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Old 11-09-2017, 07:36 AM   #326
DET17
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Working to wrap up the B21EFI intake. I was short one single vacuum connection port (I will detail what goes WHERE later), and decided to drill & tap 1/8-27 NPT in the blank boss seen in this picture.... for the turbo boost gauge. Clamped to my 35 year old work bench and ready:



The NPT taps typically require a tapered reamer so they can tap easier. I don't own those, but learned that 1/8 can be drilled with a Q drill. $9 later from Fastenal and we drill the tap hole (I used progressive sizes up, in an attempt to keep it "straight" by hand). I used the drill & tap lubricant shown. This location is thick, more than 12mm / 1/2" wall of the intake. Drilled:



Machinist forums list two suggestions for tapping NPT. First, when done proper, you should be able to finger thread 3~4 threads by hand. Next, when the tap is at the proper depth, you should have 6~7 threads of the TAP showing. Tricky work.... making tapered threads in a straight hole. Go SLOW and keep backing the tap to clean the threads cut.... I stopped every 1/4 turn max. The finished threaded hole:



and the installed fitting for my boost gauge (it "feeds" in that direction, most logical source):



Since this is a DD, I'm not spending the coin for powder coat. After a bit of study on the web, I decided to prime & paint the intake with self etching primer (recommended for Aluminium) and "cast aluminum" paint. I can provide PNs to anyone who is interested. This finish has good recommendations across all breeds of intakes.





Next I'll do the FINAL install of all vacuum connection fittings, and finalize the throttle linkage "crank arm & linkage". Looking forward to having this damn thing installed for good.
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Old 11-11-2017, 10:01 PM   #327
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Default 3" Downpipe extension & CAT

Decided to fire up the MIG and stay with it today..... I previously had the 3"DP roughed out with help of a buddy, who TIG welded the stainless flex pipe to the rigid aluminized steel DP. I don't have a TIG yet, and this guy can flat weld, so I farmed out the first step to him.

I purchased a Walker 3" High flow CAT previously, and needed to join it to the DP with a 3" V-band flange & clamp setup. I also need a new stainless bung installed for the AEM wideband sensor. I took some careful dims under the car, so I could size the 3" DP extension. I also wanted to locate the CAT under the factory heat shield, as much as possible, to make use of what was there and keep from baking my carpeting. After a couple rounds of measurements, I fired up the Metabo cutoff wheel and squared off an eleven inch piece of JEGS aluminized 1/16" wall steel exhaust pipe.

To get the V-band flanges over this 3" exhaust pipe, I had to buff off the aluminized coating on the pipe, and then tap the flanges onto the steel pipe. Once the MIG was dialed in, I welded the V-band flanges, one to the DP extension, and the other to the CAT inlet pipe.

Here is the DP extension with CAT roughed into position:





Well I'm glad now for the flex pipe extension... the 3" DP was slightly off target on the route of the exhaust pipe. You can see the slight angle change to hit to original path of the exhaust:



This last pic shows the original exhaust mount which originates near the AW71 rear mount. I don't think I'm going to use that one, as it doesn't seem substantial enough for the weight of the 3 inch DP and mating pipes with CAT. I'm considering to use one of the crossmember bolts to support a custom exhaust mount. I'll have to dimension this carefully, and next round of exhaust work I should have the custom mount to carry the weight of the CAT.

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Old 11-20-2017, 10:48 PM   #328
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Default AC condenser install

While my original '92 AC condenser didn't have any leaks in it, there was accumulated damage & blockage caused by thousands of gravel & sand bits. I searched for awhile for NOS, but couldn't locate any. I finally decided to purchase a NISSEN replacement #94165.... not an ideal solution (Taiwan), but an acceptable solution. Here is the front view of the nice new condenser installed:



The unit took some persuasion to get installed. The do88 intercooler is considerably thicker than the original unit. With the AC condenser installing back into the factory spot, I was worried there was going to be a space collision. There WAS, but I was able to overcome it.

The pass. side NISSENs mount had to be flattened (vice and hammer) so to project the mounting pin further aft. The OE setup has a W-fold in the steel mount for rigidity..... however this can't be retained and reach the original mounting holes. Have a look at these mounts, and you will see the attachment plate screw heads are in direct contact with the do88 IC.

Here is the reworked pass. side mount, and screw collisions:





Here see the drivers side mount, and screw heads in contact:



The top of the do88 IC also needed drilled to create the attachment points to the radiator. This wasn't very difficult, as the IC is made of aluminum. I'm glad to have this bit of work behind me...... and am busy rounding up all the O-rings and other bits necessary to reassemble the AC system completely.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:24 PM   #329
DET17
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Default 3 inch DP details

Working to wrap up the new 3inch down pipe.

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount band clamp.

I thought about sectioning the original stainless strap and welding in a plate to increase the diameter to 3". Decided it was excessive work (considering what I've got left to do), if I could just find a band clamp of the proper size.

eBay to the rescue:



These 3" band clamps are clones of the original "Accuseal" versions. Certainly Chinese copies, but they had the same design concept as the originals. I stripped out the funky custom bolt, and tried to fit the unit. Wouldn't clear the BH stud (12mm), so I had to break out the Makita die grinder and my carbide bit. Thankfully there was quite a bit of unused area in the doubled over "hoop" portion of the clamp, so I slotted her out to the safe limit. Back into position, and this time it appears it will go. Took some tricky clamping with a pair of needle nose vice grips, but it clears that mounting stud. Found a metal 12mm flanged locknut (no NYLOCK for this application) and bolted her together.

Very pleased with the outcome.... a rock solid support of the 3" DP:







With the band support complete, I pulled the DP back out so my machinist buddy can TIG weld the last section behind the flex pipe. Once done I'll thermal tape the top section of the DP to keep the heat soak off my AC lines & filter/dryer, and will mount the rascal (hopefully) for the last time.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:00 AM   #330
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Now that is a good fix. Do you have a link, where they sell them? Just like that.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:27 AM   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachee View Post
Now that is a good fix. Do you have a link, where they sell them? Just like that.
http://www.normaamericasds.com/brand/torca

P/Ns in the PDF, eBay search will find them for you.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:44 AM   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachee View Post
Now that is a good fix. Do you have a link, where they sell them? Just like that.
Will definitely be copy/pasting this into my car also, especially since I still need a downpipe brace. Thanks again.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:05 AM   #333
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Thank you, very much ! :-)
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:28 AM   #334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount
If you're running the standard Mitisubishi turbo, sure its fine. If you're running a T3/T4 turbo, it is wise to upgrade the studs on manifold. Have people run turbos without upgrading studs? Yes, but it doesn't mean you should. Its very simple to do. In additional to installing larger studs, you should fabricate a band/bracket so that it mounts to bell housing. Using a flex section in the down pipe also helps relieve some stress that is put on the down pipe during normal operation. Of which you have done and it looks excellent.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:05 PM   #335
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Looks good! I did the same thing on my 16T dp and it holds up great .
(well...mine doesn't look as good...but it works, lol.)
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:00 PM   #336
DET17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white855T View Post
If you're running the standard Mitisubishi turbo, sure its fine. If you're running a T3/T4 turbo, it is wise to upgrade the studs on manifold. Have people run turbos without upgrading studs? Yes, but it doesn't mean you should. Its very simple to do. In additional to installing larger studs, you should fabricate a band/bracket so that it mounts to bell housing. Using a flex section in the down pipe also helps relieve some stress that is put on the down pipe during normal operation. Of which you have done and it looks excellent.
I'm not planning to run any calcs to verify their strength; certainly the cast iron is the fuse. My TD04 turbine housing came with clearance holes for M8s, not M10. I don't know how heavy the larger turbos are and don't intend to go larger on the DD. Thanks for the 7cm flat flange housing you sold me, you can see it will go to good use!
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:12 PM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
Working to wrap up the new 3inch down pipe.

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount band clamp.

I thought about sectioning the original stainless strap and welding in a plate to increase the diameter to 3". Decided it was excessive work (considering what I've got left to do), if I could just find a band clamp of the proper size.

eBay to the rescue:



These 3" band clamps are clones of the original "Accuseal" versions. Certainly Chinese copies, but they had the same design concept as the originals. I stripped out the funky custom bolt, and tried to fit the unit. Wouldn't clear the BH stud (12mm), so I had to break out the Makita die grinder and my carbide bit. Thankfully there was quite a bit of unused area in the doubled over "hoop" portion of the clamp, so I slotted her out to the safe limit. Back into position, and this time it appears it will go. Took some tricky clamping with a pair of needle nose vice grips, but it clears that mounting stud. Found a metal 12mm flanged locknut (no NYLOCK for this application) and bolted her together.

Very pleased with the outcome.... a rock solid support of the 3" DP:







With the band support complete, I pulled the DP back out so my machinist buddy can TIG weld the last section behind the flex pipe. Once done I'll thermal tape the top section of the DP to keep the heat soak off my AC lines & filter/dryer, and will mount the rascal (hopefully) for the last time.
great idea! going to use it.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:25 PM   #338
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So, I was trying to steal your bracket idea for your Bosch coil, and I tried to buy the misumi tall hex nuts you suggested. I found them with your part number, but I have to say what a difficult website to navigate. Eventually, it told me they do not sell to the general public, and I had to be a business. I didn't have any luck finding anything similar on Google either. Any suggestions?

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Old Today, 07:41 AM   #339
DET17
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I ordered mine via our local MOTION Industries rep. (who sells Millions a year to my company). I'd suggest going with the PN to your local FASTENAL and see if they can get them for you..... betting YES, they can.
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