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240 No Injector Pulse 1989 245

C

chrisc734

New member
Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Location
North Carolina, Outer banks
1989 Volvo 245 N/A LH2.4 Pink label Fuel and ezk computers with M47 Trans.


I have no injector pulse to my main injectors but i do have a pulse through my cold start.
The voltage when cranking with the positive multimeter test probe on a constant positive and a negative test probe on fuel ecu pin 18 (Green and white) is 0.90 volts constant and tested the signal at the injector with also 0.90 volts. When i ground out ecu pin 18 injectors do tick when car is in on position but not running. I do have spark at all 4 cylinders, compression is around 120psi at all 4 cylinders. The car with no timing advanced was reading 75 psi at all 4, so we advanced the by one or two teeth to bring the up the compression. The car also acted like it had no power at all two days prior and had stalled and wouldnt start but after letting it sit about 3 hours it started still had no power. I drove the car about 30 mins stopped to fill up gas and went to pull out and it stalled on me and hasnt started since. i have changed power stages, Crank position sensors, swapped a turbo ecu in to check that since i have no spare N/A computer. I have also pulled the maf plug for ****s and giggles and still nothing. I also dont have an o2 sensor hooked up because im running just a glasspacked side exit exhaust. Ill get a stumble out of the motor once in a blue moon. Car ran great until it started losing all its power two days ago.
Any help is appreciated because im still a newb to volvos.
Thanks in advanced
 
chrisc734 said:
What is a OBD actuator test?
Click to expand...

By now you probably have already googled that, so I can jump you to the pertinent time in a youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odE9LoTQqwg) @ 6:53, but it's awful and my critical nature focuses on the mistakes. Better reference is the 7/9 FAQ list https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#FuelInjectionandIgnitionDiagnosticCodes where they call it DTM 3.

Anyhow, your 0.9V readings don't make any sense along with being able to ground 18 and get clicking, so try the internal test. Then we can move on to why you'd adjust the cam timing.
 
cleanflametrap said:
By now you probably have already googled that, so I can jump you to the pertinent time in a youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odE9LoTQqwg) @ 6:53, but it's awful and my critical nature focuses on the mistakes. Better reference is the 7/9 FAQ list https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#FuelInjectionandIgnitionDiagnosticCodes where they call it DTM 3.

Anyhow, your 0.9V readings don't make any sense along with being able to ground 18 and get clicking, so try the internal test. Then we can move on to why you'd adjust the cam timing.
Click to expand...

The clicking was a single click everytime it was grounded. We adjusted the cam timing because the compression on the cylinders were reading 75psi on each cylinder and research on T-Bricks lead us to believe 75psi will cause a no start issue and also seemed like the harmonic balancer timing mark was off by a tooth or two.
 
Likely a bad computer. Check inputs and grounds for the fuel computer and check for continuity in the wires from the computer to the injectors. Pink labels are known for failing, but they aren't getting any cheaper to replace.
 
ZVOLV said:
Likely a bad computer. Check inputs and grounds for the fuel computer and check for continuity in the wires from the computer to the injectors. Pink labels are known for failing, but they aren't getting any cheaper to replace.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the help, I figured out it faulty wiring in the connectors so the injectors would fire in a certain position but wouldn't fire when the engine would rock back and fourth on startup. I completely replaced them and now it runs like a dream.
 
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