, but worry about the denotation problem with low octane in regular gas and the high CR it has. Can the LH/EZK keep the denotation at bay or can the block be decked to help out? Or should I go with F head.


I did buy the 4 Venolia +.030 pistons that regina745ti had for sale for a long time. Figure I can rebush my set of B21 M rods for the 22mm pins that JohnV suggested. Should make a nice engine.

Paul
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:36 PM   #2
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cool idea.
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:27 PM   #3
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Should work nicely , even the ezk knock thing should be ok.
maybe get an ezk from a B200 engine that shares bore size with B20.
EZK is supposedly tuned to bore size.
Most work would be with the flywheel/ignition sensor I guess
Maybe you can use the newer 60-2 flywheel ??
Go with the F head for several reasons.

YS
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #4
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I'd think that sensors might be an issue. Are the flywheels compatible? Does 2.4 trigger off the distributor at all or is it all crank position sensor?
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malloy1 View Post
-B20 Kjet fuel injector holder (I think it's easy to modify the holders for stock LH2.4 injectors - would need to make up a fuel rail and FPR)
If you got D-jet injector holders, you can use those with LH_injectors. Just cut away that flare on plastic hat.
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:30 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by volvogeek View Post
I'd think that sensors might be an issue. Are the flywheels compatible? Does 2.4 trigger off the distributor at all or is it all crank position sensor?
2.4 doesn't have a trigger in the distributor. It's crankshaft only.
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjaybeeze View Post
Should work nicely , even the ezk knock thing should be ok.
maybe get an ezk from a B200 engine that shares bore size with B20.
EZK is supposedly tuned to bore size.
Most work would be with the flywheel/ignition sensor I guess
Maybe you can use the newer 60-2 flywheel ??
Go with the F head for several reasons.

YS
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Planning on using a flat 8-bolt flywheel modified for LH2.4/Ezk (engine block and bellhousing would need to be modified too) like this:



I was leaning more toward one of the F heads, but thought for some reason the LH might be able to handle thar E head. No B200 used here in the US, so if the B230 boxes won't work, I'll have to find one outside the US. I'm not really sure want the cylinder volumes are for 30 over pistons, but it's nowhere close to 2.3L.

Paul
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:08 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by OttoB View Post
If you got D-jet injector holders, you can use those with LH_injectors. Just cut away that flare on plastic hat.
I sold my Djet ones last year, only have the Kjet ones. I have a set of Saab injectors that have a metal cylinder instead of the hats, so maybe they will fit in the Djet holders. I'll see if I can find a set. It's a game of trial and error.

Paul

Edit:I like the fact the Kjet ones would have threaded holes to tie down the fuel rail/injectors:

Djet:



Kjet Like this:


Last edited by malloy1; 03-09-2012 at 06:23 PM..
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:50 PM   #9
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Saw my first problem. I can't remove the distributor because in holds down the drive gear to the oil pump. I was hoping to just put a freeze plug in the hole for a cleaner look.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:05 PM   #10
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whys that a problem? i would plan on keeping the dizzy.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:08 PM   #11
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I didn't say it was a big problem.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:31 PM   #12
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I've gone down the LH2.2 with my B20. I was a little bit more work than 2.4 possibly. I had a 240 hall distributor machined down to suit, used an early D-jet fuel rail modified and brazed with 240 injector clip bungs and fpr. standard D-jet injector holders, the only downside is I need to use mixture of D-jet and LH seals.
My B20 is a 73 (so 6 bolt), it's actually a B20E and not an F like you poor US guys.
My main reasons to do 2.2 was simple, reliable and relatively cheap to do and I had the parts available. Also used EZK instead of Chrysler ignition.Your LH 2.4 maybe better as you have less mods (distributor). Mounting the crank sensor may require drilling of block around bellhousing for 2.4.
Any LH on early cars is nice as parts are available and cheap "off the shelf" and lots of donor parts.. Obviously it won't be huge power but it is a known entity.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malloy1 View Post
Saw my first problem. I can't remove the distributor because in holds down the drive gear to the oil pump. I was hoping to just put a freeze plug in the hole for a cleaner look.
The breather box on a B230 does sort of the same task. I think the gear would only push upwards if the motor is turned backwards. It's not like the little bump on the breather box is a wearing surface. Just as long as it stops the gear from going up too far.

EDIT: On second thought, OHC cams rotate the opposite direction from OHV int shafts, maybe the situation isn't the same.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:49 PM   #14
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I checked out the drive gear today, and it turns out that only the distributor clamp flange holds the gear down.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peeve240r View Post
I've gone down the LH2.2 with my B20. I was a little bit more work than 2.4 possibly. I had a 240 hall distributor machined down to suit, used an early D-jet fuel rail modified and brazed with 240 injector clip bungs and fpr. standard D-jet injector holders, the only downside is I need to use mixture of D-jet and LH seals.
My B20 is a 73 (so 6 bolt), it's actually a B20E and not an F like you poor US guys.
My main reasons to do 2.2 was simple, reliable and relatively cheap to do and I had the parts available. Also used EZK instead of Chrysler ignition.Your LH 2.4 maybe better as you have less mods (distributor). Mounting the crank sensor may require drilling of block around bellhousing for 2.4.
Any LH on early cars is nice as parts are available and cheap "off the shelf" and lots of donor parts.. Obviously it won't be huge power but it is a known entity.
I want to do this, as well- I have a 140 with a B20 with a fuel injected head (not sure what year the motor is) that somebody already updated to the '75 dizzy and electronic ignition, I have high-impedance NA injectors, and I now live 1/4 mile from a decent junkyard.

It seems like this would be incredibly easy to set up aside from the fuel rail, but if you had any pics of your setup I'd be interested in taking a look!
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:00 PM   #16
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Bumping because I'm close- I got the intake manifold, lh 2.2 tps, injectors, fpr, fuel harness/computer, amm.

I forgot to grab a rail to modify, alt and starter wiring is already in place so those parts will be removed as needed, car/injectors are NA so no ballast resistor is needed, I know I will need to either find a way to mount a cts in the head or immediately off of it, but if anybody can think of anything else I MUST HAVE for this that I'm missing, I'd appreciate in insight
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:22 PM   #17
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Lh 2.4 still uses a distributor. Yours would work fine.

Why not 75 240 distributor and box, and lh 2.2? Would be infinitely easier.

Make sure you get the sensor gap right when you install the crank position sensor.

This should be roughly equal to lh 2.4ing a kjet car, minus the fuel rail/injector situation.
What is the flow rate for Datsun l-jet injectors? They might fit.
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:37 PM   #18
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2.2 is lame.
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:43 PM   #19
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2.2 is lame.
Its fine for a non turbo b20.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:18 PM   #20
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He will want unnatural aspiration soon enough, you will see.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:27 PM   #21
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Are you going with egr or no? Also what are you settin up for a vehicle speed sensor? I wanna say you made one in another thread.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:44 PM   #22
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No EGR required with 2.4 as long as the correct EZK unit is used. A constant 12v signal can be supplied to the ECU to trick it into running properly.
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Old 06-04-2014, 05:08 PM   #23
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Reeeeely. good to know. Does the 12v signal work for the vss then so you dont need one?
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Old 06-04-2014, 05:09 PM   #24
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Indeed!
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:55 PM   #25
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if you want a nice distributor block-off plug check out clewett engineering in socal. he makes a whole set up to install electromotive or similar stand-alone system on a b20. including a really nicely made distributor block-off. k
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