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Old 02-14-2010, 11:40 PM   #76
Jerd
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If i buy another car for a DD i will be doing pretty much the same exact stuff. Awesome, simplistic, and clean build. Keep up the great work! You're going to love the cam! Big difference. But i do have to warn you it is in essence like the t25 vs the 15g that cam will have a lot less low end power but much more up top. It will change you're driving style. Also after the cam your car would benefit from a 3" downpipe.

What plugs are you running and how old? I changed my plugs the other day and was surprised to find how much smoother my car ran.

And what octane of fuel are you using?
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:43 AM   #77
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If i buy another car for a DD i will be doing pretty much the same exact stuff. Awesome, simplistic, and clean build. Keep up the great work! You're going to love the cam! Big difference. But i do have to warn you it is in essence like the t25 vs the 15g that cam will have a lot less low end power but much more up top. It will change you're driving style. Also after the cam your car would benefit from a 3" downpipe.
What plugs are you running and how old? I changed my plugs the other day and was surprised to find how much smoother my car ran.
And what octane of fuel are you using?
Word on the low end/top end difference as far as the cam goes, I am expecting just as you say. The plugs are about a year old, that's about when I arrived at Stage Zero. I remember doing a lot of searching here and ended up installing NGK brand, I don't remember what type, I think I stayed away from the platinum but I can't remember. I just looked at them a few days ago, they are nice and tan and wearing as they should be. A 3" DP is part of the plan but I want to lose the conical turbine housing and mate the DP to a flat flange housing because it looks to flow way better than the conical.
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:43 AM   #78
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Added a few pics to the NPR install section, apparently my install is something to shoot for. I've seen a couple installs that looked just as good though, there's a Green car somewhere that looks just as clean.

Last edited by 700volts; 02-16-2010 at 12:48 AM..
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:21 PM   #79
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Haven't been in to see this thread before, but... Everything looks great! Except the "trick" with the springs. Seriously though, car looks good, I like what you've done with it so far and am excited to see it on the dyno soon!

We need to have a work day to get rid of your lowering job and do it the "right" way by cutting coils. Haha.
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:21 PM   #80
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...
Well, my clutch failed the 4th gear stomp test this morning, it slipped, so I won't be on the dyno. :(
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Old 02-22-2010, 04:14 PM   #81
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Get it replaced! Or turn down the boost!
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:54 PM   #82
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Great job on that sweet ti, just curious, what size and type of clamping did you use on the coil srings to drop it, are the clamps just around 2 coils?
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Old 03-20-2010, 03:12 PM   #83
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Great job on that sweet ti, just curious, what size and type of clamping did you use on the coil srings to drop it, are the clamps just around 2 coils?
I'm not supposed to talk about it
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Old 03-20-2010, 03:17 PM   #84
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So anyway the 15G swap went very well but,

I noticed when I got it all on I could spin the cold side a little with a bit of force, I was OK with that but it seems to be getting more loose. I know I got the ring clip seated nicely. Any one have this same problem. The housing doesn't really move by itself and it could only move an inch or two in either direction anyway but it's making vibrating sound and it's bugging me.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:20 PM   #85
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The fan blade on the cold side isn't moving freely? It's bound to happen when you reclock the housings, because the coldside housing can easily be put on at a bit of an angle and won't sit completely flat, even with the ring clip. What I did was put the coldside on, tried to spin, felt which side of the housing it was hitting, and tapped that side with a rubber mallet. You'll just have to keep tapping it until it spins freely. Should only take a couple of minutes.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:20 PM   #86
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Actually now that I read it again I see you're talking about the cold side housing not the cold side fan.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:04 AM   #87
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The fan blade on the cold side isn't moving freely? It's bound to happen when you reclock the housings, because the coldside housing can easily be put on at a bit of an angle and won't sit completely flat, even with the ring clip. What I did was put the coldside on, tried to spin, felt which side of the housing it was hitting, and tapped that side with a rubber mallet. You'll just have to keep tapping it until it spins freely. Should only take a couple of minutes.
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Actually now that I read it again I see you're talking about the cold side housing not the cold side fan.
Made me laugh when you said fan. I guess you could call it a fan. BTW I like the new wheels.
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:57 PM   #88
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I'm not supposed to talk about it
I did it to mine yesterday while putting my summer rims and tires back on, Auto Palace had the stuff so I thought i'd give it a try, pretty pleased with the outcome.....
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:39 PM   #89
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I did it to mine yesterday while putting my summer rims and tires back on, Auto Palace had the stuff so I thought i'd give it a try, pretty pleased with the outcome.....
Auto Palace?? Is that a place you guys have in the US? Kinda curious as to what this stuff is. Looks like the lowering is decent. Got a website for the parts?
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:59 AM   #90
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Google this....... lowering spring clamps dangerous
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:30 AM   #91
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#9 PROJECT - NEW SPRINGS AND STRUTS/SHOCKS:
*Out with the old

*In with the new

BEFORE -

AFTER -


The front is now down where it should be, the rear came up a bit but it looks right to me. Went with IPD lowering springs and Sachs Turbo Gas shocks/struts to keep the daily ride not too stiff. I can't even make a decent comparison because the original shocks were so toasted. All I can say is it feels like a new car. I have a few bushings under there that need replacing so add those to the list.




Another shot messin' around...
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:37 AM   #92
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Looks great, and I'm sure you feel much more confident bombing around in it now!

By the way, if you wanted, you could probably get away with chopping off the bottommost dead coil of those there progressive rear springs... It'll drop the car less than the height of the coil diameter... But, then again, it really is a perfect daily driver setup, because you have the height in the back to get a full load without issues.

Nice!
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:43 AM   #93
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looks great man, need to respray those bumpers though
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Old 04-24-2010, 01:39 PM   #94
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"Re"spraying would require them to have been painted in the first place, lol.

I tried the heatgun trick on my car for a couple of seconds, worked a little bit but the gun shut down before I got very far.
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:12 PM   #95
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I'm thinking about using the dye that IPD sells. I think it's called 'Showroom New' in grey. Anyone have any input on that stuff?
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:12 PM   #96
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.
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:36 PM   #97
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used showroom new on an 850 i had. works great, they sell it in grey and black. i did both trims on the f/r bumpers and had plenty left.
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Old 04-24-2010, 04:43 PM   #98
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I think mine are supposed to be grey, but way less oxidized.
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Old 04-24-2010, 10:39 PM   #99
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they look so much better black
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Old 04-24-2010, 10:50 PM   #100
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I tend to agree...but then the bumpers would be black and the grill would still be grey. That stuff probably wouldn't work on a hard plastic grill, I'd hate to mickey mouse the grill with a coat of black paint.
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