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Old 11-04-2017, 05:23 PM   #551
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Here's a very bad compilation of ****ery in the last two years of my box of bolts. Bad sound quality, and various potato cameras. My first attempt to edit videos. I need more practice. But here it is. If you enjoy fire, water, and boost shenanigans , then enjoy. https://youtu.be/LueS7sQmH6Q?t=7
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Old 11-08-2017, 12:55 AM   #552
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Fun small run with t76 5.3 , best sound with headphones. Stop light convo is fun.https://youtu.be/L88i3EyiTbk
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:31 PM   #553
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https://youtu.be/qXbF4-l7S1c

Widow vs new zl1?

https://youtu.be/taHiA6DmcNo

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Old 11-26-2017, 11:39 AM   #554
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Took some pictures in downtown houston. The Starter died in parking lot (8 years old), had to push start to get home , Yay manual transmission. Had to pull transmission bolts off and slide trans back a few inches to get to top starter bolt with a wrench , boo standard trans t56 swap!! The top bolt ended up being seized badly. I further rounded the bolt off and had to brake the aluminum starter where the bolt threads in , in order to get it off. What a fiasco. Added a new bov, data logs showed improvement in response and additional boost quicker , with gear changes. I also changed boost controller, changed boost controller plumbing, plumbed alcohol jets into intake manifold directly. Rebuilding turbo next week. Somehow developed a chip on the impeller cold side, when i bought the hx52 used it looked like it was pulled off a semi that caught fire. New cold side wheel was 30 bux, rebuild kit was 30 bux, and shaft and exhaust wheel was 138 bux. Each wheel is individually balanced, so i will throw it together and send it. Shes running like a champ. Almost 17k miles on it now since I rebuilt the engine and upgraded it . Been driving the stink out of it. I cant imagine just driving one at the track and not daily driving it. Boost is at 25psi now , it pulls to 130mph quicker, than most of my passengers would like it to. Suspension is really soft in the back now so it hooks really well. I think my springs are probably worn out shrug. Anyway , heres some pics of the turd. Some of you will especially appreciate the first one.





















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Old 04-25-2018, 05:28 PM   #555
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Sorry people, been busy, very busy. Restored a 93 firebird, upgrading supra race car, upgrading customer Syclone, and a ton of other stuff in between including t2 k. Check out my videos on you tube "Black Widow Volvo" and the same on insta.

Where to start.. First off , I have had nothing but problems with both intake manifold and exhaust manifold. They have been in competition, to see who can crack the most , and largest-it seems. I have fixed the intake manifold about 3 times myself before taking it to a pro at Autobanh several times to fix different spots. Just last week one of the mounts that holds the fuel rail on broke compeletely off and #4 injector came off the fuel rail at full boost! FUGH!! I fealt the power lay over and smelled loud e85, and hit the key. Luckily it didnt burn down and I used some zipties and wire to put the thing back together to get home (although I always carry a fire extinguisher in the car) mean while , fending off potential thieves in the ghetto, cirlcling around like buzzards, yay Houston Tx. I now see, why some people dont build intake manifolds for a living. Its really tough to get them to hold. I cracked it down the middle of the weld twice at 15psi, then once at 25psi at the weld. Then twice on the thin aluminum where it needed thicker material.

Pics out of order, got stuff to do ..Sry.











































Old turbo placement out and high up...




New turbo placement , a little lower. need new hood as location changed dramatically.













The exhaust has been ten times worse, easily-requiring welding every two to three weeks! It would crack , until it got so bad I could only get full boost bouncing off rev in 1st at around 7500 full load. Material too thin, bracing sucked, design sucked, I failed. So , after repairing it more times than I can recall, I cut copied and pasted another one myself. I bought that top of the line harbor freight Welder, the Vulcan 220, and every attatchment it has. That thing is a beast. I am no pro at all -so as per normal for me, I practice on my own car. I hear some of you sighing, but, Got to start somewhere! So far, I have completely welded up transmission brace, exhaust manifold, intercooler piping, and intake fixes. The intake fixes didnt last, but the rest is fine. Aluminum is quite testy, requires a bit of heat first, much cleaning, and on , and on. I like the spool gun, cant seem to do crap with the torch. Need more experience. LeSigh.

I had a header from something, not sure if its a bb ford or chevy, but the runners were damned near perfectly spaced. With the persuasion of a fixed bench vice , I got the runners almost perfectly spaced. I think the pictures explain the process better than words. The header is a lot shorter ,with a lot better bracing, support, and flow. The car builds boost 1500rpm quicker than other header. I can build 5.9 psi off idle bouncing off rev limit 3 times. Bouncing off it once nets 3.9psi. Before i could only get 1.5psi. Car drives completely different, kills tires , comes off the line pretty quick, even though tire spin. Check out new video "spinnin" on Yt. Car is quick. There are a few videos of me playing with supercharged ls3 , rated at 450 from factory WITHOUT BOOST(he was claiming 550hp with added charger and cooler), and a fun race with a 5.3 , 76mm pick up, for anyone that wants to foolishly doubt the motivating factor. Those videos were with old pos manifold. Every part of the power ban has been improved. The old header was almost equal length, the new is not.


Had some clutch slip going on, got real bad coming back from t2k. On second set of triple discs. Found out alot more info on Nascar triple disc clutch I foolishly ran. First off, good for only 3 races, not made for street , slip. No slip. The material on the disc is sprayed on. So I shipped The entire setup to Darby diesel or Amercian power and brake, about 3 hours north of me In Texas. They made a triple disc setup into a streetable twin disc, eliminating two floater discs and one clutch disc. Now i have a riveted twin disc street clutch setup with brass pucks. It slips, and grips when you want. Works very well. Cost me 400 and change . Great turn around, ask for mudflap 12143505611. Be prepared to talks some ****.LOL. Hes a riot!

original Nascar quarter master pro triple disc, with sts volvo flywheel, dodge nascar flywheel with machined feet.


New modified quarter master twin disc street , rated at 780ftlb.








Also, after coming back from t2k, I noticed some overspray from timing belt of oil and coolant and power steering mix. My power steering let go and started leaking at front bearing on pump, the cover that has gasket behind it for front main seal and balancer started leaking from gasket. So i pulled all of that apart and, even replaced ac compressor as it was getting weak.I also replaced the stupid ass rubber seal on top of water pump that started to seep. Such a crap design.












Thats about all the time i have pateince for typing about at the moment, stay tuned...

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Old 07-15-2018, 01:07 AM   #556
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Been a while. Been Busy and that's good! T56 Trans is still in one piece, Clutch has been a fantastic improvement! Slips for only a rotation or two and grips, yay brass lined twin disc. Old redblock is still strong. Valve seals are showing signs of needing replaced. Nice puff of smoke on start up when cold. 30k on bottom end thereabouts, head was very used, and I shaved the deck-and / or "sent it" so they say. Maybe 200k on head or so. So it is time to do the seals. Other than that it's the same its always been, possibly faster. I have noticed metal flake in the oil since day one. Copper type tiny bits. Still seems to be happening. Could be coppercoat, maybe not. I also noticed the balance shaft has abnormal amount of thrust play. Nice clunk back and forth. That cant be normal! I think really the issue is stock oil pump cavitates before 7500 redline. Causing oil starvation. I will have to build another , with dry sump-the next time. I do admit to dialing the boost down to 20 for most daily driving. I had a misfire that seemed to go away by dailing back to 20, from 25/26 psi. Datalog shows rpm dip and becomes wierd. Fuel is there , but spark seems to be dropping. Probably time for new set of plugs again. I Will change them in a few days. I Have replaced coil pack and ignitor. Just replaced fuel filter with a Wix one , e85 seems to eat them rather quickly, and I dont know of a better solution other than upgrading all the fuel lines and filter.The Problem seems intermittant. I have Checked datalogs, and finally found a wierd fluctuating tps. I Will see what a new one does when it arrives.

It's more than enough power at 20 psi for daily, but I plan to start actually getting results from this fun little build. I have really enjoyed driving this thing. Im now curious what it makes, and I cant wait to start breaking this thing More at the drag strip, and being sorely disappointed in the sub par performance all of the sudden. I feel like I can launch it pretty decent with street tires. But I know the drag track is a different world, and traction will become a horrible issue-launch possibly will prove pointless . I have honestly been afraid to put anything more sticky than what I have now, on the rear. But I know I will need to , in order to get any kind of positive results. I know the rear end will shatter with good traction at the track. So I will have to upgrade the last part of the car , I have done , much of nothing, to upgrade the g80. Replaced it three times so far, since I have owned the car. Ac is cold when I wait for tow truck though- sigh.

A group of buddies of mine , wanted to see a burnout, at the time it seemed fine. One offered to film it. May have Seemed innocent and fun chance to show off, idk, After reviewing several times, and showing one family member, I realized it was dumb. Anything could have gone wrong, and sent the car into a parked car or house.. or animal, or a child..No one wants that on thier conscience . ...I or someone else, could/may- have done.. a hella burnout , in a nieghborhood. If you care to see what stupid looks like .......


https://youtu.be/U2pSpBLbaKI

There it is.. I dont usually go out to spots to just do drifts or burnouts, nor do I film it. I for sure dont do this in any nieghborhood , nor should you. So I guess I should now go burn up a vacant parking lot or something more stupid, and more importantly, less dangerous to others. You know- maybe I can skip that and take it to a drag track?! I really like driving it. It has Texas tags on it now. No more Void Plates. Got a Warning from a state trooper, so it was time.
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Old 07-30-2018, 04:44 PM   #557
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My young lady bought me a surprise dyno session! The Black Widow wasn't ready to break any records, but it didnt break anything else either ( that wasnt already broken. Rip 3 bar gm map). Meh. Here's the video and numbers.https://youtu.be/WxffNEV2n_M

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Old 07-30-2018, 05:14 PM   #558
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hard to read the screen in the video with the glare, is it around 390/320?
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:19 PM   #559
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404 highest pwr, 329 highest trq. 23 psi.
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Old 07-31-2018, 11:15 AM   #560
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Good job man!
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:51 PM   #561
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Thank you.
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Old 08-03-2018, 12:22 PM   #562
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yeah those are solid numbers
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Old 08-03-2018, 12:24 PM   #563
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good job, bout time ;)
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Old 08-03-2018, 01:31 PM   #564
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Meh. Its alright. Pretty sure it makes more than that when the map sensor is good. But when my lady buys me 3 runs, I do it, even when i know my car just started acting sketch again. It was 91 degrees out with 56 percent humidity. It was a hot day!
Hows yours coming along Kenny? Yours made what 456 at around same boost ? (23)With better tuning, better cams and a little bit more displacement? Pretty dam awesome.

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Old 08-06-2018, 01:58 PM   #565
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I'd have to go back and look. the t67 with stock cams made somewhere around 430 at probably 20psi, and then 500 with the spray. that would've been a 2.3 with just hbeams. The stroker made at or just a bit over 500 off the spray at probably 23-24psi with the holset, and did 488 off the spray with the t67. Not sure on the boost for that, would have to dig around in history lol. Haven't touched mine lately, been too busy.
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Old 08-06-2018, 05:44 PM   #566
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been too busy.
Thats called adulting.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:32 PM   #567
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All of that writing, totally skipped out on gratitude. Thanks for your help Linuxman51. You helped me a great deal on im and over the phone with my setup and timing maps. I greatly appreciate the help. Had i not had your expertise, i would still be beating my head with the setup. So, thanks to you and a big handful of others here who i have bought parts from , and got expertise from , and those who have corrected me when I was wrong. Much thanks guys!
Linuxman52 , you da man, you made some power for sure. I still have stock cams, stock valves, stock springs, stock buckets, no head porting. If memory serves me correct you did cams upgrade , solid lifters and sprangs , am i right? Those little things add up to big things for sure. Really wanted to see what it made running good at 26 psi.. But she wasnt ready that day... More to come..
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:02 PM   #568
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I said when I first wired up the Microsquirt , that I would clean up it later. Not only because the wiring looked terrible, but because I was having a sparatic tps issue and a sparatic map sensor issue. With key off or on , both would wander in live data or datalog, as well as running. Remember when I dynoed I was having map sensor issues? Well that was self inflicted. I added a new 5 bar Holley map sensor. Still would run at idle at 14.7. Turn key off , restart, 10.0 idle, and barely idling. Under load it would lean out sparatically . Off and on. So I turned the barometer setting to off, because I saw in the logs that the readings were changing at keycycles, one after another, and Microsquirt was compensating for supposed change. I could not even make a full pull at 23 psi on the dyno(same boost for all three pulls-ecu kept pulling fuel) , after we gave it more fuel, at my low boost setting, , a shame -that was my highest power one! You can look at the graph and tell its running like ****. Torque is all jagged and curvy because we had to keep adding fuel under load , for way lean condition.




So I reviewed the last two years of datalogs and saw changes that kept getting worse. Ok so its time to go back to the drawing board. It appears something electrical is phucky. I pulled back all of the electrical tape (which I vowed never to use again ) , yanked all the loom off and then came up with a strategy. I would cut out a big square plate of sheet metal to lay where battery tray belonged, and mount relays, fuse block and power junctions on it all . MY young lady was sick at the hospital really bad for a week , so I had to make do, transfering my electrical station to the kitchen as my two and half year old daughter requires a bit of supervision. So I drilled and cut, and made fire, and made noises of satifaction, and many noises of confusion. In between all of this I managed to 1/2 dad, Because Puppy dog pals, or Paw patrol was running a marathon.

Here's the results of putting used relays and pigtails in some sort of arrangement. I can replace the relays and pigtails later and make it a bit more tidy. But for now..











Fancy fuse cover.











I ran out of loom so i ended up just zip tieing all the wires in a bundle on the fender. I will clean that up with loom later on. But for now it is much better than it was. I was worried about moisture and things like tools landing on terminals.. But thats is where the battery and stock ignitor live, as well as cooling fan relay. As far as tools dropping on it, nothing can happen if key is off. But if key is on and a tool drops on the screws on the power blocks, its gonna pop a fuse. So I think I will make a clear plastic cover , as suggested by Kyle Christianson. I checked my datalogs, map sensor still bounces around about 2 tenths to 1 tenth kpa. Everything else is dead on flat, and steady.

The three major problems I found.. . All my fault. I wired the Microsquirt main power to the fuel pump relay out, on the microsquirt as well, Not sure what the hell happened there! Clearly the relay is an output, not an input . Uggh. The battery ground... After I moved battery to back, I grounded it to the back . BIG NO NO. I ran a ground wire all the way back up to the block and grounded it there. Then I moved all my other grounds to the ground on the block. The third thing I did wrong. I ran the microsquirt sensor ground to the innovate wideband ground. The instructions say to do this, but I didnt have good results with it. I also ran the microsquirt ground back to chassis instead of grounding at engine block. The only reason for me to share this is for others to learn my lesson. I also had a voltage amp issue right at wideband gauge, as the circuit was underpowered, causing wideband to go dead often, then pop back on . This caused car to run a bit rough until it came back on.

I put it all back together replaced fuses with higher amperage, and started it. It started so quick it made me jump. Never started so fast before , but really hasnt had trouble starting either. It was like it knew to fire up before i hit the key. Amazingly smooth idle. Sensors are soo smooth now on datalog. Yay me. I fixed a thing I managed to break. I cant believe, A. it ran so well for two years, B. It ran at all, wired like that. Kick self in ass.

This is my best most dependable Volvo to date. . . Never refuses to be pushed.


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Old 08-11-2018, 03:30 PM   #569
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Congrats. I know how hard it is to dig back into old stuff like that.
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Old 08-11-2018, 04:10 PM   #570
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Thanks brother! It was difficult to commit to, but once I committed to doing it , the follow through was easy. As it turned out , it was very therapeutic , and much needed for the craziness going on in my life at the moment!
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:26 PM   #571
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Well , have been busy and forgot to update this . I upgraded my coil packs to Ls coil packs, Holy cow what a difference! They are as advertised, bad ass! Got shocked by one, moaned about it for a few minutes, that was the highlight of that labor. Re wireing from the dsm coil pack and igniter was pretty straight forward.http://www.retrorat.com/2012/01/mega...m7-ls1-ls.html

Great Video I used for research. https://youtu.be/7B7i-gQMGnU


I also remade my fancy wires from summit.





Best quality picture ever...



Results. Amazing. Seriously! Just check out some datalogs.




So a few things to notice from above. Still need to rewire or replace coolant sensor and map sensor, signal is very unstable. Same with the crank sensor. It actually lost sync in the middle of third. Fueling is way off, 120% duty cycle, its way over the limit. So still a few more things to iron out. However, back to the topic. The Ls coils light up the motor so much that it over revs, here it banged off rev limiter three times , maxing at 7564 rpm, with rev limit set at 7400, which its never done, and went from 25psi to 27 spike going into third.The jagged parts of rpm are either too rich or lean. It was a wild ride, but with synch drop it was bitter sweet, as it popped then jumped back up. More to work on, but making progress..

Video of idle and my own crap welding evidence.

https://youtu.be/0100A7eYWwk

Pretty smooth and non dramatic idle. But I can change it dramitically with additional fuel. While it may sound awesome, running it super rich isn't really good for anything but your ears and nose. And even that's , debateable.
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:59 PM   #572
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Now, onto more problems that the Ls coil pack addition created... Since I had the dsm coil pack and ignitor, I also had a tach adapter to go to my pro comp tach and shift light (which is very important , the shifts come up too quick to watch a needle, so I rely on sound and shift light to shift, practicing consistancy ). So, after hooking the tach adapter up several different ways with no success , I went back to microsquirt manuals and files. I used the tach output wire from Microsquirt to the tach light, checked all comp tach manuals, made sure proper wires were cut on tach for my settings. Everything checked out but at idle it appeared I only got half signal. WTH? I finally found the damn tach setting in microsquirt, tunerstudio software, and turned the stupid thing on, from off, and everything works great without a tach adapter of any sort. This also means factory tach will work the same. Same signal can power both of my tachs. Pretty simple ignition setup as well. Stock flywheel sensor, two resistors on sensor going into microsquirt, back out directly to Ls coil packs, then tachometer wire out signal on microsquirt to tach of choice. Way easier ignition woring setup, eliminating longer plug wires, and ignitor! Should have set it up like this the first time... I have more to show on proof of gains, but will be in next post. As I said, I have been busy!





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Old 09-02-2018, 03:12 PM   #573
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I rerouted the belts. My green lawnmower belt started showing its age, so out with it . My goal was to reduce rotating mass as much as possible, and simplify belt routing. Here is what I came up with. No squeal or slip yet, after a few days of driving with ac on.





Trick to get belts on and off, works with a 1/4 10mm socket too.



And done. Two belts! 7508 and 7385 from oriellys. Gates belts. Difficult to put on, worth the effort.

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Old 09-02-2018, 03:48 PM   #574
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On to more fun things. I Unhooked the alcohol after having multiple syphoning problems at idle , when I hade the two jets installed in the intake manifold. There were one way valves in both, but it still pulls almost 20 full inches of vacuum, and pulled alcohol past them, causeing air fuel to dip in the 10's. Car starts camming and chugging, whiff of sweet, in the air and the, intake starts building ice on the outside, no matter how hot it is out! Amazing stuff, alcohol is. Makes me want to hook up third jet on intake on a switch so I can show people, or so I can have an extra quick cool down... So when I dynoed my car, the alcohol was not on! So I wired it back up to battery and added a extra jet, because it needs fuel! Anyway heres my install of two jets right before the butterfly on the infinity q45 throttle body. Don't fret, I will clean up wiring on tps soon, work in progress.







Now the fun part, comparison run without alcohol , way before Microsquirt rewire..Remember that thread I did on how to combat detonation and someone locked it down? Yeah that was dumb.



After alcohol on. Devils own kit with built in map, comes on at 7psi, maxes at 30, i can adjust for different purposes..




Ok so the pics are crappy and I have really good eyes, so in case you don't... Here's the deal. The first datalog shows me at the top of first gear in full boost, 7214 rpm , about to bounce off rev limit,really quick bit of boost and shift. 23.1 psi, 138 degrees in the intake manifold! Remember thats a quick burst.
The second datalog shows the alcohol on, mid way through second gear after full boost in first, 6592 rpm, 23.2 psi, and 94 degrees in the intake manifold. Thats 44 degrees difference , and two degrees colder than it was outside that day. Add ice or freeze alcohol for even better results!

Not only does this increase reliability of the engine, it makes up to 20% more power. Added benefit. Steam cleaned valves, combustion chamber, top of pistons, exhaust.

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Old 09-02-2018, 03:54 PM   #575
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Point is , if you have turbo. You need alcohol. Im gonna let yall (Texas talk) in on a huge secret here, that I realized, and its amazing. Because we are all Volvo people, I offer this tip. Alcohol DOES NOT FREEZE. So, if i need an extra edge for any reason, i have alcohol in the freezer waiting to add. And, if you want you can mix with ice instead of water.. Peak your interest? You have no idea the difference it makes. Why put ice in your intercooler when you can put it right in your engine!!!!! Next time i dyno, not only will the alcohol be on, but best believe it will be very cold with ice in it too! I did not even think about it before dynoing . I also assumed it was on and working, and it was not. Before and after will be fun.

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