Electric Fan Conversion

[turbotankshane]

Originally Posted by tjts1

So if I'm using the stock Volvo 2 speed relay, and want to wire the high speed to a dash mounted switch, and low speed to the radiator thermostat, I believe this is what I want to do, right?

[miguel.760ti]

Yes that is exactly what you want to do

[turbotankshane]

Worked perfectly.
Until after I got home last night, low speed kicked on unexpectedly after the car had been turned off for a few minutes... gotta figure that one out.

[mafoose]

That's what happens after water movement stops and the radiator begins to heat soak.
You can prevent this by interrupting the control wires of the fan relay with another relay triggered by switched +12v

[klr142]

Or you can leave it be, and it can help maintain lower temperatures underhood... It's not going to kill your battery unless you have a crappy battery. I've had mine set up with low speed to come on automatically for the past 6 years or so, and never needed to ever even hook up the high speed or ever had the battery die on me.

[miguel.760ti]

My fan cycles once, maybe twice at the most on low speed for about a minute or so, it's not gonna kill your battery unless if your batt is already taking a ****.

[turbotankshane]

Yeh I'm gonna leave it alone. The battery's got a 5 year warranty anyways, so if I can kill it before then, I get a nice new one anyways.

[getouttamyway]

Does anyone run an e-fan in their 240 with the 80A alternator? I searched through the whole thread and couldn't determine what you guys are running.

Also, does anyone use this sensor? My radiator has a port for this that's just got a plug in it:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7380/...iliary-a-c-fan

I'm thinking I could just get a relay, a temp sensor for that port and a decent fan and ditch my propeller.

[turbotankshane]

Originally Posted by getouttamyway

Does anyone run an e-fan in their 240 with the 80A alternator? I searched through the whole thread and couldn't determine what you guys are running.

Also, does anyone use this sensor? My radiator has a port for this that's just got a plug in it:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7380/...iliary-a-c-fan

I'm thinking I could just get a relay, a temp sensor for that port and a decent fan and ditch my propeller.

There's a few fans with factory 2 speed relays in the for sale section right now, one I saw that was already modified to fit a 240 radiator.
Yes, that sensor will work well, I have my low speed control circuit ground for the factory relay run through it and it functions properly.

However if you put a 9xx ecu in with fan control capability you can just run the control circuits for the relay to it and be done.

[getouttamyway]

Cool. Any idea if I'm OK with the stock 80A alternator?

[turbotankshane]

I've still got the stock 80 amp unit.

[neptune]

Originally Posted by getouttamyway

Does anyone run an e-fan in their 240 with the 80A alternator? I searched through the whole thread and couldn't determine what you guys are running.

I swapped out my stock 55amp in favor of a 240 70 amp when I originally put in an electric fan about 15 years ago. Never had an issue. I'm using the SAAB coolant switch in the lower radiator hose and a 960 fan on low speed. High speed is not currently hooked up.
I would assume most people with electric fans are either running the stock 70/80amp large case Bosch their cars came with or else have updated to the small case Denso/Bosch 80/100 amp units from later 700/900 cars. Any of the above should be fine.
With a cooling system in good shape the fan doesn't run often at all here in the northwest. If I sit at a light too long it will kick on until I'm moving again and it will typically kick on just as I park it and run for a minute or so, but that's all in the summer. In the winter it rarely runs unless I get stuck in traffic or at a long light.
This is on a 242 Turbo with a stock radiator and a watercooled turbo.

[getouttamyway]

Right on. I'll see if I can scare up a fan setup from a 900 at the wreckers this weekend. If I see one of those 100A Denso's I'll try to grab it.

I shredded my plastic fan on Sunday by starting the engine with a wrench still on the crank bolt... good time for an upgrade

[enzedal]

Originally Posted by neptune

I swapped out my stock 55amp in favor of a 240 70 amp when I originally put in an electric fan about 15 years ago. Never had an issue. I'm using the SAAB coolant switch in the lower radiator hose and a 960 fan on low speed. High speed is not currently hooked up.
I would assume most people with electric fans are either running the stock 70/80amp large case Bosch their cars came with or else have updated to the small case Denso/Bosch 80/100 amp units from later 700/900 cars. Any of the above should be fine.
With a cooling system in good shape the fan doesn't run often at all here in the northwest. If I sit at a light too long it will kick on until I'm moving again and it will typically kick on just as I park it and run for a minute or so, but that's all in the summer. In the winter it rarely runs unless I get stuck in traffic or at a long light.
This is on a 242 Turbo with a stock radiator and a watercooled turbo.

Hey Neptune...a switch in the lower hose is a great idea that I haven't heard of before..can you tell me the model Saab that it comes from? I'd like to try it

[neptune]

Originally Posted by enzedal

Hey Neptune...a switch in the lower hose is a great idea that I haven't heard of before..can you tell me the model Saab that it comes from? I'd like to try it

Lots of info on it in this thread and others. I've seen them in 900s and 9000s but don't know enough about modern saabs to say for sure.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...&postcount=250
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...&postcount=113
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...t=1572&page=25
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=155217

[turbotankshane]

Originally Posted by getouttamyway

Also, does anyone use this sensor? My radiator has a port for this that's just got a plug in it:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7380/...iliary-a-c-fan

Meant to tell you, when you pull that plug out, the seal around it will more than likely tear. If you can't get one immediately at the parts store, the trans dipstick tube seal for a 4l60e/4l80e
works perfectly.
I wouldn't know this if I didn't work for GM and just happened to have one around when I did this conversion

[84B23F]

Faster warmups in Winter weather with e-fan?

I've noticed,

1993-245 B230F with clutch fan
1993-944 B23F with e-fan

that the 944 takes about 3 miles to come up to operating temperature, and 245 takes about 6 miles at around 5°F (-15°C) when driving at less than 45 mph.

Both have new 92°C thermostats...so I currently conclude that the active fan on 245 is sucking cold air thru radiator, so the returning water is super cold on 245 until enough water heats it. Both radiators good in summer weather.

Yea/Nay?

[brian smith]

Originally Posted by 84B23F

Faster warmups in Winter weather with e-fan?

I've noticed,

1993-245 B230F with clutch fan
1993-944 B23F with e-fan

that the 944 takes about 3 miles to come up to operating temperature, and 245 takes about 6 miles at around 5°F (-15°C) when driving at less than 45 mph.

Both have new 92°C thermostats...so I currently conclude that the active fan on 245 is sucking cold air thru radiator, so the returning water is super cold on 245 until enough water heats it. Both radiators good in summer weather.

Yea/Nay?

93 245 b230f with e-fan here, 87C thermostat, 3 miles below 45mph sounds about right to reach a "reading" on the instrument cluster temp gauge. Actually doesn't seem to reach operating temp except at stoplights under 30F...do you block off part of your rad/grille?

Even if it there is no warmup benefit, although I think there probably is one, I'd still be happy I did the e-fan conversion.

[ellist]

Originally Posted by 84B23F

Faster warmups in Winter weather with e-fan?

I've noticed,

1993-245 B230F with clutch fan
1993-944 B23F with e-fan

that the 944 takes about 3 miles to come up to operating temperature, and 245 takes about 6 miles at around 5°F (-15°C) when driving at less than 45 mph.

Both have new 92°C thermostats...so I currently conclude that the active fan on 245 is sucking cold air thru radiator, so the returning water is super cold on 245 until enough water heats it. Both radiators good in summer weather.

Yea/Nay?

I suspect the larger grill opening and more open engine bay has more to do with it. Just looking at the two, the engine bay of a 240 has more area for air to circulate and the grill opening is more upright so cooling air is hitting (nearly) the entire radiator at once. It also could be differences in the how the gauges read.

[turbotankshane]

91 244 with e fan takes less than three miles to warm up, I can tell you for sure because my commute to work isn't three miles. It warms up quicker with an e-fan.

[84B23F]

Originally Posted by brian smith

to reach a "reading" on the instrument cluster temp gauge.

I confirm instrument reading via interior heat output.


>do you block off part of your rad/grille?

Negative...I may just remove fan on 245, and see what happens. My hunch is 245's fan is slowing down cold weather warm-up.

[brian smith]

Originally Posted by 84B23F

I confirm instrument reading via interior heat output.


>do you block off part of your rad/grille?

Negative...I may just remove fan on 245, and see what happens. My hunch is 245's fan is slowing down cold weather warm-up.

A fast food tray and a pair of zip ties to block off part of your grille/radiator would be quicker and safer. I wonder if there factory items were available for the later cars...
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=303500

[propav8r]

And how exactly is a measurable amount of coolant circulating through the radiator when the thermostat is closed?

[84B23F]

Originally Posted by propav8r

And how exactly is a measurable amount of coolant circulating through the radiator when the thermostat is closed?

When thermostat allows coolant to pass, it represents hot coolant. But, during frigid cold weather, at slower speeds, the thermostat is only allowing a trickle to pass thru. With an active fan, the radiator is being "chilled," so the returning coolant to engine is "ice cold."

Without an in-active fan (aka e-fan), only outside air passing over radiator can cool coolant.

Hence, at slower speeds, the amount of airflow across radiator determines when engine will be up to temperature. That's why radiator-bras were make for semi-trucks and auto-vehicles, to decrease airflow across radiator.

Needless to say, just put the hammer down while climbing a 9% grade, and heat will flow much sooner.

[Jorn]

Originally Posted by turbotankshane

Worked perfectly.
Until after I got home last night, low speed kicked on unexpectedly after the car had been turned off for a few minutes... gotta figure that one out.

Mine does that sometimes and on a very hot day it will even do it after 10 minutes. Doesn't effect anything.