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R12 or 134???

T

turbojose

Active member
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Location
SF bay area
Ok, so I finished my motor swap, and now I have an 84 with an updated compressor 94 940... and everything else pretty much stock.... I haven't yet had my system charged yet, however, before I do I was just wondering what all you guys out in the really hot weather use. I'm thinking about converting to 134 because maintainance on an r12 system I can't do my self anymore.... If it's doable, what parts do I need to convert to 134?

I live in San Francisco, so we never get too hot, but I like it cold when I like it cold:oogle:

any help
 
Yank everything out of a 93 240 in the JY that still has some charge.

681-4

http://www.picknpull.com/part_prici...nglish&NavItem=0&SearchCriteria=&#partpricing

Use the compressor line from a 740 that runs back across the firewall.
Get the center dash air supply tube from the 93 as well.

82245GLTPaint296.jpg


Convert to the 91+ PS pump & accessory bracket while you're in there.

82245GLTPaint295.jpg

Edit:
Thanks for the fence today, I'm cutting it down into parts now.
 
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If you want good working A/C you need all that. If you want dodgy half assed A/C that may or may not work in another year because the R134a had a caustic reaction with the R12 mineral oil that still is in your system, and PAG oil mixture then by all means put the R134a in. Actually you kinda have no choice there as you are using a compressor designed for R134a already..

If you haven't flushed the EVAP, condensor, and all lines out it would be a good idea to do this.. That's if you care about down the road reliability.
 
GOT it... so I already have the 94 compressor in the system, and I was thinking about going R12, but now I see I have to go 134 because of the compressor, but do I need to replace everything inside evap core in the car, and the condensor core, and the evap canister? or is there a changeover kit that I can just install. Is there a thread on flushing the system, or recharging?
 
They sell the flush stuff at auto parts stores. You'd just want to get that, and an o-ring kit, and a new receiver-dryer. You don't need to replace everything just clean it and flush it out before use. Many haven't done this and have had fair results and then some haven't. My experience has been when "updating" a R12 system to R134a if you just put the R134a in it tends to ruin a compressor in a year or two if not outright, along with the A/C lines and other components. Also replace the oriface valve at the evap box inside the car.

The short list of things to get :

Receiver-dryer ($24 or so)
A/C flush (comes in a gallon can) ($15 or so)
A general/generic O-Ring kit that is commonly found at any auto parts store ($8 or so)
Oriface valve , try and get one that is for R134a use should be easily found too .

And your time/labor.



Flushing is just as that, removing each component and flushing them out. Tedious work.
 
Not too bad actually. Remove the lines going to it. Then you will see a plastic plate that covers it, just unsnap the tabs that hold it in and slide the evap out. Doesn't require the climate control box to come out of the car.

I usually remove the glove compartment box and anything else in the way and it is easy enough to get to.
 
cool... thanks andy... how about the evap canister? do I need a new one? Right now I have the one located at the radiator core pasenger side... I like it there... I don't want one at the firewall.... can I reuse it?
 
andysbeta said:
That is the "receiver-dryer" part I was referring to. Replace it. It will be full of R12 oil and you can't flush those out.
Click to expand...

What? All you do is draw vacuum for 20 minutes and it literally boils the refrigerant and it all comes right out. My volvo has an r12 system, when i got it it was poorly converted to r134a. Just fitting adapters no other changes. I popped off the adapters and evac'd and recharged and its worked insanely well for 6 years now.
 
Ok andy... just a thought, but how about staying R12? could I get the newer compressor to work with R12? everything is buttoned up now, and I like the layout, and hose arangment.... couldn't I just stick with R12... which is colder anyway?
 
andysbeta said:
It does not boil the OIL out , nor years of mineral oil breakdown residue on the internal components.

I've been doing A/C for 15 years so I kind of have an idea of what I am talking about here. Experience means something but not on this forum, this I know all too well...
Click to expand...

Andy, I know you have plenty of experience and your advice has been quite helpful to me more than once. But I definitely disagree that switching from R134a to R12 will kill your compressor in a year. I also have done hundreds of AC repairs and services. When I service my Flo dynamics machine, the **** that I find stuck in the filter is unbelievable. Where is it coming from? I'm not saying it gets everything, but it gets enough of the old oil and contaminates to not cause issues 90% of the time.
 
Lando said:
Andy, I know you have plenty of experience and your advice has been quite helpful to me more than once. But I definitely disagree that switching from R134a to R12 will kill your compressor in a year. I also have done hundreds of AC repairs and services. When I service my Flo dynamics machine, the **** that I find stuck in the filter is unbelievable. Where is it coming from? I'm not saying it gets everything, but it gets enough of the old oil and contaminates to not cause issues 90% of the time.
Click to expand...

Remember this is TB...
Andy doesn't have a flo dynamics machine nor do many others on here.
Hence the advice not to mix charges.
 
Redwood Chair said:
Remember this is TB...
Andy doesn't have a flo dynamics machine nor do many others on here.
Hence the advice not to mix charges.
Click to expand...

Now that I think of it, I have been rather spoiled when it comes to AC service machines. Even at my first gig, my boss who was such a cheap ass but for some reason he still really nice machine. Been working at toyota dealerships ever since, which also tend to have high end machines.
 
hc12a is popular. isobutane/propane mix. compatible with either oil, so you can keep the mineral. or just mix it yourself. there's a really nice thread here on tb.
 
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