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12's

I

IceCold4x4

New member
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Location
Birmingham, Alabama
Ok so here's my plan to get to the 12's exuse the bench racing but i'm kinda curious what it would take to do it on the T cam.

I've got access to the following parts now that i didn't have for my 13.5 @ 99

new bigger IC
Angled flange housing for the 15g that will be severely ported
3.5 inch downpipe
531 that will have the exhaust side ported by me, just kind of a clean up and enlargement from what looks good

now the parts that i'm thinking will deff get me close if not there.

new injectors
960 amm
fred chips
and some sticky sticky back tires * thinking some nitto DR in the 245 flavor or a set of real slicks


Then I know if i ditch some weight it will help. Any obvious ways to drop about 200 lbs out of the car, there was about 100 lbs of tools, subs and tires in the trunk last time i did the 13.5 so really looking for another 100 lbs but I'm thinking it'll be possible, especially if i can launch at say 8 or 10 lbs rather than 0, and be able to run a few more lbs of boost on the top end say 20 rather than 18,
 
why are you so hell-bent on keeping the T cam...everything you add now will work much better with a better cam

take out the spare, the jack, the carpeting/boards in the trunk, rear seat bottom (push in fast/hard toward the trunk to release the clips), floormats, everything out of the door pockets, everything out of the car that isn't needed to go fast in a straight line. subs have to go, as do all of your tools.

from there, you could run it with no washer fluid (worth maybe 2lbs) try to see if you have framerail weights up front (could be worth at least 15lbs, maybe more) run some sirius alloys up front on really narrow tires (like frontrunners on an all-out drag car) like 185/60-15, ditch the exhaust after the DP (easily worth 25lbs), ummm yeah. so by my quickie calcs, that would be -175lbs (including your subs/tools). with the extra HP you will have with the new mods, and a REAL launch (don't break your subframe!) with REAL tires, and you could be there, but 12s on a T cam sounds like a realllllly awesome pipe dream. but i think you can certainly improve from where you are now

take that weight out!
 
Last edited:
stockers on a 4 bar FPR

lol the washer bottle was taken out of the car the 3rd day i had it, it never worked.

i wasn't sure if the 940's had the frame rail weights.

Well what i'm thinking is maybe the T cam isn't that bad for drag racing in the 1/8th and the 1/4. I'd like to get a 12 second run on the T cam then swap to an A and see what that does to the times. . .

Mainly my theory is that the torque helps so much in the beginning that the other high end cams don't have time to pull back on me. Just a theory from running mustangs and GTO's. But i think with about 200 lbs taken out, a 1.7 60 foot time and the extra HP from those mods it should make it into the 12's without too much fuss if i can get the good launch.
 
don't bother scraping it. it is weighty, but not as much as say, removing your seats.

a non power passenger seat weighs roughly 50lbs. power is more

i don't think you need straight race gas

just high enough octane to not ping. you will run best with that.

also, under hard accel, fuel tends to get pushed away from the pickup, so i'd keep at least 5 gals in at all times (i know, that's a 1/4 tank) just so you don't bog it off the line.

your 940 may have frame weights, not a bad idea to at least check http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=756818&postcount=158
 
it would occassionally ping on 18 psi on that mix( mainly on long freeway pulls), which if i run straight i should be able to run 20 psi for a bit more power on the top. dang didn't realize the seats weigh quite that much.
 
It's good you are testing the T cam limits. Sad that everyone insists you should change it. Test it's limits then go to the A and find out how that responds differently. Be nice to see a daily drivability type cam, like the T with added lift for more performance. To maximize the low end. People poo poo that idea though.

Be interesting if you could shift early. Guess it a little difficult in an automatic. Might make a difference. Keep at it.
 
Cheap little things to help w/ the launch:

Disconnect front sway bar, put max pressure in the fronts, and I'm sure you lower the pressure in the rear. This won't put you in the 12's, but will help if wheel spin is a big problem.
 
well, he certainly should with chips, a bigger downpipe, a better IC, a better turbo, and a better head (christ, if you don't get over 100mph, i'm going to be astonished)
 
lol I might just have to hit the brakes to keep that 99 mph trap lol. that'd be too funny. but ya i'm actually about .5 mph away from 100 so pretty much anything i do will knock it over 100. didn't think about the sway bar, perfect i'll just take it completely off there's another couple of lbs. hehe
 
IceCold4x4 said:
lol I might just have to hit the brakes to keep that 99 mph trap lol. that'd be too funny. but ya i'm actually about .5 mph away from 100 so pretty much anything i do will knock it over 100. didn't think about the sway bar, perfect i'll just take it completely off there's another couple of lbs. hehe
Click to expand...

true...they weigh a lot, too
 
how do you plan on getting tha angled outlet housing on a 90+ gonna just weld up the corner? and 12's are not that far off ... if i can get back to the track my benchracing ass might be closer than most would think
 
ya i'd like to do it without nitrous, that way i'll never complain that the bottle is empty .. . .

why won't the angled outlet fit the 90 + is it just hard to get the nut on down there or something?
 
yea it has been talk'd about a LOT ... you have to either weld that corner to the manifold .. OR get a custom spacer/adapter .... that or just get a straight outlet
 
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