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Which cam for the b230f is the most worth it now?

GeneralBurrito said:
Jesus Christ someone's a little angry. It's for daily driving with a little spirited driving every now and then. Plans, get the car in good driving condition that isn't a stock slow brick, just want to get a better cam in it.
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Not at all! That's not even logical..Come on, you gonna work on cars there are logical things to do and to have any happiness---and that is the whole point of being here---then you must learn to be logical---within the illogical world.

here's a basic thing you must grasp:

Engine torque is pretty much a function of engine volume and (dynamic) compression ratio,,

The camshaft moves the powerband around--where peak tirque is in the revs and as a result of where peak torque is, where peak HP occurs..
But its torque that moves the car..
Fapping about one POS emmissions cam over another POS emissions cam is max fapping.

You want more fun?
Pull the head and surface (mill) it about .040"

Then get a cam that is supposed to be a FUN cam, not a POS emissions cam in a car designed and built and sold to crusty ol sprout eating white guys...

The car will be boo-coo funer-er...
Get the static comp up to somewhere between 11 and 11.4 and the K cam is fun.
But since people want stupid money for them I'm getting some cams out of Sweden that are FUN cams on new sticks that cost less than people have been asking---and getting---for used cams here in Fapp-central
 
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I'm going to disagree about the hushers. $25 in my wallet sounds much nicer than the minimal amount of valve noise they prevent.
 
^^

The problem is, he is in CA where one has to be concerned about emissions. It doesn't take much modifying to make a car not pass CA emissions inspections, thus, non-licenseable.

I agree on the hushers. I don't install them on my own redblocks. When the valves are adjusted correctly, they are quiet without them, IMO. Besides, I love the sound of a solid cam. It's the percussion section in a symphony, IMO. :-P
 
John V said:
Not at all! That's not even logical..Come on, you gonna work on cars there are logical things to do and to have any happiness---and that is the whole point of being here---then you must learn to be logical---within the illogical world.

here's a basic thing you must grasp:

Engine torque is pretty much a function of engine volume and (dynamic) compression ratio,,

The camshaft moves the powerband around--where peak tirque is in the revs and as a result of where peak torque is, where peak HP occurs..
But its torque that moves the car..
Fapping about one POS emmissions cam over another POS emissions cam is max fapping.

You want more fun?
Pull the head and surface (mill) it about .040"

Then get a cam that is supposed to be a FUN cam, not a POS emissions cam in a car designed and built and sold to crusty ol sprout eating white guys...

The car will be boo-coo funer-er...
Get the static comp up to somewhere between 11 and 11.4 and the K cam is fun.
But since people want stupid money for them I'm getting some cams out of Sweden that are FUN cams on new sticks that cost less than people have been asking---and getting---for used cams here in Fapp-central
Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking about the K cam, but like you said people want some big money for them. And I have thought about milling the head, maybe later down the road.
 
John V said:
Not at all! That's not even logical..Come on, you gonna work on cars there are logical things to do and to have any happiness---and that is the whole point of being here---then you must learn to be logical---within the illogical world.

here's a basic thing you must grasp:

Engine torque is pretty much a function of engine volume and (dynamic) compression ratio,,

The camshaft moves the powerband around--where peak tirque is in the revs and as a result of where peak torque is, where peak HP occurs..
But its torque that moves the car..
Fapping about one POS emmissions cam over another POS emissions cam is max fapping.

You want more fun?
Pull the head and surface (mill) it about .040"

Then get a cam that is supposed to be a FUN cam, not a POS emissions cam in a car designed and built and sold to crusty ol sprout eating white guys...

The car will be boo-coo funer-er...
Get the static comp up to somewhere between 11 and 11.4 and the K cam is fun.
But since people want stupid money for them I'm getting some cams out of Sweden that are FUN cams on new sticks that cost less than people have been asking---and getting---for used cams here in Fapp-central
Click to expand...

:uh:

Don't mean to be a spoil-sport but I'm guessing you missed the based in California bit?
 
Wren said:
I'm going to disagree about the hushers. $25 in my wallet sounds much nicer than the minimal amount of valve noise they prevent.
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Yes that is a good point Wren. Gotta say I agree with you. I have installed the V15 cam with new hushers in my turbo and without replacing hushers in my 93 wagon and it really didn't make much difference. Maybe for about 10k or so. Just take your time and adjust the valves carefully.
 
Never an emissions fail for me with enem V15 cams in turbo kjet and LH2.4 cars. It is called the street performance torque cam. My state used the California IM240 test for many years till they realized the expense of testing like that was too much when you can just plug into the cars computer from 1996 and newer. So anything older than 95 has no emissions testing or inspection here. :cool:
 
^^ Washington is much more lax on their emissions standards than California. It always has been. Here in Oregon you can pretty much do anything you want as long as you don't live in Ashland or Portland and the surrounding cities.
 
Now I have possibly 2 sources for cams. A V cam and an RSI Stage 2 turbo cam. Which would be a better/funner cam for daily driving for my NA?
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Now I have possibly 2 sources for cams. A V cam and an RSI Stage 2 turbo cam. Which would be a better/funner cam for daily driving for my NA?
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Yeah, I don't think that's going to work very well.

Like some others have said in here, post in the wanted section for an A or B cam. I got my B cam a year ago for $60 or something like that. No matter what cam you get, it's still going to be sort of a turd because it's NA (and there's nothing wrong with that). The biggest improvement is that it no longer sounds like it's going to explode above 3500RPM like the M cam does :lol:
 
Streetliight said:
Yeah, I don't think that's going to work very well.

Like some others have said in here, post in the wanted section for an A or B cam. I got my B cam a year ago for $60 or something like that. No matter what cam you get, it's still going to be sort of a turd because it's NA (and there's nothing wrong with that). The biggest improvement is that it no longer sounds like it's going to explode above 3500RPM like the M cam does :lol:
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Lol yeah the M cam sounds horrible near 3500. People have used the IPD turbo cam in their NAs without any problems, I'm just looking at my options here. I'm being offered a V cam for $180 so far and that seems like a big jump from a $60 B cam.
 
GeneralBurrito said:
Lol yeah the M cam sounds horrible near 3500. People have used the IPD turbo cam in their NAs without any problems, I'm just looking at my options here. I'm being offered a V cam for $180 so far and that seems like a big jump from a $60 B cam.
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I'm sure it would run, but it probably wouldn't be ideal. And yeah, I'd just ask around for a B cam.
 
Mind you, eBay Volvo cams are usually from a Penta marine engine, so you're seeing marine prices.

I appreciate the folks saying you gotta do more than just add a cam, but that's not really true. It all depends on your end game. The reality is that driving characteristics will change hugely for the better with a "mild cam". The M and T cams are just restrictive. And 'A' or 'B' are liberating. They're not really performance cams per se. If you're going to put a more aggressive cam in, you want to start looking at exhaust upgrades.

You *do* want an adjustable cam gear to advance these slightly. This'll bring the power band a smidgen. I strongly recommend one of the slidy ones with set screws vs. the ones with holes drilled in them. I have an Avalanche gear that worked great.... but when I tried to reproduce my results with another cam gear, I had troubles. Then I measured the Avalanche gear, and found all the holes wildly off (the 2 degree advance was actually 4 degrees).

You'll definitely need to re-shim.

-Ryan
 
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