• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Help me with my first engine project - timing belt and camshaft change

Square toothed belt on my car for sure.
I replaced the seals yesterday and swapped the camshaft out. Measured the clearances as well.

Bucket#1 -> 0.020"
Bucket#2 -> 0.015"
Bucket #3 -> 0.017"
Bucket #4 -> 0.016"
Bucket #5 -> 0.015"
Bucket #6 -> 0.015"
Bucket #7 -> 0.018"
Bucket #8 -> 0.017"

Which basically tells me, that I need to add a shim that is 0.005" thicker than the existing one for bucket #1 and so on - is that correct?
 
To be honest you could safely run it as is, but most will reccommend that you don’t.

Yes, you need a shin that is .005” thicker than that’s in there and that will bring it within spec
 
Rent the shim kit. It's worth it. Then you have all the sizes you need and once it's returned you only pay for the ones you used. PM hiperfauto and ask if he has a kit for rent.
 
Already got the kit from him!
I just wanted to make sure that my math skills aren’t at a point where they need to be completely written off :lol:

@PromiseRing - I figured since I have my car pretty much torn apart, I might as well Re-shim them back to spec.

Interestingly, the original hushers were still in there. However, they were pretty much done having lost all elasticity and were completely brittle.
 
To me your numbers look perfect aside from cylinder 1. Should be a nice upgrade for ya, and get ready for a super lumpy idle below 40F or so, but only for 30 seconds or so. Actually sounds cool
 
Glad you got them. The B cam is a nice upgrade. It won't be as smooth but it's not lumpy gravy either. Still a stock cam for easy to pass emissions testing if you have that where you live.
 
Awesome! I’m thrilled to get it back together. This project has been a great learning experience for me. The 240 gets stored just prior to Thanksgiving. So cold weather driving is never really an issue.

She’s no show car, but is my first car from college. Has so many special memories ;-)
 
So my plan is as follows to set timing while I await the little seal for the water pump:
1. Install back cover and Dale's cam gear. Adjust it to +4 degrees so that the associated notch lines up with the mark on the back cover. Going to do this by rotation CW.
2. Install the intermediate shaft gear. Doesn't look like there's a timing alignment for this?
3. Install the crankshaft gear. Align the slot in the washer with the boss on the block. Again rotate CW.
4. Install tensioner and then throw the TB on.

Does this approach make sense?
 
Yes except you need to properly align the aux sprocket. Look closer, it has the same white notch that the cam sprocket has (yes they are interchangeable). Look at the timing cover again, should be a notch right around the 3 o’clock area. Need to get that timed because it drives the distributor on a 240.
 
Found it! I missed that one originally.
I was reading an older thread around here and it looks like installing the WP post TB install is possible? Just gotta be careful with that rightmost nut and not drop into the cover?

I remember instructions elsewhere on this thread stating that the mushroom seal and the lip seal should both be lubricated prior to putting the water pump on. Does any silicone grease work? I got a ton of the lithium(?) grease from a brake job. Is that acceptable to use?
 
Yes, you can replace the water pump without messing with the timing belt. Just be careful of washers and hardware as you read. Use a silicone grease or I like to use dow 111 if it's available for the seals on the water pump. Just be sure to carefully pry the pump upward enough to make the seal good on the head. It's a good idea to clean the surface of the head where the seal pushes up against it.
 
Yeah clean all surfaces. The reason they say to be careful is because if you drop any hardware you gotta remove the harmonic balancer again to remove the lower cover to retrieve the hardware. Crank bolt can be annoying to take on and off. So put a paper towel in place to cover the hole.

I have always simply used Vaseline on the top mushroom seal and the square o ring. No issues here, most lubricants will work.

Don’t use RTV on any portion of the water pump seal at all. It is to be installed dry.
 
No rtv on the WP gasket??
I thought I needed a thin layer on both sides? The one I had on the car before tearing it apart had to literally be scraped off the block and the old water pump housing.
 
Back
Top