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Old 12-06-2017, 12:51 AM   #1076
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Is the LS4 oil pump one of the high flow variants (I'm guessing it is, since that engine had DoD)? There are some horror stories where under sustained high RPMs, the higher flow pumps drain the sump on smaller pans, on engines where the extra flow isn't required (ie, non DoD). If you're just drag racing and cruising, it probably won't cause a problem...

It's worth noting that since the crank pulley comes off to do the cam and oil pump, you'll want to figure out which offset pulley is going back on, by the time you're reassembling. I don't think there's any downside to using one of the closer pulleys, if you're already replacing all the FEAD bracketry and the water pump.

ICT Billet makes a clone of the Camaro brackets that maintains the truck pulley offset: http://www.ictbillet.com/ls-truck-al...s3-billet.html. Kinda wish I'd done it myself, rather than adapting the truck brackets, as it'd make for more Volvo-like PS hose routing and lengths (I coiled up a high pressure hose and shortened an old early low pressure hose). My early engine had a type 2, identical to my Volvo pump, but clocked differently and running a serpentine pulley - the later ones use a different fitting for the high pressure line.

If you adapt the truck harness and keep mostly stock routing, you'll need to extend the alternator wiring for the lower position. DIYAutoTune sells one for Gen 3s, but at some point the Gen4 switches to a different alternator connector/pinout.

There are kits around to mount Sanden 508 compressors (which the 240 original is), and the original lines will connect, although they usually wind up on the passenger side and would be better shortened than looped up. Unless you have an early (red-blue connector, 2002 and earlier) or 03-07 van ECU, you won't be running the AC through the ECU, you'll be keeping your Volvo wiring and using some aftermarket module if you wanted to do high-RPM cutoff. If you're gonna do AC ever, I'd suggest at least going ahead and getting a bracket and doing some test fits with your old Volvo compressor, or you're almost definitely going to make it impossible to do without major reworks of *something* down the line. Two notes about 91+ AC: you'll need to buzz off the rear mounting tab from the passenger coil bracket as it is extremely friendly with one of the hard lines going into the firewall bulkhead, and while it won't apply to you because turbo, the hard line on the passenger frame rail will interfere with an NA exhaust setup.

The truck intake will just *barely* clear the hood. It will not clear a strut tower brace (flashback to a certain 16V intake, lol). If you do an LS6 intake, you might need to do the water pump as well - at some point the truck engines got a water pump with a different neck that will barely clear the throttle body on a car intake, where the early ones will interfere (as did mine). The LS6 intake will not dramatically out-flow the truck intake, you would switch to it purely for the sake of aesthetics, or to clear a strut tower brace. If you do go to an LS6 intake, you'll need to do some simple mods and add spacers to use the truck injectors, but that probably doesn't apply, because turbo. If you're swapping injectors, the electrical connectors on the truck injectors are different from literally anything else, just clip 'em and crimp new ends on.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:54 AM   #1077
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I figure I'm wide open on the accessories. The Hummer this came from got hit in the front, and the truck crank pulley already had a chunk out of it big enough to be a problem (not just the lip, into the first ribs). And when I spin the water pump the bell has a little bit of a wobble. And at 140K miles I should probably replace it anyhow. And it came without PS pump or alternator as well. So about the only thing I have that is usable is the truck bracket. Might as well do Corvette or Camaro - no real downside to tucking things in closer to the front.

This also came with no harness or ECU. I was planning on MS-ing it anyhow. Possibly a roll-my-own using my MS3X (like I did with the 16V in it now, make up a complete harness after getting pigtails for everything), or if I'm feeling lazy perhaps one of those pre-built LSx MS3Pro ECU/harness packages.

Here's a nice 'intake shootout' article: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/20-ls...ifolds-tested/

The LS6 manifold is barely better than the truck manifold, it's a waste of money if you're trying to improve performance, but I was more going for the clearance and being able to still use my strut bar.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:53 PM   #1078
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Yeah, going full green-field there is a pretty big win - I tried to keep as much truck stuff as possible to keep costs down, and it's really do nothing but bite me, and make me question myself when I've had opportunity to change them (ie, when I pulled the engine and had the front pulley off to change the oil pump - but stayed truck offset because I had a new L99 water pump).

Another fun possibility with the Camaro bracket setup - the clocking and mounting is the same between the ABS era Volvo and the Camaro, so you could chunk a serpentine pulley on the Volvo PS pump, and use it on the LSx.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:10 AM   #1079
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Cam, lifters, timing gear, oil pump,Holley oil pan all on. Cleaned the head mating surface, put the head studs in. Opened my GM perf head gasket 'set', only one gasket. Hrrrmmm... Nope, auction says two, plus a collection of one single item doesn't really deserve to be called a 'set'. Contacted the eBay seller.

Up next, dealing with the heads. 3 broken flush exhaust bolts. One had a stub poking out about 1/4 inch, I soaked it with some PBLaster for a while, got some vice grips on it, and even before I tried to twist it, it broke off flush just from slightly nudging it while clamping the vice grips. Old break, apparently it managed to break in two places, down in the block, and at the bolt head. Only it hung on by a sliver down by the block.

Sort of 50/50 on breaking out the welder and trying to get those things out myself, or just taking it to a machine shop. I'd rather not screw up the heads, not sure how tricky welding to the broken bolt is down in an aluminum hole. But then again, these heads aren't really hard to find.

Also, bought a trans - 2007 G35 sedan. It's a version later than the CD009 - the JK400. Not as much about them on the internets, but should work as well as a CD009 does.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:24 AM   #1080
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I had $200 in my heads, getting a couple broken bolts out, surfacing, cleaning, and re-seating the valves.
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Old 12-28-2017, 06:23 PM   #1081
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Parts keep arriving. I have a bellhousing, a flywheel, an EFI Source Gold Box (I got lazy, what can I say) and this showed up today:


It's the JK40C - the version after the CD009 - 370Z 6 speed manual trans.

I have an adapter kit coming, after I cut off the bellhousing on the trans, this will bolt right up and with the exception of a special clutch disc, it uses all stock LS1/T56 Camaro parts - bellhousing, starter, flywheel, pressure plate, pilot bearing, clutch slave.
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Old 12-29-2017, 04:30 PM   #1082
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Nice!!!! The gold box is great
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Old 01-05-2018, 03:38 PM   #1083
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I tried welding the studs to get them out of the head - I don't think my crappy MIG welder has enough zap. Plus it was something like 5 degrees outside while I was trying it. Spent about 30 minutes trying to get something solidly stuck to the studs, nothing. It would break off each time. At least it didn't seem to do anything at all to the aluminum? I finally gave up and took it to my favorite machine shop./ They said they were a real PITA - the broken ends usually come right out but these were stuck in there pretty good. $80 and they're all gone now.

Trans adapter kit from Collins arrives today, a bunch of manifolds and tubes and a turbo arrives tomorrow.

That's about all the major parts. I still need to get some an alt/PS/wp on it. Probably go with Camaro style. And a starter.

I'm having slight buyers remorse on the trans kit after seeing this one:
https://www.lojkits.com/products/350...ission-adapter

With that kit you can use an un-altered Nissan trans, and you have a smaller bellhousing to deal with. I'll have to chop the front end of my trans and probably BFH at the firewall a bit to fit the larger T56 bellhousing.
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Old 01-05-2018, 03:42 PM   #1084
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sounds like $80 well spent!
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Old 01-05-2018, 11:40 PM   #1085
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First class.
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Old 01-07-2018, 02:54 PM   #1086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
I'm having slight buyers remorse on the trans kit after seeing this one:
https://www.lojkits.com/products/350...ission-adapter

With that kit you can use an un-altered Nissan trans, and you have a smaller bellhousing to deal with. I'll have to chop the front end of my trans and probably BFH at the firewall a bit to fit the larger T56 bellhousing.
I wouldn't sweat it too much - at some point between the 350z and the 370z, they changed bellhousing patterns, and the G35/37 sits in a weird spot between those two, so unless you *really* know your Nissans (the extent of my knowledge is from giving a friend who owns an early 350z with a busted trans a hard time), the hack-off-the-bellhousing style kit is universal between the two.

Edit 1: The BFHing isn't *too* bad with a BFing BFH, and there's less required for the LS bell than the 621/BBC.
Edit 2: The "HR" variant of the VQ35 is when the bellhousing changed, and the LOJ kit is for the pre-HR transmissions... which are more likely to be pre-CD009. Wat?!
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Old 01-07-2018, 08:09 PM   #1087
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Good to hear. Mine def is an HR trans - a JK40C. They're all good, no chance of a bad one with that style. And I get the impression that demand has spiked up on the CD009 boxes but that hasn't *quite* hit the G37/370Z boxes quite yet? I know I got mine for a few hundred less than most 'known' CD009 boxes go, about what you'd pay for an unidentifiable (through pics) early CD box.
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:55 PM   #1088
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It's still going to be a 16V turbo. Here's the turbo and associated bits:
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Old 01-09-2018, 09:52 PM   #1089
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The hope for the V8 swap is to have more fun and do less wrenching. The MTBF (mean time between failures) on the 16V Volvo motor was just not quite what I wanted it to be. Generally under 5000 miles, something (often the HG) would let go. This last time when I replaced the HG I very carefully checked the block and head, everything is as flat as can be, the Cometic just failed for some reason. Using ARP headstuds as well. This time I installed the Cometic bone dry and torqued it a little higher than spec, we'll see if that holds together.

Ordered a bunch of parts.
- LS7 lifters and trays
- PAC 1218 valve sprangs and retainers
- LS9 cam (so cheap, lol)
- LS4 oil pump
- Holley 302-1 pan and related dipstick/tube
- LS6 headgaskets
- Alper headstuds
- gaskets

Enough to get the motor back together. Next up - deciding on an intake and accessory/waterpump. Not worried about A/C (turbo is going to sit on the passenger side, if there's room, maybe I'll revisit the A/C thing in the future), but I do want PS still. Possibly the Camaro high PS, low alt setup.

Still not sure about the intake either - I have the truck intake that came with the engine, I understand that it will fit under the hood (?), but I'm still pondering an LS6 intake, or possibly something aftermarket. When you're tossing some boost at it a better flowing intake probably isn't really a 'need', but it's sort of a 'want'.

Good luck trying to get the AC in the factory location we found out the hard way. Not sure if the headers you bought will clear. The truck intake will clear the hood, and also we got rid of the truck accessories and bought retro car brackets. We also had clearance issues with the header hitting the alternator.
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Old 01-09-2018, 11:53 PM   #1090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77volvo245 View Post
Good luck trying to get the AC in the factory location we found out the hard way. Not sure if the headers you bought will clear. The truck intake will clear the hood, and also we got rid of the truck accessories and bought retro car brackets. We also had clearance issues with the header hitting the alternator.
How much space did you gain going from truck to car between accessories and e-fan?
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:28 AM   #1091
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It's all about Valves per cylinder Says the guy with a 24 valve V non-6
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Old 01-10-2018, 11:21 AM   #1092
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But nobody ever (never say never) swaps in those 5V Audi motors! 30 valves, sheesh.
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Old 01-10-2018, 11:23 AM   #1093
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Originally Posted by 77volvo245 View Post
Good luck trying to get the AC in the factory location we found out the hard way. Not sure if the headers you bought will clear. The truck intake will clear the hood, and also we got rid of the truck accessories and bought retro car brackets. We also had clearance issues with the header hitting the alternator.
I'm going to worry about A/C long after everything else, and possibly not even then. I'd have to see if there's some place the compressor still fits on and isn't blocked by the turbo and downpipe on the passenger side.

I got a fairly cheap LS6 intake (from Dubai???) - to hopefully make enough room to still use my strut brace.
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Old 01-10-2018, 01:28 PM   #1094
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Holy this those pipes! I need to have you make me some of them.
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Old 01-10-2018, 09:35 PM   #1095
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Heh, I don't have that sort of skill. I've welded up downpipes in the past, but doing that sort of work up there is beyond me.

It's an Ebay manifold kit. Trying to leverage off the popularity of the turbo LS swap marketplace. This is a kit that fits a 240SX. After pondering various more popular targets for turbo LS swaps, I figured that one would have a high likely hood of fitting into a 240 Volvo as is. Worst case, I might need to tweak the crossover pipe or downpipe some. I can do that.
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:38 AM   #1096
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4 > 5 > 3 > 2 /threadjack though you were somewhat asking for it with the "it's still 16v" comment, troll!
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Old 01-11-2018, 07:21 AM   #1097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas240 View Post
How much space did you gain going from truck to car between accessories and e-fan?
You gain 3/4" if you move from the truck to F-body pulley spacing; you gain 1-9/16" if you move from truck to Corvette spacing. Of course, with turbo/crossover piping/etc -- where the accessories end up actually sitting relative to the exhaust bits is probably the bigger issue. Not sure how this kit routes things, but there could be situations where having the accessories further away from the engine (truck mount) makes things better. I don't think John will know until he starts mocking up.
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Old 01-11-2018, 10:13 AM   #1098
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Yeah, I'm wide open on the accessories. My engine came with a chipped/not useable truck crnk pulley and a truck waterpump with a slight wobble. No PS or alternator. And a notchy feeling tensioner. About the only thing in good shape is the truck bracket, and I really don't think I want the alt sitting up that high.

The manifolds I got were built to work with 96-02 Camaro alt/PS, I'll probably end up using that. Although if the Corvette stuff would fit I'd probably use it, might as well tuck things in if I can. I don't think there's any real difference in part prices.

There was a guy in town trying to sell a complete LS1 Camaro accessory set for $300, but the bastid flaked out after a couple of texts.
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Old 01-11-2018, 12:29 PM   #1099
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Old 01-11-2018, 12:44 PM   #1100
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I... don't think Corvette accessories are going to work, lol:

(not my pic, but the same kit using Camaro accessories - not really any room to move that alternator back)

Camaro stuff it is!

And... some different plug wires.

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