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?91 244 rear shock bolts

2

240-FAN

New member
Joined
Aug 15, 2018
I’m about to change out my completely worn out rear shocks and springs.
I have called 3 dealerships within 75 miles of me and it looks like upper and lower bolts are special order from Sweden (1-1.5 months before I can get them). The nuts and the sleeve are NLA.

Does anyone know where else I can get these from? It looks like the bolts are out of stock at IPD. The nut is also on backorder when I called them yesterday.

Update: Looks like the car had original springs and Volvo/Boge shocks. I swapped out with Moog linear springs and Bilstein B2. The feels like it handles on rails (or so it feels like). Now the front end feels a little sloppy :)
 
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Do you need new ones?

Maybe hiperfauto can source you some OE ones, otherwise you can find out the length and thread pitch and get some hardned ones from fastenall or another hardware store.
 
Sounds good. I’m going to attempt getting the ones on my car out here in a couple of hours.
I already doused them with PB Blaster once as well as I could. So fingers crossed....
 
240-FAN said:
Sounds good. I?m going to attempt getting the ones on my car out here in a couple of hours.
I already doused them with PB Blaster once as well as I could. So fingers crossed....
Click to expand...

I have never had a problem getting the top bolt out. Only problem I?ve had on one of the 240s is the bottom shock bolt gets seized in the metal spacer/sleeve. Boy that was a **** show:lol: had to cut it in half but my new swaybars came with a new bolt, and I sourced my own spacer.
 
Crap! I’m hoping to avoid a **** show of my own lol. Don’t really have spare parts because these things have just literally vanished in the Mid West. Not a single one within 150 miles of me!
 
I wonder if thick walled copper or brass tubing would suffice as spacer material. Maybe even thick walled stainless tubing in the right diameter?????
 
nel621 said:
I wonder if thick walled copper or brass tubing would suffice as spacer material. Maybe even thick walled stainless tubing in the right diameter?????
Click to expand...

You don't have some cheezoid electronic calipers? measure the bolt..Is it 12mm or 1/2" aka 12,7mm? Find hardware store, buy bolt..Nothing special of interesting about the bolt..

The sleeve on the other hand..Ugh..PB blast + propane + PB blast + turning the bolt..
On assembly maybe a dab of
NSBT16N.jpg


I prefer the "Family Sized" convenient 5 gallon tub...

As for alternate matierial..sure why not?. just get the length and squareness right.
And Never-Seeze the fawk out of things.
 
nel621 said:
I wonder if thick walled copper or brass tubing would suffice as spacer material. Maybe even thick walled stainless tubing in the right diameter?????
Click to expand...

I used a random piece of tubing that was in the ballpark of being the correct size and all is well. Gotta remember that when you tighten down the lower bolt it will squeeze the control arm together. The inside diameter is more important than having a perfect length, in my opinion at least.
 
I have this great grinding wheel on my 4 inch grinder. Takes the head and nut off of the seized lower bolt and then you can drop the rest inside the trailing arm. Sometimes Volvo gives you dimensions of the bolts in the parts catalog but I would measure what is actually on the car if you can. One of the folks here told me about belmetric for metric hardware. I've bought a few things now from them and they have been very good. Copper anti seize like the Wurth stuff is very good as well.
 
So my shock bolts came out without issue. I forgot the anti seize on the passenger side :-(
Would you recommend I take them off again and apply anti seize and put it back together?

The nuts on the spring seats were a PITA. I had to cut the drivers side off. Took me an hour - strongest but I have ever had to cut off..
Again, use anti seize on these? Finally, where can I put rust proofed 15mm flanged nuts?

I have a generic one from Lowe?s sitting on there till I can find a better one. This is just their regular ?steel? variant. Couldn?t find metric flanged nuts with any corrosion coating at Lowe?s or Home Depot.
 
You could always primer and paint the nuts if you can't find any stainless, then assemble, and coat with the rubberized undercoating spray once you verify everything is torqued to specification.

I had to use a washer with a regular steel nut because I couldn't find a flanged nut in the correct size on my spring seats.

For the shock bolt and nut, I probably would put anti-seize on the passengers side-- if you plan on keeping the car, but that's just me.
 
Redwood Chair said:
I have some lower shock bolts, nuts and spacers for $14.99 shipped -conus-.
Click to expand...

Does it have the nuts for the spring seats? Those are the ones I?m looking for.
If not, I guess I could always print and coat it with some anti rust coating.
 
Haven't had a chance yet to drop by a local Ace store, but that's my last attempt prior to just priming and painting the existing Lowe's nut that's on there.
 
The lower shock bolt and spacer are still available. FYI, the bolt is M12-1.5 x 140mm.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-hexagon-screw-970986

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-spacer-sleeve-1206640

The flange nut for the lower shock bolt is NLA but iPd sells an aftermarket nut.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5774/115392-front-strut-lower-lock-nut

The flange nut for the spring retaining plate is also NLA but iPd says they have them.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/16455/125913-front-end-link-lock-nut-p80-p1-p3
 
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