• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

1990 240 hydraulic handbrake

Redwood Chair said:
^ :lol:

On a serious note they make load sensing proportioning valves, as well as the Volvo rising rate style...
Click to expand...

Well, I learned something today.

Redwood Chair said:
And aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves, so surely there must be something going on with the brake bias that has caught the manufactures attention.
Click to expand...

:nod:

Redwood Chair said:
To be fair there is also some measure of redundant safety with a front / rear dual circuit system.
Click to expand...

Nobody here is denying that.



I'm not saying that you absolutely need to remove all this stuff etc.

I'm simply saying that if you need to modify it for a reason or another (and you vaguely know what you are doing) you can do without, but you need to be more vigilant.
 
Redwood Chair said:
Ya the Toyota thing is pretty clever, not only does it account for the static load carried, it adjusts in real time as the axle bias changes under hard braking.



True but my point stands [at least I think it does] that a shrewd recombining of various OE junk piles can outperform a bunch of store boughten racing stuff not only dollar for dollar but in actual real world usage.
Click to expand...

Absolutely!

I think I need to specify, both me John and Eric have the stock calipers (in the case of me and Eric, just good pads. Works good to me. And I agree, most people I see ****ing with brakes just makes a mess of everything (never considering piston size in relation to the master etc.)

It's annoying.

That being said, I think that my point still stands also : the 240 brake bias should be shifted a little to the rear brakes (if you want to improve performance).

I'm suspecting that the stepped master have something to do with this, I need to take one appart and measure stuff.
 
Dual circuit ? Plus one outlet ?

wil-260-11179


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...Qe_76KCvGGDcxlmPGsV4PPRYv_K0h0O4aAq88EALw_wcB
 
Redwood Chair said:
Ya the Toyota thing is pretty clever design, IN THEORY not only does it account for the static load carried, it theoretically adjusts in real time as the axle bias changes under hard braking.



True but my point stands [at least I think it does] that a shrewd recombining of various OE junk piles can outperform a bunch of store boughten racing stuff not only dollar for dollar but in actual real world usage.
Click to expand...

Ken, both in the above and in the description of how the really quite stupid short term fad that ATE convinced Volov BMW and BMC to use, you have too much faith in the descriptions of how it works--in theory..
In actual practice all the cutesy adjustable automatic bulls!t limited OEM type crap rarely work or work for long before they cease working...and for these car were talking 30= years ago..
In money terms it costs more to fawk around sdearching for some "trick' combination of old rusty junk that didn't work anyway, that to scrap that sh!t and replace with a simple in-line limiter---for $34.96
91031353_L1600_b2763bfb-6238-4992-aa6a-2500cb22ab18.jpg


When I say it was a short term fad, the proof is Volvo themselves didn't bother with the complicated junk on their very next project, didn't use it across the whole product like just on 240s for a short while.
It is not sacred cow.

Relax.
 
Jack said:
I have 2 calipers in the back with each additional being controlled by a separate Volvo brake lever

Op post pictures of your whip
Click to expand...

I dont currently have access to internet, and it seems to be impossible to upload photos directly off my phone to the site. It's lowered about 3 inches, gutted, welded diff, spherical adjustable rear end components, welded shut all the trim holes and painted the car brown. It's an na aw70 so it's nothing special, but I plan to v8 swap it after I finish settling the suspension and brakes. Bought the car stock and in pretty decrepit condition about 4 months ago. You can find it pretty easily on the wheel well website I think.
Thank you for your opinions, I'll be spending a bit more time looking at what I'm dealing with
 
StreetForged said:
I dont currently have access to internet, and it seems to be impossible to upload photos directly off my phone to the site. It's lowered about 3 inches, gutted, welded diff, spherical adjustable rear end components, welded shut all the trim holes and painted the car brown. It's an na aw70 so it's nothing special, but I plan to v8 swap it after I finish settling the suspension and brakes. Bought the car stock and in pretty decrepit condition about 4 months ago. You can find it pretty easily on the wheel well website I think.
Thank you for your opinions, I'll be spending a bit more time looking at what I'm dealing with
Click to expand...


Let me try to understand: you're going to finish setteling the suspension, and then drop in some big stinkin heavy V8..

Now I've done a little suspension work and a lot for cars that are supposed to go sideways both left and right.. One of the key points in suspension is what does this end weigh? and What's the available travel?
Then you choose springs, then you choose damping to control springs..

Sounds like you're going to do the springs and damper in the "settleling"
Then add a couple of hundred pounds on one end..

To which I have to ask: wot da fuq?

And a V8? which? Why? What clutch, gearbox and rear axle you going to put behind that?

Why not keep the Volvo 4 and turbochage the hell out of it? I see plenty of 2.4 240 Nissans getting pretty sideays with a KA24DE in them or even SR20DET...at a mere 2,0..
They seem to do just fine...That's a sh!t-ton easier (and lighter and leaves the excellent f/r balance of the car intact.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top