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Atom's Amazon Wagon Project Update Thread

Got the pan welded back together and added some -6 AN fittings onto an OE rail.

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I built a table to section the bellhousings. I’ll take some pics tomorrow. It’s supremely overkill, but I made it out of leftover junk from the shop.
 
Ok, so here’s the table for cutting. I used two thick a$$ plates of aluminum with a lazy Susan bearing between them, put it on some slides with a chunk of allthread (I know it technically should be acme thread, but I’m using scraps) with some nuts welded to the end for adjusting. I welded some C channel uprights and made a fixture to bolt to my angle grinder using the spots where the handles go. That bracket isn’t really square, so my plan was to c-clamp it in place and adjust until I got it to the desired height and level with the table then drill for bolts to “pin” it at that height. Seemed to work alright.

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Then on to the cutting. I started by just making a “contact” ring most of the way around so I could be sure that as I cut deeper I could verify the disk wasn’t deflecting or diving. Then I cut through in most spots, leaving a few areas NOT cut all the way through so it wouldn’t pinch the wheel. Then I laid the trans on its side and finished off the last bits.
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The rings line up pretty good. I’m going to make a few mounts so I can stand my block on it’s nose, bolt the 960 bellhousing ring in place then put the trans section on and start welding. I plan on putting “straps” of aluminum across the weld to help tie everything together. We’ll see.

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That's wild. Safe to say most of us wouldn't know where to start on modifying a trans like that. Why change the fittings on the fuel rail ? Were they not compatible with BMW hoses ?
 
That's wild. Safe to say most of us wouldn't know where to start on modifying a trans like that. Why change the fittings on the fuel rail ? Were they not compatible with BMW hoses ?

No. BMW are all raw hose, and also use a return system while Volvo is returnless. This way I can add a decent regulator and adapt whatever I need pretty easily.
 
Ok, so here’s the table for cutting. I used two thick a$$ plates of aluminum with a lazy Susan bearing between them, put it on some slides with a chunk of allthread (I know it technically should be acme thread, but I’m using scraps) with some nuts welded to the end for adjusting. I welded some C channel uprights and made a fixture to bolt to my angle grinder using the spots where the handles go. That bracket isn’t really square, so my plan was to c-clamp it in place and adjust until I got it to the desired height and level with the table then drill for bolts to “pin” it at that height. Seemed to work alright.
...

Inspired by Deboss Garage's audi trans build?

Very nice work!!
 
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So, while sticking the two together, I was a little worried about alignment knowing that the trans input shaft has a bit of slop. I took two precautions. I made a sleeve of thin aluminum that I put around the splined portion of the input shaft and slid it into the throw out guide sleeve and I made basically an extra thick pilot bearing sized block of aluminum hoping that having more engagement on the output shaft would help align things. Then I put everything together and started with some sturdy tacks, then longer welds, then all the way around (where they meet at the moment) and lastly added the “straps”. I’m going to let that sit over the weekend and weld the inside next week. Then before I assemble anything for good, I’m going to take a scrap plate of aluminum and make a fixture so if I need to duplicate this down the road, I don’t need a spare engine laying around.

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I’m also going to make some filler plates to cover the gaps between the two.
 
I love all the updates on this thread, but I read with hesitation as I want to attempt bits and pieces of what you do. I just know that it will end up in the alley and crushed.
Awesome stuff!
 
Inspired by Deboss Garage's audi trans build?

Very nice work!!

So, I looked up Deboss Garage and now my day off has been wasted. I can?t turn off his channel. He?s a smart guy with some serious skills.

You didn't happen to video the tool cutting did you? Be cool to watch that.
Nice work!

I didn?t. I did the cutting early before work and there?s no one around to hold the camera phone. I did post a spinning video on the Facebook page, but not while cutting.

I always read the title of this thread as "Atom's *Amazing* Wagon Project Update Thread".

You do great work. :cheers:

Pretty much every time I see someone?s post that says has Amazon in it I see that too.

I love all the updates on this thread, but I read with hesitation as I want to attempt bits and pieces of what you do. I just know that it will end up in the alley and crushed.
Awesome stuff!

Oh, I?ve made plenty of mistakes and scrapped some stuff. I just don?t show anyone that stuff. :rofl::rofl:
 
Castings look pretty thick - did you bevel before welding?

I did on a percentage of it. I was concerned about beveling the whole thing and then the bevels not aligning and therefore the two not mating perfectly flat. So, I beveled, then left flats. My plan is to dig into the junction from the inside before I weld that as well. I can say that I welded it pretty hot, it was pulling stuff out from deep in the metal. When I make the fill plates for the remaining openings I’m gonna add ribs too. I’m confident in it.

Edit: if you look at the seventh and eighth pic (the first two with the trans sitting on the engine) in my last post you can see the bevels between the ribs where the blue squares are. It’s beveled all the way to the inner side of the housings.
 
Couple of pics with the pan on too.

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Once I’m for sure done welding stuff up, I’ll make the trans and pan match the engine.

I’m pretty sure I can get by with the rear sump pan if I make a few modifications to the front crossmember and flop sides on the sway bar.

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PCV spacer/Oil filter blockoff/Motor mount plate (future)/Alternator adapter (future). Only got one side done. The second side should be much easier since there’s no PCV in the way.

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Stoked to test fit things this weekend. Not stoked to do it in the rain (as usual).

Modified crossmember (still need to add some bracing, but want to check fitment first.

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Well, sits a little tight to the firewall. The trans mount and driveshaft are adjustable though, so I’ll probably slide it forward just a hair. The good news is the modified crossmember clears the 960 pan without having to cut into the sump any more. Sway bar might be tough. I made a fixture to locate where it ends in stock configuration, so I’ll flip it and see where it lands on the front of the pan.

Anywho...

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Plenty of room to the core support

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Overall height comparison (without the top half of the Volvo intake

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Maybe it’ll transfer some weight back??
 
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