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940 e fan in a 240 effective in SoCal heat?

GeneralBurrito said:
Does the fan only turn on with AC or does it also operate without?
Click to expand...

LH2.4 ECU control:

Low fan for temp setpoint via head mount CTS
HIGH fan for AC pressure set point (switches in condenser on 7/9; single switch used on late 2)

Theory of ops explained in the 700/900 UK Maint.pages, of course.
 
I just wired mine for high speed operation off the Saab tee, I installed the tee in the lower hose which seemed to get hot quicker and I did have an issue with low coolant once when I had it triggered off the switch in the radiator where the fan didn't come on when it needed to.
 
VB242 said:
I just wired mine for high speed operation off the Saab tee, I installed the tee in the lower hose which seemed to get hot quicker and I did have an issue with low coolant once when I had it triggered off the switch in the radiator where the fan didn't come on when it needed to.
Click to expand...

I'm on lh2.2 if that changes anything. And I'm still thinking of which hose to put the tee in. So the lower hose gets hotter quicker? I thought that was the hose sending the "cooler" coolant.
 
GeneralBurrito said:
I'm on lh2.2 if that changes anything. And I'm still thinking of which hose to put the tee in. So the lower hose gets hotter quicker? I thought that was the hose sending the "cooler" coolant.
Click to expand...

2.2 won?t make a difference since you?re using an external switch (so non ecu operated).

I too thought the upper would get hit quicker since it?s right after the thermostat.

Here?s a post from the past
Captain Bondo said:
Always in the lower hose (outlet). You don't switch the fan on because the coolant entering the rad is hot. Of course it's hot, it just came out of the cylinder head. You switch the fan on when the coolant leaving the rad (entering the motor) starts to get too hot. That means you need to increase airflow through the rad.
Click to expand...
Upper hose may cause more sporadic cycling of the fan.
 
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PromiseRing said:
2.2 won?t make a difference since you?re using an external switch (so non ecu operated).

I too thought the upper would get hit quicker since it?s right after the thermostat.

Upper hose may cause more sporadic cycling of the fan.
Click to expand...

Ah, I get it now. So lower hose is the one to go with.
 
Canyoneagle is selling an entire e fan setup, but the middle plug of the raley looks like it's missing the connectors and wire, so I'm just looking at options of either rewiring it or finding another complete plug
 
I took the mechanical fan off my 1991 740 Turbo and never got around to putting another on back on. I'm running off just the pusher fan on the condenser right now. Wheeeeee!
 
That's great he offers that stuff. That's how I professionally repair bad circuits- NEW terminal ends and new wiring.
 
I'm going to just be getting dave's stuff then, waterproof connectors just to make sure everything's good.

Does it matter whether I use the 1.0 mm? wire and the "fat" 2.5 mm? wire?
 
DET17 said:
Dave, do you have on/off data from the belt driven fan thermostatic clutch to validate this?

Doesn't the total airflow in SCFM depend upon how it is controlled? I don't believe the LH2.4 ECU controls the 9 series E-fan in the same fashion as an external trigger source.

I know you went far beyond 99% of TBers in E-fan experimentation and development of control for your 2 series. For most of the users, I expect their issues occur when bogged down in traffic with AC cycling..... the 9 series fan on HIGH moves some air. The only T-stat fan I've got in my fleet is on my 93 AERO Van with 4.0L, and I know I can hear that thing ROAR in the cabin when engaged..... but that is only in traffic with AC operating.
Click to expand...

I have no on/off data. My tests were less scientific, but just as valid in this case.
Dave
 
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